tinting colours on 1.6 index lenses

[Mivec]

Can somebody enlighten me on the subject. We always have problem pertaining tinting colours on 1.6 index lenses.

Some of the problems include:
-not able to match the colour sample provided by customers
-colour of R and L lens became different as the lens age.( both lenses are tinted together)
-different colour appearance after coating.

[BC_boy]

just have to face the fact that 1.6 index lenses are tough to tint. if you go too much in and out of the dyes, than the lens will craze or spiderweb, whatever you want to call it.. I prefer sticking to 1.56 index or reg cr39.

[chip anderson]

E. Mail Chris Ryser his stuff works great on 166 and CR 39 had trouble with poly but on the other things it works better and faster in a micro-wave conventional stuff.

Chip

[jofelk]

1.6 index requires you to stand over the tint pots and check the lense before it gets too dark. You can usually get the color you want by mixing in different tints.
These lenses are not a good choice for sunglasses, the tints fade and change color.The tint can be rubbed off if high Rx touches brow.
The account usually returns the lenses after a year to be retinted.

[Corey Nicholls]

Generally in Australia, all 1.6 material is coated in a "Super Hard" coating. The reason for this is that 1.6 is very soft and will scratch if looked at the wrong way.

The coating itself will not absorb tint, so if tinting is to be done, it must be done before coating and therefore "locked" into the lens and unable to be altered.

The reason it may come off if touched by the brow may be because the tint may be not absobed far enough into the lens?

I have tried so called 1.6 tintable and have found that if the tint is at a normal temperature, the coating goes funny, and if you have the tint cooler it won't tint at all! I therefore order all 1.6 for sunglasses, as grind with a tint.

[RT]

What manufacturer's 1.60 are you using? There are more than one type of 1.60 out there, with very different properties.

[Corey Nicholls]

Generally Hoya, but use the occasional Sola, Essilor and Rodenstock.

[rsandr]

Are there any other wholesalers out there who love the way they tell their accounts about the problems of tints on hi index and polycarb, but they still constantly receive orders for dark blue gradients.
Pain.
Rick

[jofelk]

If we surface a poly or high index and apply the backside scratch coat, tinting is not a problem. I have found finished lenses, Seiko is a culprit, to be awfull for tinting dark.

Rick said;
" Are there any other wholesalers out there who love the way they tell their accounts about the problems of tints on hi index and polycarb, but they still constantly receive orders for dark blue gradients."


We feel your pain Rick, dark gray tints using Seiko always come out blue? What color should we use for gray?

[chip anderson]

For Gray use Chris Ryser's G-15 Micro-tints. They work like a charm and look better than Ray-Ban G-15.

Chip

[rsandr]

For Gray use Chris Ryser's G-15 Micro-tints. They work like a charm and look better than Ray-Ban G-15.

Im always reluctant to try anything new because when something seems too good to be true it usually is, and instead turns out to be a bag of daz.
I would be interested to know how easy they are,
Are correct densities often acheived first strike?
Do both lenses darken by the same amount?
Is it easy enough to adjust depth.

Rick

[chip anderson]

Experiment on scrap blanks. With a little practice it works like a charm.

Chip

[jofelk]

For Gray use Chris Ryser's G-15 Micro-tints. They work like a charm and look better than Ray-Ban G-15.

I had spoken to Chris some time ago and the process was not yet feasible for wholesale lab production. The process did not lend itself to large batches of lenses.