Solution for Zyl frames slipping down one's nose?

[audelair]

Other than further tightening the frames at the ears, is there a way to keep plastic frames on one's nose? Do they happen to make any type of material to apply to the nose to give it more grip?

i really like the zyl frames i have. they definitely start slipping after awhile, especially on hot days after a little perspiring. I've had them adjusted to be a little tighter, and i really don't want it to get much tighter at the ears.

thanks for any advice! :)

[chip anderson]

1) Should not hold on ear, should hold on head behind ear.
2) Adjust frame so that it holds only on head behind ear, not on face in front of ear.
3) If all else fails try Hilco cable conversion. Yes you can do this on a zyl frame. You just cut off the plastic only of the temple 8 to the point where you would normaly attach the cable conversion, leaving the wire core. Then trim the wire core leaving an optimum amount to attach cable conversion.

Might not be as pretty but it works very, very well.

Chip:cheers:

[Jacqui]

Can also get really thin silicon nose pads for zyl frames, these help too. Get them from Hilco or your optician

[audelair]

yea actually it is tightened on the head behind ears already.

thanks for the suggestion... i might look into the silicon nose pads for zyl :)

[harry a saake]

Audelair, all that Chip said is basic and true, however also, one must have a proper fit on the bridge of the nose, in order to be successful with the fit. Often this may mean telling the patient that this frame is not really a proper fit.
......A bridge that is to wide is often a leading cause of slippage. When you look at a frame, you should not only look at the size of the bridge, but also take into consideration the splay angle of that bridge.
.....This is often why you see two bridges marked the same size and one fits and the other does not. Females will typically have smaller narrower nasals then will men, and quite often a keyhole bridge will work better in these situations.
......A test you can do on anyone to see if the bridge is too large, is to put your hands on both sides of the frame as the patient is wearing it. Look at the nasal and rock the frame side to side, if it moves a lot the chances are that bridge is too wide.

[Johns]

I couldn't agree with Harry more.

One of the hardest parts of our job is disuading customers from choosing a particular frame just because of the great color or style. I have, on occasion, sold an ill-fitting zyl (at the customer's insistance), but told them to purchase a second choice that was a better fit as a backup.

Bridge fit is crucial!

[audelair]

thanks very much for the responses.

i think my frames fit well enough not to do any drastic alteration to it. they just need slightly more adjusting than my flexon frames.

i'm starting to realize that it is more of an obsessive/compulsive thing. i can force myself not to readjust my frames for awhile, and start going crazy. and then i'll go to a mirror and watch myself adjust it, and realize it had barely slipped at all :)

[BobV]

If someone wants a zyl frame, make sure the frame is balanced with the lenses. By that I mean, if you have a high plus, try a little retro tilt so you DON't have a lot of forward weight. And as others have said, fit is important too. A too narrow bridge will make the glasses sit high, a too wide bridge and the glasses will slip forward.

Possibly try forming the temples into library style, similar to Oakley. This may help with slipping problems.

Bob V.

[chip anderson]

Actualy back before frame manufacturers became the high profit little effort companies they are today, many frames came with a variety of temples which could amoung other things be ballanced with the weight of the lenses being placed in them. I once hear Ralph Drew say: "I could fit anyone with a Broker. It had 27 different styles and weights of temple and several bridges."

Remember Keyhole bridges, saddle bridges, etc.

Pity we have become what we are today. High tech only counts if it costs more.

Chip

[jediron1]

Chip you hit it right on! An yes I do remember those. Remember
the Ronsir? Came in I believe 42 eye up to a 52 and came in 18,
20, 22 bridges and 43/4" to 61/2" temple length and came in cable temples from 6" to 71/4" length.:drop:

[jediron1]

Remember the Rodenstock Rocco frame? Boy are we going down
memory lane. Or is that Penny Lane? Strawberry Fields For Ever.
Will the Fool on the hill ever come back through the bathroom door?:bbg:

[Jacqui]

I thought I was the only one around that remembered the Ronsir, Sirmont, Leading Lady, etc. Yes I do remmber the keyhole and saddle bridges too. :)

[BobV]

at home. I was thinking about making a shadowbox display for work.

Bob V.

[carlee105]

Wow, you guys broughtback memories of those old frames.

One that sticks out in my mind is the Retina (rodenstock), the whole Shuron group, Martin Wells .

And who could forget those Polymil rimless frames that you had to glue the lens on the little piece of rubber.

I hope the "facet" NEVER comes back.

Guess change is progress. I just don't stay caught up on all the new lenses and such working for an independent doctor.

I remember the lst time I heated an Optyl frame, you could have poured it in a glass. LOL

Ah, yes...... the good ole days, thanks for reminding me!

Carolyn:cheers:

[Jedi]

Another solution is to have your optician or lab attach adjustable nosepads to the frame, then use a silicon pad. I'm certain every accessory vendor carries something to that extent.

[mrba]

Another solution is to super glue the frame behind the ears.

[Caroline]

I prefer to use staples. Less mess that way.

[Judy Canty]

Actually a cup hook at the bridge of the nose will allow for multiple pairs of glasses...superglue and staples limit you to just one pair.

[Diane]

Judy Canty said:
Actually a cup hook at the bridge of the nose will allow for multiple pairs of glasses...superglue and staples limit you to just one pair.

This is a good one Judy...I've tried the glue and the staples, but not the cup hook. Do you recommend the type that screws in or the suction cup type?

I've also attempted drilling through completely from each side and threading a nylon cord through from temple to temple. Patients complain a little about the noise as it passes through the skull, though. Does anyone have a solution that reduces the noise.

Diane:hammer:

[mrba]

and Shanbaum calls me the maniac!!!

[chip anderson]

Why not just attach nose and ear piercings in the appropriate(?)
places and attach frame to same? You could also have chain suspension mounts from eye brows. It began to serve a useful purpose the idiotic craze for stange body jewelry would go away!

Chip:hammer:

[Judy Canty]

Diane said:
This is a good one Judy...I've tried the glue and the staples, but not the cup hook. Do you recommend the type that screws in or the suction cup type?
Diane:hammer:

Actually this is a judgement call, Diane. If you think that the small hole the screw-in kind will create will also deflate the customer's head, then the suction cup is the better choice. However, if the head proves to be so hard that small drill bits break, then by all means, use the suction cup variety. I'm sure that the noise complaints were due to the drill resonating around in such a large empty space. They'll get over it. :D

[Clive Noble]

You're all being childish..... there's only one sensible answer to this problem, a child's party balloon filled with helium and a thin cord attached to the bridge of the spectacles, this will keep them from slipping down

[Jedi]

Rivets.

Big ones.

[ripper]

Positive face form and no bungee jumping!!