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Thread: How to remove Cryzal antislip coat?

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    How to remove Cryzal antislip coat?

    We use alcohol to clean the antislip coat of finished Crysal single vision lenses once they has been edged. But, the antislip coat is not ease to remove and some lenses scratch. Is there a easier way?

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    I use an Ink Remover I find it works best. Inland or Dynamic's Eliminator are my two favorite, very safe on Poly. I hate the greasy ones - as far as I'm concerned oily things have no place in a finishing lab!

    I have no idea what you will be able to get easily in Panama from your distributors.

    It is a pain in the butt to get off.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter lensmanmd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIOPE View Post
    We use alcohol to clean the antislip coat of finished Crysal single vision lenses once they has been edged. But, the antislip coat is not ease to remove and some lenses scratch. Is there a easier way?
    We don't use Cryzal, but the Zeiss Duravision top coat wipes off easily with just the disposable cotton wipes from Hilco. We try not to use any chemicals. For stubborn top coats, we use Ink Remover from Delta Optical, but any non acetone remover will work.

    We we also use a no slip spray from Quantum on our in house AR. That wipes off easily with the Hilco cloths as well.

    The longer the top coat remains on the lens, the harder it is to remove.

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    Been using alcohol pads for over a decade with great success.
    Clinton Tower

    The intellect to live free is in short supply
    ALT248=°

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    One of my biggest pet peeves are AR lenses mounted in a frame with a subtle purple ring around the outside that will quickly get filled with oil and gunk that the exposed hydro and oleo coatings push towards it. Take the dang lenses out, clean the protective purple coating off and remount them before saying the job is final inspected. That really gets my dander up, and i have a lot of dander though it takes a lot to get it up, but once it's up, boy howdy watch out!

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    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    I've used Viva paper towels forever to remove the anti-slip coating. ( And no, Viva won't scratch your lenses if you're using a premium AR) I've been told chem's like alcohol will damage/shorten the life of Hydro/olio coatings.

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    OptiWizard OptiBoard Bronze Supporter pezfaerie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy View Post
    One of my biggest pet peeves are AR lenses mounted in a frame with a subtle purple ring around the outside that will quickly get filled with oil and gunk that the exposed hydro and oleo coatings push towards it. Take the dang lenses out, clean the protective purple coating off and remount them before saying the job is final inspected. That really gets my dander up, and i have a lot of dander though it takes a lot to get it up, but once it's up, boy howdy watch out!
    +1
    Pez:D

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    I don't understand the hesitancy to use ink removers on lenses during finishing? Surely a quick wipe. On either side of the lens isn't affecting fresh hydro coating is it? I wouldn't tell a customer to use Eliminator every day to clean their lenses but one time during finishing? Works too well for me to stop unless I see negative results which I haven't.

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    Quote Originally Posted by optical24/7 View Post
    I've used Viva paper towels forever to remove the anti-slip coating. ( And no, Viva won't scratch your lenses if you're using a premium AR) I've been told chem's like alcohol will damage/shorten the life of Hydro/olio coatings.
    Brave...
    No wood fibers near my lenses...And yes, IPA is a drying agent and will shorten the hydro lifespan if too much is used. And no, not the beer kind of IPA........

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    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lensmanmd View Post
    Brave...
    No wood fibers near my lenses...And yes, IPA is a drying agent and will shorten the hydro lifespan if too much is used. And no, not the beer kind of IPA........
    To each their own, but for over 20 years since these ( Essilors) anti-slip coatings have been out, zero scratches. Keep in mind most lens scratching is from pressure aggression cleaning. It doesn't take much pressure to wipe the coating off. Doubt it, try it. Less loss of hydro/olio coatings.

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    Master Jedi King of the Lab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lensmanmd View Post
    Brave...
    No wood fibers near my lenses...And yes, IPA is a drying agent and will shorten the hydro lifespan if too much is used. And no, not the beer kind of IPA........
    Did someone say IPA beer? mmmmmmmmmm (Homer Simpson drool)

    All Off from Optisource is my all time favorite mark remover, although it is on the pricier side.
    Erik Zuniga, ABOC.

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    Acetone free nail polish remover.......it costs like $1.00 at CVS.

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    Rising Star McAnerin's Avatar
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    Depending on the brand, I noticed with my Zeiss lenses, I had to use alcohol or ink remover, but Shamir for instance, it's way easier just to rinse the lens under warm water and give it a good clean. I'm with Hoya now, so I've had to go with markaway. Any Crizal lenses we have are usually finished stock, and I find the water method works fine
    -Poly is the best substrate for coatings.
    -Poly is extremely scratch resistant.
    -Poly is extremely impact resistant.
    -Poly is unparalleled in clarity.
    -Poly is much lighter than traditional crown glass.
    Like poly, you can trust me about 40% of the time.

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    Master OptiBoarder AngeHamm's Avatar
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    I've never had a problem with simple rubbing alcohol and tissues.
    I'm Andrew Hamm and I approve this message.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AngeHamm View Post
    I've never had a problem with simple rubbing alcohol and tissues.
    The water content of rubbing alcohol probably makes it okay, but pure Isopropyl on poly and even 1.67 can cause coating adhersion problems because it absorbs through the edges.

    I love my eliminator, that stuff is the best. Im sure warm water and dawn works too though. Eliminator is fatastic on facial oils also

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    You should always use soap and water to remove any non-slip coating. Acetone, alcohol, or any other solvent based cleaner will ultimately damage the hydrophobic that is underneath the non-slip layer. This will in turn lead to warranty returns much sooner than you are hoping to have them.

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    Chris Ryser's Markaway and Kim-Wipes.

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    Master OptiBoarder AngeHamm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy View Post
    The water content of rubbing alcohol probably makes it okay, but pure Isopropyl on poly and even 1.67 can cause coating adhersion problems because it absorbs through the edges.

    I love my eliminator, that stuff is the best. Im sure warm water and dawn works too though. Eliminator is fatastic on facial oils also
    Eliminator is amazing.
    I'm Andrew Hamm and I approve this message.

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    About 15 - 20 years ago, one of the trade magazines did an article on cleaning a/r coated lenses. They simulated thousands of cleanings using everything from toilet paper to diapers to soft t-shirts. The only two things that did not scratch the lenses were microfiber cleaning cloths and Bounty paper towels. I use Bounty to remove the film. Just a very gentle wipe and it totally disappears.

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    Essilor sell the own lens cleaner "Essiclean anyway I use alcool

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    Quote Originally Posted by dima View Post
    Essilor sell the own lens cleaner "Essiclean anyway I use alcool
    Ethanol or Isopropyl? We can't use ethanol without an adulterant here in the us. Tax laws and what not.

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    "denatured ethyl alcohol" I can buy it at the Pharmacy or many mall.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajonesgirl View Post
    About 15 - 20 years ago, one of the trade magazines did an article on cleaning a/r coated lenses. They simulated thousands of cleanings using everything from toilet paper to diapers to soft t-shirts. The only two things that did not scratch the lenses were microfiber cleaning cloths and Bounty paper towels. I use Bounty to remove the film. Just a very gentle wipe and it totally disappears.
    Did they include a wet kim wipe? I have to go watch the superbowl but I'm on optiboard right now because I obsess. Can you remember the trade rag this study was in? Sounds like something we shouldn't let be lost to history, SOUNDS LIKE OPTIBOARD! :)

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter lensmanmd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tallboy View Post
    Did they include a wet kim wipe? I have to go watch the superbowl but I'm on optiboard right now because I obsess. Can you remember the trade rag this study was in? Sounds like something we shouldn't let be lost to history, SOUNDS LIKE OPTIBOARD! :)
    Interested party here as well.

    I am not a fan of Kim Wipes. The anti static properties make them ideal for cleaning dust and grime around circuits, but I find them way too abrasive for lenses. I like Hilco's cotton fiber disposable towels for wiping the anti slip film/spray. I find that they clean all the anti-slip stuff off on lenses without the use of chemicals, and without scratching lenses.

    As for Bounty paper towels, never tried them, probably never will. No wood fiber products near my lenses......but I can be convinced, as long as there is enough reputable proof against my anti-wood product bias.

    And I am going to skip the Super-Bowl Officiating will suck and will go against Philly by at least 5-1 (penalties in favor of NE). I might tune in for the commercials, but based on last year's commercials, I think I would rather watch Netflix with multiple IPAs in hand.

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    Here is a PDF of the article. It seems to be from May of 1999 by John Young, the founder of COLTS laboratories. It would be nice to see what it looks like with modern coatings. I would assume today's coatings would fare much better in the cleaning materials category and probably similar to the '99 coatings in the solutions category.

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