Frame color

[rwallner]

Does anyone know of a good source for enamel/epoxy/??? to color (paint) frames? (my preference would be with an airbrush, since my brush skills are marginal)
I dont mean touch up, instead complete coloring for a custom made frame. I have tried powder coating and pen plating (even dip plating on "gold or silver etc") results are marginal. We have all seen the "inexpensive" frames that the enamel or "coloring" peels of rather quickly, especially where there is any flex or torsion in the frame (not looking to make that same mistake).
Seems like the "big guys" have the process pretty well refined, but obviously are not looking to give away information.
Thanks in advance for any help!
rwallner@frontiernet.net

[harry a saake]

Yes, contact Jerry Huang at eyetailorjerry@yahoo.com

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi,


enamel/epoxy is not good for skin contact.

Try Polyurethe base. You can find it in your local paint shop for cars.

Good luck

Jerry

[rwallner]

Thanks for the recommendation. Do you think it is necessary to use a primer first on a bare metal frame? Is there a particular brand of paint that works best?

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi rwallner,

There are many kind of primer available for better adhesion purpose. However, I use primer only on the bigger object, such as motorcycle tanks, fenders...etc.

It is not necessary to use commercial primer on small items such as eyeglasses frames or jewelry. I would like to share my experience with you here how I do it as below:

1. Good eyewear finishing requires good metal POLISH and PLATING.
Good polish = no polish mark and no solder can be seen on the metal.
Good plating = no burning mark (over charge from eletrical plating), no peal off (caused by poor surface cleaning). No uneven plating color = caused by poor circulation of plating solution in the tank. Good plating base = use expensive plating solution. Example: I will plate a micron of Rodium over nickel to bring out its luster and won't get tarnish.

2. Dust/oil/moisture free environment is required.

3. Use a good jig to hold the frame. I always handle the frame with surgical glove on because I don't want to leave finger prints on the frame after plating, ultrasoic cleaning and metal surface cleaning process. Use a jig to hold the frame on the "hidden area" such as nose pad arm pocket hole.

4. Spray a thin layer of PU base clear coat first at 360 degree by rotating the jig and cure in the oven at 45 C (depends on the paint material) to achieve 1/2 way try! and leave it air cool down.------I ASSUME THIS IS THE PRIMER COATING WE ARE TALKING ABOUT! Please note: 1/2 way try means the coating is not watery neither too hard. Can feel "sticky" by finger touch on the JIG ONLY!

5. Now it is the time to COLOR the frame. Mix color pigment to PU base paint (must he thinning) in maximum 10 : 1 ratio. Make sure to to use fine mash to filter out pigment residue. Spray on the frame ONCE again at 360 degree by rotating the jig. Please note: Soak the shinny metal tea spoon in the mixed paint container to check for color matching first before you spray! Shinny metal tea spoon look pretty much the same metal base color as the frame.

6. Now, cure the fame again in the oven at 45 C (temperature varies depends on the paint material) to achieve 1/2 way try. Remove it from oven and leave to air cool again.

7. Once I am satified with color matching, I will spray another layer of clear coat over (either shinny or matt) at this time and cure the frame 100% dry in the oven----final seal!

If you are using dipping or "tinting" method, Ignore #5 and dip your frame in the tinting tank for coloring/color matching after #7.

I like "House of Kolor" because the offer good color and the paint material is very durable after years of testing. They are available from: www.eastwoodco.com

Forget about frame coloring! I make more money from motorcycle tank spray painting!

Woop! Am I talking too much again??:D

Jerry

[rwallner]

You are awesome! Thank you so much for the information. That is exactly what I was looking for. Neat to have someone with your experience reply to my request. I dont plan on doing too terribly much of if, but every now and again someone has an odd ball job they need me to do. My "frame building" skills are excellent, but my coloring has always been a weak area. I am familiar with eastwood as well (order much of my car stuff from them) I never gave the automotive stuff a thought. Anyway, thanks again for your help!

[JERRY HUANG]

This is also a great technique for coloring titanium frames without plating!

I always use a transparent air sealed device (create an oxygen-free environment) to inject Argon gas from the top and suck out Oxygen from the bottom when I need to repair, weld or build a titanium frame.

I always polish titanium parts/frame with SILK buff.

Clean real good without seeing any welding mark.

Detail clean the part with gloves on.

Spray clean PU coating 2 times and start tinting the frame (color matching) after the coating is completely dry and cold.

Yellow Dye is very similar to gold plating color.
The clear coat itself is similar to silver plating color.
Black or grey dye may replace gun metal color plating.

Yeah....! I think most people don't mind to pay $50 to repair their titanium frames.:cheers: :cheers:

[JERRY HUANG]

:bbg: -----Forgot to mention plating titanium is too costly! Only can be done in Ironic plating ($100,000 equipment) or modify the commerical plating tank (must be oxygen-free). Plating solution contains water = H2O. We must remove the "O" away when we want to plate titanium. Cost $40,000 to modify!

or..someone told me to sandblast titanium first, then I can plate the frame in any color in matte finish.:hammer:

Tiniting from bare titanium metal to reach any color is the most economic way I can find!

[rwallner]

Thanks for all the great information! I have been looking at the House of Kolor stuff as you recommended. Is the PU base you mentioned the UC35? and then add "stripping" pigment to it? is there any that can be stored fro any period of time, or once you add the Catalyst hurry up and use it?
I seem to remember someone using voltage controlled plating ti (actually a bicycle manufacturer) using an open water bath. It sticks in my mind because they demonstrated drinking some of the "water" when I asked what it was. The only thing I could identify was a cathode and anode immersed in the tank. No "hunk" of metal in the bottom. "rainbow" color was acheived by how long it was left in the tank. Maybe it will be worth a trip back there to ask more questions.

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi rwallner,

Is the PU base you mentioned the UC35?

----- Sorry! I have to go back to the paint shop to check out the item number from the invoice first.:bbg:

and then add "stripping" pigment to it?

-----"stripping pigment"--I never heard of this one! I always use solvent base pigment in paste form. Paste form pigment helps me to control color matching precisely.

is there any that can be stored fro any period of time, or once you add the Catalyst hurry up and use it?


------Yes, we only have 15 minutes to play around once catalyst is added to the PU base paint.


I seem to remember someone using voltage controlled plating ti (actually a bicycle manufacturer) using an open water bath. It sticks in my mind because they demonstrated drinking some of the "water" when I asked what it was. The only thing I could identify was a cathode and anode immersed in the tank. No "hunk" of metal in the bottom. "rainbow" color was acheived by how long it was left in the tank. Maybe it will be worth a trip back there to ask more questions.

----You mentioned "water", "Cathode,anode", and "rainbow color effect" from bicycle manufacturing. Sounds like you are talking about anodizing treatment. Anodizing is only good for aluminum material or any metal contains great amount of aluminum. The advantage of anodizing process----provides stable color, offers more soft tone color choices, such as soft pink and soft blue, and the surface will be scratch resistant once is treated. The disadvantage----it is not corrosion resistant at all! That is why most manufactories only apply anodizing treatment on less skin contact Aluminum related products, such as bicycle, computer case, traveling luggage...etc. Definitely not the best choice for eyewear frames finishing!

[okoart]

OKO-Art of Design is the aswer to custom coloring metal eyewear.
State-of-the-Art powder coat technology.
Restore old eyewear or custom color a new frame.

Located in Los Angeles- For over a decade working with the biggest names in the optical industry.

OKO