Grooving polarized lenses

[ajjurcis]

I'm a new lab manager at a family-owned optical shop with high-end designer frames. The new inventory (since I'm coming from LensCrafters) took a small adjustment period but I like to think I've got it down.
A problem that I constantly have to balance is trying to groove polarized lenses, using the proper depth and width for these frames, and avoid cutting out the color (happens frequently) or causing the lens(es) to delaminate. If the color is cut-out I troubleshoot by filling the groove with a similar color using the colored groove pens from Lindberg.
Any tips or tricks from the lab community on how to avoid this from happening?

[lensmanmd]

I'm a new lab manager at a family-owned optical shop with high-end designer frames. The new inventory (since I'm coming from LensCrafters) took a small adjustment period but I like to think I've got it down.
A problem that I constantly have to balance is trying to groove polarized lenses, using the proper depth and width for these frames, and avoid cutting out the color (happens frequently) or causing the lens(es) to delaminate. If the color is cut-out I troubleshoot by filling the groove with a similar color using the colored groove pens from Lindberg.
Any tips or tricks from the lab community on how to avoid this from happening?

We tell our opticians that groove mount Polar is not recommended, but they never listen.

.5 depth and width works for us as long as the groove is at least 1mm from the front of the lens for all materials except CR39. Most of the time, average position based on the edger works well.
We do not accept grooved CR39 Polarized. In those instances where one sneaks through, we bias towards the back of the lens to make sure that the the groove doesn't hit the film. Looks ugly, though.
In all cases, sizing is important. You want to make sure that the cord does not put the lenses under undue stress.

[ajjurcis]

We tell our opticians that groove mount Polar is not recommended, but they never listen.

So true. The majority of the "opticians" today are too focused on the sale and make our life a nightmare.

The majority of my grooved frames are mounted into frames that use a metal "string". Designers like Mykita and Mykita Lite, Theo, etc. I've tried placing the groove just about everywhere I could think. Behind the film using ratio 6/4 and 7/3 gives best results but... I still have instances where I lose a bit of color from the front. My edger (ME1200) is set to groove standard of .3 depth and .6 width which I usually keep

[AngeHamm]

Polarized grooved is problematic under the most ideal of circumstances. I'd try to avoid it.

[lensmanmd]

So true. The majority of the "opticians" today are too focused on the sale and make our life a nightmare.

The majority of my grooved frames are mounted into frames that use a metal "string". Designers like Mykita and Mykita Lite, Theo, etc. I've tried placing the groove just about everywhere I could think. Behind the film using ratio 6/4 and 7/3 gives best results but... I still have instances where I lose a bit of color from the front. My edger (ME1200) is set to groove standard of .3 depth and .6 width which I usually keep

For metal/T-grooves, .8 depth with a .6 width seems to work well. We use this combo on the Red Rose and Marchon sun frames, as well as the occasional Lindbergs and Pro Designs that float on through. i just finished one yesterday, t-mount in a 1.67 polar, and it didn't look too bad, even after doing a 1/3 follow, since it grooved on the un-tinted portion. Why sell a -7D in a semi-rim is beyond me.

[lensmanmd]

Polarized grooved is problematic under the most ideal of circumstances. I'd try to avoid it.

+1

[ajjurcis]

For metal/T-grooves, .8 depth with a .6 width seems to work well. We use this combo on the Red Rose and Marchon sun frames, as well as the occasional Lindbergs and Pro Designs that float on through

.

The problem is less grooving for fit but more how to avoid the film and reduce the loss of color. Cutting on the backside of the lens helps but isn't full-proof... probably why polarized lenses with grooves should be avoided..