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Thread: what is the proper terminology for these step-bevels?

  1. #1
    OptiWizard
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    what is the proper terminology for these step-bevels?

    I have two jobs. One has a direct 90 degree step around the lens. The other one was slanted. I wanted to explain to the lab what I wanted but I realized I lacked the vocabulary for it.

    The first two images are what I want. The second two are what I do not want. thanks in advance!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    OptiBoardaholic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prentice Pro 9000 View Post
    I have two jobs. One has a direct 90 degree step around the lens. The other one was slanted. I wanted to explain to the lab what I wanted but I realized I lacked the vocabulary for it.

    The first two images are what I want. The second two are what I do not want. thanks in advance!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bevel I want.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	35.3 KB 
ID:	15555Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bevel style.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	10.8 KB 
ID:	15556Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bevel i do not want.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	29.3 KB 
ID:	15557Click image for larger version. 

Name:	slanted bevel.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	35.1 KB 
ID:	15558
    The simplest answer is you want the first lens with less step so there is no visible ring around the inside eyewire. Take picture 1 send with an email and ask for no gap on a remake, done.

    A labs edger that does step bevels has a program to calculate the step bevel tool do its job most effectively.
    This program calculates an amount of as you say "slant" for both the bevel tool and step tool. It is physics within the machine, the tools and the lens. The amount of slant is different for each lens base, each lens shape, size and frame curve. Less slant on flat front lenses, more slant on the most curved lenses.
    Again your example has to do with step depth not slant.
    Step depth is up to the operator, ask them to do better.
    Calculation of slant is up to the edger software program, asking to change this to 90 degrees all the time will result in poor fitting lenses with too much step depth.
    Go to U tube and search Laramy K Optical and watch their video High curves and step bevels for a much better explanation than I can do.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plausible View Post
    The simplest answer is you want the first lens with less step so there is no visible ring around the inside eyewire. Take picture 1 send with an email and ask for no gap on a remake, done.

    A labs edger that does step bevels has a program to calculate the step bevel tool do its job most effectively.
    This program calculates an amount of as you say "slant" for both the bevel tool and step tool. It is physics within the machine, the tools and the lens. The amount of slant is different for each lens base, each lens shape, size and frame curve. Less slant on flat front lenses, more slant on the most curved lenses.
    Again your example has to do with step depth not slant.
    Step depth is up to the operator, ask them to do better.
    Calculation of slant is up to the edger software program, asking to change this to 90 degrees all the time will result in poor fitting lenses with too much step depth.
    Go to U tube and search Laramy K Optical and watch their video High curves and step bevels for a much better explanation than I can do.
    Terminology is correct. Just adding that what you don't want is a shelf bevel.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	15559

  4. #4
    OptiWizard
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plausible View Post
    The simplest answer is you want the first lens with less step so there is no visible ring around the inside eyewire. Take picture 1 send with an email and ask for no gap on a remake, done.

    A labs edger that does step bevels has a program to calculate the step bevel tool do its job most effectively.
    This program calculates an amount of as you say "slant" for both the bevel tool and step tool. It is physics within the machine, the tools and the lens. The amount of slant is different for each lens base, each lens shape, size and frame curve. Less slant on flat front lenses, more slant on the most curved lenses.
    Again your example has to do with step depth not slant.
    Step depth is up to the operator, ask them to do better.
    Calculation of slant is up to the edger software program, asking to change this to 90 degrees all the time will result in poor fitting lenses with too much step depth.
    Go to U tube and search Laramy K Optical and watch their video High curves and step bevels for a much better explanation than I can do.
    So the first one with the ring actually fits better that the slanted one pictured. Also, the Laramy K video does not mention the machine having any control over the angle of the shelf.

  5. #5
    OptiWizard
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    Quote Originally Posted by PRECISIONLAB View Post
    Terminology is correct. Just adding that what you don't want is a shelf bevel.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Heyyyyy!!! thank you! where did this image come from btw?

  6. #6
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    Give the measurement to the lab of the step depth and the angle of the incline. A good edging will follow you’re instructions.

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