Macular Degeneration

[Rheaopt]

I have a customer that takes a lot of outdoor pictures through a high powered lens. He is worried about the amount of concentrated light and UV that comes through the lens. He has a family history for Macular. He wants me to make a lens for the eyepiece on the back of the camera. Will this lens with UV 400 be enough to make a difference? If not what would you do? Is there anything that can be done.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

[chip anderson]

Coase all dem dips n chips, claims to blok 100% of dem YOu VEE Waves. Onst U done blocked 100% how much mo' U needs? His glass lenses and coatings in the damn camera are blockin out more than you could ever do with the most coated poly available.
Jus takes da po mainn's money and move on.

Chip

[optigrrl]

cut and paste error

[optigrrl]

I have a customer that takes a lot of outdoor pictures through a high powered lens. He is worried about the amount of concentrated light and UV that comes through the lens. He has a family history for Macular. He wants me to make a lens for the eyepiece on the back of the camera. Will this lens with UV 400 be enough to make a difference? If not what would you do? Is there anything that can be done.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Steve

"Protective" filters - not just a ploy of the greedy camera salesman.
Camera lenses are made of relatively soft glass. It's easy to scratch them, even in the act of cleaning them. Repairs or replacement of lenses can be very expensive.
Filters are relatively cheap. Many photographers put a glass UV (ultraviolet) filter on every lens. This keeps the lens from getting scratched. If a rim gets dented, it's the filter instead of the lens rim. We've seen many lenses saved by a relatively cheap filter.
The UV filter does not affect visible light. It will filter out some ultraviolet light (to which film is sensitive.) Unwanted UV can make the sky look too light and make pictures taken at a distance look hazy. As long as the UV filter is well made and clean, it will not degrade image quality while it protects your expensive lens from damage. I do suggest taking off the UV filter if you use another, because every air-to-glass surface can cause reflections.

PROTECTIVE AND UV ABSORBING FILTERS:

• UV Protector - Protects lens from dust, moisture, scratches, and breakage.
• SKY 1-A - Popular general use protection filter. Absorbs significant amount of UV light. Slightly warm- tinted for better colors. Useful when shooting outdoors in shade and on overcast days.
• Haze 1 - Reduces excessive blue haze caused by UV light by absorbing 71% of UV. Great all-around UV control.
• Haze 2 - Absorbs all UV light; reduces haze; maintains color and image clarity. Best for high altitude and marine scenes.

[Chris Ryser]

Camera lenses are made of relatively soft glass

Not having worried about camera lens quallity and construction in years I just compared the weight of my 30 year old LEICA Reflex 90mm tele lens and my much newer Olympia electronic camera. The old Leica lens alone weighs twice the weight of the whole new camera.

Therefore the lenses must be made with CR39 which the require UV protection to at least up to 360nm.

[chip anderson]

Chris:
I'll be willing to be that the camera lenses on anything that cost over $100.00 (and also be that if the boy is a pro, his stuff cost a lot more than this) that the lenses are all glass. Will also bet that they all have multiple coatings that filter out more stuff than you can immagine including U.V. with the exception of cameras equipt with lenses for photographing U.V., and in these I'll bet the eyepiece is equipped with U.V. filters. Also bet that the glass used in the lenses is not soft, what is soft is the lens coatings (u.v. and other filters).
And no, I don't know anything about camera's, until digitals came out and I could alter pictures with a computer, I couldn't even take a decent picture.
Chip

[Chris Ryser]

And no, I don't know anything about camera's, until digitals came out and I could alter pictures with a computer, I couldn't even take a decent picture.
Chip

Chip.....................Cameras used to be my hobby including the results you could produce with them. That was back in the 50s when I worked in fathers optical business, which had besides the optical and contact lenses, also a photo department, microscopes, geodaesic instruments, barometers and thermometers.

Opticians actually were a lot more diversified at the time and then they scaled down during the mid 60's to visual products and most dropped the camera stuff.

Did all you guy's and girls kmow that if you buy a barometer in a store, it has to be adjusted and compensated to the exact altitude where it is going to be stationed.
If you adjust a barometer to the ground floor of the Empire State Building and then move it to the top floor you will get false readings ?

It actually would have to be re-adjusted for the new altitude and air pressure.
:D

[misty optic]

I agree with other posters that UV should not be an issue. However you could use a "blue blocker" filter on the eyepiece if the guy is really worried. Troulble is is will distort his perception of colour through the viewfinder and he might find this a nuisance

[optical24/7]

Why not take a uv meter and measure the amount coming through the eye piece?

[fjpod]

UV through a camera lens system such as you describe is absolutely not a problem...but if the patient/photographer spends a lot of time outdoors, not wearing a hat, or not wearing corrective lenses, then he/she should be urged to wear plano or Rx lenses that block UV.

He is infinitely more in danger of ambient UV that enters his eyes than from UV coming through the camera.