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Thread: Repairing sunglasses lenses? Is it possible?

  1. #1
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    Confused Repairing sunglasses lenses? Is it possible?

    Hello forum,

    I run a small business in UK where I re-sell pre-owned and vintage designer sunglasses by high end brands such as Prada, Gucci, Versace, Chanel etc... I also have a day job so Optical stuff is not my main field of expertise.

    Some of the sunglasses I receive for re-sale have lenses that are scratched, or have the coating peeling off. I would also highlight that I do not deal with any type of prescription eyewear. I deal with regular sunglasses only.

    I am wondering, is it actually possible/practical to repair such lenses. Also I would not know what they are made of. They are all plastic lenses but are they poly or CR39? Most of the sunglasses I re-sell are made by Luxottica Group SpA if it helps.

    I have read this old thread where people suggest you can do it using acids etc.
    http://www.optiboard.com/forums/show...ective-coating

    Not sure how to get rid of scratches though?

    Is it even worth going down this road or should I invest in a Patternless Edger and instead cut new lenses?

    On this subject I did some research of CR39 lens suppliers and best prices I found for new lenses are below. Would you consider these prices competitive/good, considering I will be buying no more than $1000 batch as first order:

    Available in 24 different colors

    Wholesale prices removed.

    Thanks in advance if you can take time to reply to me.

  2. #2
    Forever Liz's Dad Steve Machol's Avatar
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    Please note that it is against the forum rules to post wholesale prices in a public forum.


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Machol View Post
    Please note that it is against the forum rules to post wholesale prices in a public forum.
    Apologies, I didn't list the supplier name so I thought it would be OK.

  4. #4
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    Interesting business, SG.

    If your success depends on repairing old lenses, you're in trouble. Better assume you'll need to edge replacement plano lenses for your frame stock. Depending on your volume, you may find it preferable to buy an edger and do that yourself (in which case your bulk lens purchases will make sense.) That's a formidable expense, however. Until you're sure of your volume, you may rely upon a lab to do your lens replacements for you. Since you're selling planos, you can get this done before your shades hit the shelves so they're ready to sell out the door. (With your own edger, you can customize requests [mirror, etc.] for same-day service.

    You've got big decisions to make about whether or not to add anti-glare treatments to your lenses. I'm unfamiliar with previously-owned shades market and have no idea if AR would be in demand or a cost-obstacle.

    Either way, I'd suggest polycarbonate lenses for strength and impact resistance.

  5. #5
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    SG, may I also suggest you change your "Occupation" to 'Other related field,' rather than "Optometrist." They're usually too nice to complain, but since optical stuff is their thing--it's a distinction they've earned. ;)

  6. #6
    Ghost in the OptiMachine Quince's Avatar
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    I second poly for this job. We only offer stock plano polar in poly because of the issues with layers separating in plastic. It will be much more cost efficient using poly if you plan on edging yourself. If you are having an outside lab do the work- I would probably still suggest poly if you don't want to have to pay attention to what frames require impact resistance.

    Also I think most suppliers only offer mirrors on poly.

    If you can wait a day or two and don't want to get too invested in delving down the optical rabbit hole, I would suggest getting a GOOD remote tracer and set it up so that you can trace your frames and have lenses sent right to you. Then all you have to do is pop them in the frames. You will need a decent tracer for them to come in correct.
    Have I told you today how much I hate poly?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quince View Post
    I second poly for this job. We only offer stock plano polar in poly because of the issues with layers separating in plastic. It will be much more cost efficient using poly if you plan on edging yourself. If you are having an outside lab do the work- I would probably still suggest poly if you don't want to have to pay attention to what frames require impact resistance.

    Also I think most suppliers only offer mirrors on poly.

    If you can wait a day or two and don't want to get too invested in delving down the optical rabbit hole, I would suggest getting a GOOD remote tracer and set it up so that you can trace your frames and have lenses sent right to you. Then all you have to do is pop them in the frames. You will need a decent tracer for them to come in correct.
    Thank you for those who replied and I have updated my occupation. sorry

    Another question I have:

    If I go down the route of buying tracer and edger.

    Would there be any point in buying plain lenses and then applying tint myself? Or should I just buy finished lenses? I mean based on your experience, would it be financially efficient? Or am I looking at wasting a lot of time and saving only a few pennies?

    Also I have never tinted any lenses so would not know how to do that. However I am very good with all kinds of manufacturing/industrial equipment.

    My main job is an automotive engineer for over 10 years, but unfortunately don't get paid enough to have decent living here in London so have to run a sideline business!

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    Ghost in the OptiMachine Quince's Avatar
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    Don't bother with tinting. It will be a a time consumer and the fumes are hazardous meaning you would need to invest in the tinting unit, chemicals, and fume hood. Also poly doesn't absorb tint very well so you would have to offer plastic which won't work universally depending on the frame.

    I commend you for having a fun and unique side-job. I started in a chain retail store and half of my crew had 'real' day jobs as scientists and just worked optics on the side!
    Have I told you today how much I hate poly?

  9. #9
    Ghost in the OptiMachine Quince's Avatar
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    If I were in your shoes, I would start looking into Finish Labs and see who is the best fit for what you need. There are some really great independent labs out there that could set you up with the correct tracing unit and iron out the details for availability and time frame.
    Have I told you today how much I hate poly?

  10. #10
    ods
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    Who is the best independent lab and why?
    Also, can do mirrors in house

  11. #11
    Ghost in the OptiMachine Quince's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ods View Post
    Who is the best independent lab and why?
    Also, can do mirrors in house
    Loaded question. Different people will tell you different labs for different reasons.

    In this instance, where there is no RX capability needed, I would suggest calling around for the fastest time frame and best price.

    In my experience, the mid-sized labs will probably offer the best deal.

    This might help:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My personal opinions say look at Identity, Cherry, FEA, and Three Rivers.
    Have I told you today how much I hate poly?

  12. #12
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    Absolutely try to work out a special deal for your situation, explain yourself and let them know what you want.

  13. #13
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    Redhot Jumper I beg to differ ........................

    Quote Originally Posted by Quince View Post

    Don't bother with tinting. It will be a a time consumer and the fumes are hazardous meaning you would need to invest in the tinting unit, chemicals, and fume hood. Also poly doesn't absorb tint very well so you would have to offer plastic which won't work universally depending on the frame.

    I beg to differ ........................

    Above statement is correct if you tint the old established tinting way that started in the late 60s and early 70s.

    New mode high temperature dyes from the newer days do not smell, can be heated to the maximum and the neutralizers are also water based and need no special ventilation.

    The neutralizer can be purchased in 500 ml concentrates (cheaper transport) and just mixed with regular tap water.

    These antique frames never cam in Polycarbonate lenses, CR39 was standard then, problem solved.

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