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Thread: Learning the Art of Frame Selection

  1. #1
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    Learning the Art of Frame Selection

    Of all the aspects of opticianry that one should aim to master, frame selection seems to be the most difficult. I've read the excellent chapter in System for Ophthalmic Dispensing on frame selection, however I still find it difficult to produce good frame selections while helping people out on the shop floor. I try and browse 20/20 to look at ads showing well-selected frames, but it still seems difficult to pick out appropriate frames under "pressure", regardless of how much theory I study.

    Does anyone have any suggestions to improve frame selection skills? Too often I'll pick out a string of frames and every one turns out to be less than ideal, and this leaves a poor impression on the patient. Is it just a matter of practice, practice, practice...?
    Daniel M.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    Optimal frame selection for any store/practice consists of:

    1. Whose doing the buying and what they're buying.
    2. How the styles are displayed/grouped
    3. Listening to your client base and what they want/asking for.
    4. The buyer(s) knowing what constitutes a good balanced fit.

    #4 is where almost all classroom education is absent. And on-the-job training isn't much better.

    B

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    Optimal frame selection for any store/practice consists of:

    1. Whose doing the buying and what they're buying.
    2. How the styles are displayed/grouped
    3. Listening to your client base and what they want/asking for.
    4. The buyer(s) knowing what constitutes a good balanced fit.

    #4 is where almost all classroom education is absent. And on-the-job training isn't much better.

    B
    We discuss symmetry and that the eyes centered is a great start. We then go on do discuss how it feels when they put on the frame and look in the mirror; asking how they feel reveals what they deem is important! That is first to understand:What do they have in mind?
    We then go onto the look: fun, sport, dressy, classic which gets us going in a direction and allows us to explore options i want to introduce. We always put on the most expensive products we offer as a comparison for them. They need to feel good about their frame purchase and that is our key to optimal frame selection.

    Craig- really a lens guy who likes nice things.

  4. #4
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    It is an art for sure. And personally, after 25 years usually it really clicks but sometimes I flounder.

    How does your shop work- do you walk around with people or do you pick a few frames and being them to the table? I ask about their current glasses, what do they like and dislike about them. I talk to them about what they want in their new glasses. This gives me a starting point. I also look at their RX and talk to them about any concerns or restrictions with it.

    Most of of the time I walk around with the person while they look. I'm careful not to like everything, that turns people off. I'll tell people if I think a frame is too big or small, or if it doesn't fit well at the bridge. I'll comment on color, if it's bold, softer, how it flatters(or not). I talk about how a shape balances a face or doesn't flatter. Especially with women over 40 I talk about whether a frame lifts.

    Some people want a lot of guidance, others want to mostly look on their own. You have to feel people out about this. If you ask directly I find almost everyone says they want to look on their own but most people do best with help at some point.
    Last edited by Happylady; 01-15-2016 at 10:12 AM.

  5. #5
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    Brooks and Boorish is certainly the best place to start. After studying that it helped, but, of course, working with a patient in real life in real time is a far cry from what you will learn in a text book. When selecting a frame I first ask if they have ever worn glasses before and if they have some idea of what they are looking for. Plastic or metal? Something Bold? Fun? Professional? Asking questions is the best way to determine what the customer is looking for. Do they like to have nose pads or not? Some people know exactly what they want, some have absolutely no idea. Are you working with an office professional who wants something fashion forward or a construction worker that requires something more durable and rugged?

    BE AWARE of allergies the patient may or not have to materials this is important! They may come right out and tell you but ASK if they have allergies to materials. Be thorough! Nickel allergies are common, choose alternative materials like titanium, plastic, stainless steel and tr-80 and more that I cant think of because its late and im tired. There are lots of alternatives.

    The science and art of frame selection is both objective and subjective respectively. Shape and size of the persons head, PD, DBL and bridge width, nose shape and ear position are all objective determining factors. Subjective factors include but are not limited to size of ego, depth of vanity, narcissism, career, age, gender (or non gender as the case may be), emotional state, habits, hobbies, hairstyle, eye color, height, skin tone, hair color, drinking habits, tax bracket, hearing aids, pets, lifestyle, intelligence (or non intelligence as the case may be), physical fitness, social rank, celebrity status, sense of humor, religious affiliation, health conditions, cognitive judgment, personality, homeopathic balance etc etc etc ad nauseum.

    Personally, I try to find frame shapes that replicate the more attractive features of the face. I look for symmetry, eye position in the frame, temple length to ensure the bend sculpts to the back of the ear correctly, weight of the frame, and of course, patient satisfaction with their choice. I also try to choose shapes that are in direct opposition with the shape of the patients face. More rectangular shaped frames for round faces, round for rectangular faces. People that have “diamond” or “heart” shaped faces I look for something with a little geometry and sharper corners. If they are wearing single vision lenses ill try to guide them to something smaller in shape and size. With progressive or bi-focal I’ll look for something with a bigger B measurement but also a frame whose temples are mounted to the top of the lens as opposed to the middle so the eye sits higher in the frame.

    If the patient chooses a plastic frame ensure their nose fits flush in the bridge. If there are gaps between nose and bridge the patient will end up with irritation and no one is going to be happy with that.

    You must have a certain amount of empathy in order to help a person with frame choice. After all, they are going to be wearing these in public all day for long periods of time. Unless they simply do not care what they look like (which is the case sometimes) they will want something that looks good.

    There was a study done (i cant remember the source or I would reference it) where people told their doctor after treatment that they felt better because they did not want to hurt the doctors feelings regardless of whether they felt better or not. You may notice after an adjustment that people will quickly say OH THAT IS SO MUCH BETTER THANK YOU, when the truth is its not much better at all but because you put work or effort into making them feel better they don't want to hurt your feelings by saying what you did was not sufficient.

    You must be able to "read" the customers thoughts to determine if they are truly comfortable with the adjustment. So to must you be able to read your customer if they are TRULY satisfied with the frame choice that they are making.

    A cautionary tale. Our office does not work on commission. A customer was handed off to an optician after being dilated and started looking for a frame. The optician quickly pushed the customer into a frame saying this is the one! It's perfect! The customer mentioned several times that they were dilated and really couldn't see well enough to make a decision. Several days later the customer was back and returned the glasses because she hated them and the way they looked.

    In this case several mistakes were made. The patient was dilated and uncomfortable looking for a frame. Commission or not she should have been told that she could come back another time when she could see clearly for frame selection. Next, the optician told her that the frame was perfect! It is not up to the optician to decide what is perfect. it's up to the customer.

    Back to empathy. Keep your finger on the patient’s temperament toward what they are trying on. Listen to what they say and more importantly how they say it. Give them time to look if they want it, you don’t have to hover. They will let you know if they want help or, with a rude or sarcastic gesture, if they do not want help. If you start bringing over frames for them to try on that are the wrong color, size, decoration, shape or semirimless after they told you already they do not want semirimless, they will loose all faith and confidence in your ability as an optician and a person. How’s the rest of that sale gonna go for you? Not well.

    So, be mindfull. Be friendly. Be helpful, and know when to be helpful. Over time you’ll get a better feel of the flow and what works with what kind of person. Don’t try to sell a drill mount to the 80 year old fogey whos been in a 70 eye mens double bridge with 7/28 trifocal glass lenses for the last 56 years(we carry a special line of very handsome men’s double bridge frames just for them).

    Alright, off my soap box.

  6. #6
    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    ^^^ Chaotic, it couldn't be said any better. Excellent!

  7. #7
    looking up the answers smallworld's Avatar
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    Honestly for me its simple. I look at the person, I see who they are, and I know within a few seconds the right frame for them. For me its instinct. Im sure my brain is calculating a million factors of style, personality, facial characteristics. But mostly I just know.
    What is reality but a concept unique to each of us? Can anything be classed as real when our perceptions differ greatly on so many things? Just because we see something a particular way does not make it so.

  8. #8
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    All of the above...then the 14 year old girl says, "I don't CARE! I want the big red one!!!"
    Ophthalmic Optician, Society to Advance Opticianry

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    Wow, absolutely incredible responses. Some fantastic food for thought - thank you all so far.
    Daniel M.

  10. #10
    Master OptiBoarder mshimp's Avatar
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    Its whatever looks good and fits good. Be honest. If something looks terrible on them, tell them. Learn the basic rules and then break them when you want.

  11. #11
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    ADDENDUM:

    Please also consider the RX the patient is going into. Higher RX's will look far more aesthetic in smaller eyesizes blah blah blah etc etc

  12. #12
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    Ask questions to determine clients needs. Is it their primary pair, for business (occupation) or liesure? Will rx limit size? Choices are funky, bold, minimilst,retro, conservative , vgeometric and assortment of colours.Try on different catogories and listen to client's feed back. Be objective and helpful. The text books will explain the different facial shapes and guidelines for frame selection. The shapes are oval,square and tri-angular (base up or base down)
    Last edited by ex-optician; 01-17-2016 at 07:07 PM.

  13. #13
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    Many good suggestions. I think of the head as a 3 dimensional form and the frame has to fit and circumnavigate that shape. Always take a top view when fitting a frame to the patient. Keep in mind what their Rx is and remember that there is a symbiotic relation between the frame and lens, visualize how that lens is going to effect the face form; higher minus will flatten front and create more outward splay plus Rx's will create more pano. Knowledge of materials is essential; if your selling it or not, you need to familiarize yourself with all frame materials.
    Most styling will come from the patient's sense of aesthetics. You will find that most people are drawn to or repelled from some shapes or styles, just watch for their expressions. If they require assistance, look for facial features that the frame will enhance; such as jaw lines, cheek bones, and the overall geometry of their face.
    I like to ask life style questions. We also discuss eyeglasses as accessories and get them to start thinking about creating a wardrobe. Remember that the customer may indicate their needs but it is your job to discuss with them their wants.
    As a young optician I used to research other opticals, take notes of the brands they carried and how they display products. It is important to know the history behind the product you carry, who the lead designer is and what their inspiration are. The idea is to make your optical more of a destination. I like to create clear and distinct separation from the lines that I carry. The mistake that many frames buyers make is choosing styles that they like. You have to remember that you are trying to sell to a larger demographic and you don't want your selection too homogenized.
    I didn't attend the funeral, but I sent a nice letter saying I approved of it. Mark Twain

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter ak47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaoticneutral View Post
    Brooks and Boorish is certainly the best place to start. After studying that it helped, but, of course, working with a patient in real life in real time is a far cry from what you will learn in a text book. When selecting a frame I first ask if they have ever worn glasses before and if they have some idea of what they are looking for. Plastic or metal? Something Bold? Fun? Professional? Asking questions is the best way to determine what the customer is looking for. Do they like to have nose pads or not? Some people know exactly what they want, some have absolutely no idea. Are you working with an office professional who wants something fashion forward or a construction worker that requires something more durable and rugged?

    BE AWARE of allergies the patient may or not have to materials this is important! They may come right out and tell you but ASK if they have allergies to materials. Be thorough! Nickel allergies are common, choose alternative materials like titanium, plastic, stainless steel and tr-80 and more that I cant think of because its late and im tired. There are lots of alternatives.

    The science and art of frame selection is both objective and subjective respectively. Shape and size of the persons head, PD, DBL and bridge width, nose shape and ear position are all objective determining factors. Subjective factors include but are not limited to size of ego, depth of vanity, narcissism, career, age, gender (or non gender as the case may be), emotional state, habits, hobbies, hairstyle, eye color, height, skin tone, hair color, drinking habits, tax bracket, hearing aids, pets, lifestyle, intelligence (or non intelligence as the case may be), physical fitness, social rank, celebrity status, sense of humor, religious affiliation, health conditions, cognitive judgment, personality, homeopathic balance etc etc etc ad nauseum.

    Personally, I try to find frame shapes that replicate the more attractive features of the face. I look for symmetry, eye position in the frame, temple length to ensure the bend sculpts to the back of the ear correctly, weight of the frame, and of course, patient satisfaction with their choice. I also try to choose shapes that are in direct opposition with the shape of the patients face. More rectangular shaped frames for round faces, round for rectangular faces. People that have “diamond” or “heart” shaped faces I look for something with a little geometry and sharper corners. If they are wearing single vision lenses ill try to guide them to something smaller in shape and size. With progressive or bi-focal I’ll look for something with a bigger B measurement but also a frame whose temples are mounted to the top of the lens as opposed to the middle so the eye sits higher in the frame.

    If the patient chooses a plastic frame ensure their nose fits flush in the bridge. If there are gaps between nose and bridge the patient will end up with irritation and no one is going to be happy with that.

    You must have a certain amount of empathy in order to help a person with frame choice. After all, they are going to be wearing these in public all day for long periods of time. Unless they simply do not care what they look like (which is the case sometimes) they will want something that looks good.

    There was a study done (i cant remember the source or I would reference it) where people told their doctor after treatment that they felt better because they did not want to hurt the doctors feelings regardless of whether they felt better or not. You may notice after an adjustment that people will quickly say OH THAT IS SO MUCH BETTER THANK YOU, when the truth is its not much better at all but because you put work or effort into making them feel better they don't want to hurt your feelings by saying what you did was not sufficient.

    You must be able to "read" the customers thoughts to determine if they are truly comfortable with the adjustment. So to must you be able to read your customer if they are TRULY satisfied with the frame choice that they are making.

    A cautionary tale. Our office does not work on commission. A customer was handed off to an optician after being dilated and started looking for a frame. The optician quickly pushed the customer into a frame saying this is the one! It's perfect! The customer mentioned several times that they were dilated and really couldn't see well enough to make a decision. Several days later the customer was back and returned the glasses because she hated them and the way they looked.

    In this case several mistakes were made. The patient was dilated and uncomfortable looking for a frame. Commission or not she should have been told that she could come back another time when she could see clearly for frame selection. Next, the optician told her that the frame was perfect! It is not up to the optician to decide what is perfect. it's up to the customer.

    Back to empathy. Keep your finger on the patient’s temperament toward what they are trying on. Listen to what they say and more importantly how they say it. Give them time to look if they want it, you don’t have to hover. They will let you know if they want help or, with a rude or sarcastic gesture, if they do not want help. If you start bringing over frames for them to try on that are the wrong color, size, decoration, shape or semirimless after they told you already they do not want semirimless, they will loose all faith and confidence in your ability as an optician and a person. How’s the rest of that sale gonna go for you? Not well.

    So, be mindfull. Be friendly. Be helpful, and know when to be helpful. Over time you’ll get a better feel of the flow and what works with what kind of person. Don’t try to sell a drill mount to the 80 year old fogey whos been in a 70 eye mens double bridge with 7/28 trifocal glass lenses for the last 56 years(we carry a special line of very handsome men’s double bridge frames just for them).

    Alright, off my soap box.

    Very, very well said...and worded.

  15. #15
    Compulsive Truthteller OptiBoard Gold Supporter Uncle Fester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRobotious View Post
    Of all the aspects of opticianry that one should aim to master, frame selection seems to be the most difficult. I've read the excellent chapter in System for Ophthalmic Dispensing on frame selection, however I still find it difficult to produce good frame selections while helping people out on the shop floor. I try and browse 20/20 to look at ads showing well-selected frames, but it still seems difficult to pick out appropriate frames under "pressure", regardless of how much theory I study.

    Does anyone have any suggestions to improve frame selection skills? Too often I'll pick out a string of frames and every one turns out to be less than ideal, and this leaves a poor impression on the patient. Is it just a matter of practice, practice, practice...?
    I'll give it a shot---

    If they're wearing glasses ask if they like their "look" or are interested in a change. Ask for and note the prescription. Select accordingly.

    If they like what they're wearing don't reinvent the wheel. Find something similar.
    If they want a change try a metal then a plastic. Any preference? Concentrate on that material.

    If they don't fit tell them that and don't even let them look in the mirror! They'll love you for your honest opinion and you won't be stuck trying to make a bad frame fit. If they want a frame that you know is not going to work but they "really" like them tell them it makes their nose look big in a friendly way and watch them move on to another!

    Once you've found 2 or 3 frames that are excellent and they want to keep looking don't be afraid to tell them these are my recommendations- but if you want to keep looking feel free to browse. That takes the pressure of you hovering over them away and gives them space to think about their new look. Do tell them to notice though, how the x, y and z features on the ones you like are best for their shaped face and your prescription.

    Make sure you have enough temple length so they will not be back every other week to have them tightened.

    Otherwise- What Chaotineutral says!!!
    Last edited by Uncle Fester; 01-21-2016 at 02:12 PM.

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