When laying out our lenses for edging we can choose Active or Passive. Which is better for typical work and what do those with more experience than our staff advise? If you have a favorite default mode, when would you change to the other mode?
Our edger is a Santinelli LEX 1200. We have a small older blocker but are considering upgrading to an ICE Mini.
Thanks to all for your good feedback.
If you have that machine and don't understand the choices it might be wise to get some training from Santinelli. I am not being sarcastic but serious, this is a basic question but has huge impact on how the work is blocked and there is a reason to only use one; it is the right way.Originally Posted by JSD
They may have some video's as well that are good tools.
I will second the post from Craig and add the comment, RTFM. It is always best to get your learning directly from the horses mouth ether in person or by referring to their documentation. I don't want to be sarcastic either but online you often find the blind leading the blind.
Thanks Craig and Dick for your good input.
We have owned a 9000SX for many years and my optician always had it default to only 1 mode, which I believe was active. As we recently upgraded to this new LEX I got involved with it's usage. I understand the difference in operation of the 2 methods, but just wanted to get feedback from seasoned opticians on why they would prefer one method over another, and when you may choose the alternate method. We are involved with training a new staffer and her question is why? Thanks again for any good feedback.
P.S. WTF does RTFM mean? Thank you sir. Where else could I get great feedback like this?
I use passive mode whichever edger I am using. I now use a Spartan, but have used a 7070 and an LEX. When you use active mode the movement of the chuck on the diamond wheel will be skewed to one side and this can cause problems. When using passive mode you know that the block will be in the geometric center of the lens; in my experience this minimizes issues you may have with movement of the lens on the wheel.BTW: RTFM= Read The Fricking Manual
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When using a Santinelli 7070 and 9000, I always used the passive mode. In doing so, one would decrease problems associated with torque and the flexing of lenses as they would feed into the roughing wheel.
Great information. I understand the difference but it is a pleasure to get good feedback from you guys with lots of experience.
LOL--yep. I figured that must be part of a protocol from the welcoming committee. Thank you again guys.
Much appreciated. Thank you.
We currently have a little manual blocker. We are thinking about getting an Ice Mini. Based on the loads of experience that all you guys have do you all feel that investing about $7K is a good investment for an Ice Mini?
Looking at a description of the Lex 1200, it doesn't appear the $7,000 purchase would make sense.
...unless you have the Lex drill -- in which case you would use it to specify hole locations, diameters, etc.
I agree with the prior posts. Using the passive mode will cause the lens to be blocked on the geo center and therefore be less prone to torque or twisting during the edging process. The active or Bifocal modes on the Santinelli Edgers is an attempt to simplify the need for understanding how to decenter in order for less skilled people to process lenses.
A knowledgable person will know that if there's little decentration involved they can block on center and then select active mode. Switching back and forth is very very confusion for unskilled people.
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