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Thread: It's 2018... Who does Rimless/Drill Mount the best?

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser View Post
    .........................just make sure your lab puts a drop of "Drillseal" into every hole if the lens used is "POLYCARBONATE". That material can get rips in the drill hole if the drill is not new and totally sharp and you will get cracks going out from the holes. Drillseal will fused those rips and lenses will not crack.
    anybody knows who sells drillseal now, perhaps under a different name? or any similar solution?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tf50fm View Post
    anybody knows who sells drillseal now, perhaps under a different name? or any similar solution?
    If you can find a chemical that instantly polishes the edges of poly lenses, it's the same product.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jefe View Post
    If you can find a chemical that instantly polishes the edges of poly lenses, it's the same product.
    Hi thanks for the tip!

    Many of these chemicals contain methylene chloride which is toxic, is there a greener alternative?

    Some chemicals, which may be greener, have been used for solvent polishing of poly but may cause lens crazing

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tf50fm View Post
    Hi thanks for the tip!

    Many of these chemicals contain methylene chloride which is toxic, is there a greener alternative?

    Some chemicals, which may be greener, have been used for solvent polishing of poly but may cause lens crazing
    I'm not aware of any greener alternative.

  5. #30
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    Obtain some UV cure hard coat from your lab. You will need to purchase a uv light to cure the coating but it will shine the edges and seal the holes. Application will be with a paint brush any mistakes can be removed before you cure the coating with out any problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lensman11 View Post
    Obtain some UV cure hard coat from your lab. You will need to purchase a uv light to cure the coating but it will shine the edges and seal the holes. Application will be with a paint brush any mistakes can be removed before you cure the coating with out any problems.
    ...Or you could use Trivex, MR-8, Tribrid, or MR-10 instead of poly.

  7. #32
    Ghost in the OptiMachine Quince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefe View Post
    ...Or you could use Trivex, MR-8, Tribrid, or MR-10 instead of poly.
    +1
    Have I told you today how much I hate poly?

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lensman11 View Post
    Obtain some UV cure hard coat from your lab. You will need to purchase a uv light to cure the coating but it will shine the edges and seal the holes. Application will be with a paint brush any mistakes can be removed before you cure the coating with out any problems.
    hi thanks for the tip! Do labs do this as part of their standard procedure for drilled poly?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefe View Post
    I'm not aware of any greener alternative.
    Hi do you recommend using methylene chloride, or perhaps the edge polishing agent from optisource?
    Last edited by tf50fm; 12-30-2020 at 09:57 AM.

  10. #35
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    This discussion is making me miss Chris Ryser something awful.
    I'm Andrew Hamm and I approve this message.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by tf50fm View Post
    Hi do you recommend using methylene chloride, or perhaps the edge polishing agent from optisource?
    it seems that edge polishing agents, or solvent polishing agents in general are all relatively toxic like paint thinners (the sds might say otherwise), and they might use different forms of hydrochlorocarbons;


    Quote Originally Posted by AngeHamm View Post
    This discussion is making me miss Chris Ryser something awful.
    definitely

  12. #37
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    If the process is done correctly there is no need to do anything to the holes or the edge. Change the cutting bit when it is due. Yes it cost money to replace the cutter but the damage done by not changing it is far greater. If you believe the cutter will last 1000 cuts change it at 500 you will be amazed at the quality improvement. Most edgers do an outstanding job edge polishing if the sizing is correct and the process is working as designed.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lensman11 View Post
    If the process is done correctly there is no need to do anything to the holes or the edge. Change the cutting bit when it is due. Yes it cost money to replace the cutter but the damage done by not changing it is far greater. If you believe the cutter will last 1000 cuts change it at 500 you will be amazed at the quality improvement. Most edgers do an outstanding job edge polishing if the sizing is correct and the process is working as designed.
    typically how often should labs change their drill bits? after every 1000, 2000 or 5000 drills? perhaps for standard drill bits with high speed steel

  14. #39
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    There is no definitive answer to the question when to change the cutter. How many poly do you do, how thick is every lens as drilling a -6.00 wears the bit way more than -0.50. No one collects that kind of data. The best way would be to run a test lens every day and look at the hole with a loupe and observe the quality of the cut. Actually Trivex will dull the cutter faster than poly, but a dull bit does not cause stress cracks in Trivex.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tf50fm View Post
    Hi do you recommend using methylene chloride, or perhaps the edge polishing agent from optisource?
    I recommend using something other than poly for rimless. If you still want to use poly the edge polishing stuff from Optisource is probably the stuff you want to use. I bought mine from Optochemical when Chris Ryser was still around.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefe View Post
    I recommend using something other than poly for rimless. If you still want to use poly the edge polishing stuff from Optisource is probably the stuff you want to use. I bought mine from Optochemical when Chris Ryser was still around.
    does anyone knows if thinner poly lens will reduce chances of cracking?

    is it possible that with careful process control, no chemicals and chamfering is required?

    if labs can handle brittle mineral glass in the past, it should be easier for them to deal with poly

  17. #42
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    It’s simple. If the drill bit is sharp, cracks won’t be an issue. Spend a few bucks and replace the bits on a regular basis. In edger, drill station, Dremel, etc.
    None of the poly drills have cracked under my watch in over 6 years.
    I bend light. That is what I do.

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