Suppose Wally Mart, Lens Crafters and Sam's Club should read this post. We could be ruined. For God's sake don't tell them how to make a cable conversion. And think what would happen if they read the instructions on the inside of the Lux appointment book!
Never, never, ever put pressure on those "darn" rhinestones when adjusting chassis or temple. The "darn" things will shatter, instantly revealing that they are not diamonds or even cubic zirconia.
cutting lens smaller than the frame,insert a nylon in between also works for me,so far no costumer coming back noticing the nylon,its good though temporarily :-):)
problem with wave on bifocals any tips or ideas ?
GREATLY APPRECIATED FELLAS
can you be a lot more specific
Ok, I was asked to put this attachment in this column, so here goes.
After attending the Vegas show, I was amazed at the questions we got from dispensing opticians and lab personnell, so it prompted me to write these money and time saving tips to help out.
Good reading!!
haven't seen this tip yet.....if you need to put the markings back on a PAL lens but can't find the laser markings and don't have an illuminated PAL identifier---"fog" the lenses---run them under cold water a moment, dry, then hold over a steaming cup of coffee, hot water,(or more easily just use your breath)....usually the two laser markings will stand right out if you hold them up to fluorescent light...
Chimperial Optical-what a great place to work!
Take a sharp knife and cut the string at the lower hole coming through the frame and re string it. You may also stick a push pin through to raise it up some and insert the SMALL THIN ribbon before cutting it.Originally Posted by Jo
When selling frames such as tortoise shell and demi amber, have the patient recieve the one they looked at on the display. These two frame colors because of there mottled look tend to have the colors in different places in every one that you look at. Patient will swear you gave them the wrong frame if you do not.
dispensing photochromics
when dispensing transitions or sunsensors the last thing after checking the patients near and distance vision tell the patient you would like to activate the lens for them take them out in the sun get them real dark this this tells the patient their lens will get nice and darkundefinedundefinedundefined
I find completely adjusting the frames including the temples at the time of the sale is easier and better then waiting for the finished product. One reason is this will give you the most accurate measurements, especially with your bifocal wearers.
The second reason is a lot of the modern day materials have a tendency to move somewhat from the original adjustment. Usually when the patient recieves the finished product they expect to put them on and all is perfect.
How many times have you heard a patient reply, there loose, there tight, etc. thats because they expect them to be ready to go.
I find the closer i have the adjustment to start with, the easier it becomes at the delivery stage. Also if the glasses have been laying around and feel a little cold to you, run the frame warmer over them for a few seconds, and have the frame feel just slightly warm. The patients will feel much better about the warm touch as opposed to having a cold piece of metal on their skin
Good for you Harry:
However all the labs I use can completely undo all the adjustments I make. The move the nosepads in to aid in mounting lenses, expecially high minus. They distort the frame and miss-align temples, I guess to get the lenses in.
You must do you your own lab work.
I just alighn things well enough to get the seg.ht. measured.
Chip
I have read that in Europe, you can caliper the temple width and have the frame come back 5mm more narrow than the measurement for correct pressure. Here you get laughed at when you ask where you can get such a caliper.
Last edited by chip anderson; 01-28-2005 at 10:42 PM. Reason: The P.S. of course
Yikes!! What have I got myself into???? Just learning a new drill machine and putting 3 piece mounts together. I've been in optics since 1978 and just now having to learn to mount these things. I'm having trouble in the area where you have to get the prongs (in the nasal piece) started in the plastic bushings. I can't seem to hold enough pressure to get it started and then finish with the pliers. It falls loose and out by the time I reach for the pliers. I feel like I'm all thumbs!?
Anybody with tips of any kind, PPLease, post it. I'd be most gracious.
Thank Ya,
Carolyn:drop:
Can this thread be revised?
This thread is very informative but VERY long!
Any chance we can revise it to sub divide it to relate to general problems on rimless frames, screws, tools, frame adjustments etc?
The thread will go on forever in my opinion as long as there are eyeglasses!
i did not see this one but when eding a high plus in a frame that has a flat top there is a tendancy for the lens to pop out. I founf that by edging on the flatest base curve this solves the problem.
Here is a thought to add to that. How many times have you given a customer their new glasses and they say that they feel loose or something (before the adjustment). Now if they are adjusted before the sale is finished when the finished product is picked up the customer gets a very comfortable pair of glasses on first try on. I think it adds to the perceived value.
For Life: I agree with your last post with a small proviso: Most labs can completely destroy your predelivery adjustment efforts. Little things like swinging nose pads to center to facilitate easier lens mounting. Failing to taper the inside edge of lenses to allow you to adjust nose pads at your end without removing a thick lens and tapering the lens yourself. These things and others can sometimes lead one to feel that pre-adjustment (except for the purpose of seg. measurments, etc.) Is a somewhat fruitless endevor.
Chip
True - I did forget to write that the post adjustment is still extremely important.
I think any bit of extra comfort can make a customer feel 100 percent better about their glasses.
at a guess, i'm going to presume this is a wave just above the seg...
and now having worked in a lab, i can say its apparantly normal, for a mm an a bit, just obove the seg line... any more than that, is a display of the bad work of lab staff
There are quite a few tools around now for doing this, but here is a basic technique that always works for me. I don't know how many years I worked at trying to line up the temple and frame front barrels for screw insertion before an oldtimer showed me this trick. You take a pair of half round pliers and insert the point of the pliers into the temple barrel. Put them in the glass beads in the frame warmer and pull on the temple end to catch a glass bead in the hinge. Now screw on the temple, flex the spring, voila, the bead falls out.
If the lens a plastic material, i.e. CR-39 polycarb etc...,try putting it in the salt pan for 20 or 30 minutes. The wave may disappear. It's probably caused from the blocking procedure.
Don
except for the coating crazing??
I never had that problem even if I forgot them. There was also an oven for hard coating lenses that was used, too. I don't remember the exact temperature but it was under 200 degrees if memory serves.
Don
On Zeiss Lotutec coatings affix the sticky plastic to the glazing pad rather than the lens, and trim any excess before padding if you have an edger with feeler arms.
Nose pads on High Hyperopes and Myopes
On many precriptions with thick lenses, either high hyperopes displaced nasally or high myopes one gets the job back from the lab and finds that nose pad adjustment is impossible. Always calculate the inner edge thickness and see if you will have room for this. If not have the lab taper the nasal edge of the lens (otherwise you will have to do this while the patient waits or the frame won't fit.
Chip
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