Repairs....Repairs......Repairs, are we still doing it ?

[Ryan.P.]

Your very welcome Chris.
I'v read these threads for years and I have never put my 2 cents on anything until last night. I was told eyeglass repair. Wasn't worth the time I spent on it from everyone. It wasn't until I showed them what i could do for the practice that I earned my respect. I remember the look in my Doctors eye when a customer came in for eyeglass repair, and walked out with a eye examination and a pairs of glasses. Sales ticket $1400. Instant gratification. People don't just go to big retailers because they don't have money. I bet more than half of them are there cause there parents, friends, or even coworks went there. Just remember don't sale to a person from what's in your pocket. Offer your customer the best care and inform them how technology has changed. Let them choose what they spend. If they need a deal give them one. Two many people judge a book by the cover. Anyways just had to put a few lines because I love my job and I love helping people. Plus most of yall are far away from my location I don't have to worry about compaticain. If your around a lot of big retails your in the right location. 99% of my customers walk through the door with my card in hand from a big retailer. U might have to do work for those big companies here and there. To help someone out. However it will pay off. When a customer come to you because there place can't do it. What do you think they think? Yes they think you must be THE man if u can do what my guy can't do. Thus a patient for life. Word of mouth is your best advertisement. If you ever need anything from me PM me. Thanks Ryan

[Chris Ryser]

To help someone out. However it will pay off. When a customer come to you because their place can't do it. What do you think they think? Yes they think you must be THE man if u can do what my guy can't do. Thus a patient for life. Word of mouth is your best advertisement.

One very good argument, compare d to the most negative ones earlier in this thread.

Using repairs as positive publicity instead of downgrading it.

[Chris Ryser]

One well and sure repair type service used to be "what do we do with the old ones" when people purchased new glasses.

We suggested to strip the AR coating and tint the lenses as sunglasses. Bifocals with a lower addition were perfect sunglasses for reading at arm length on a beach chair. That was an extra sale that could easily be done in house and fast.

[Gizzo]

Send it to Hilco. Charge $65. If they can't leave them then they need a new pair. Put the lenses into a loaner if you have to. When gold and monel ruled I'd say sure, solder away. Too many downsides to it these days otherwise.

+1

[Ryan.P.]

Repair's have been great for me. I currently do 12 -15 repairs a day. Weather it's from a customer. One of the big named labs, other O. D. , Wally World, JCP, LenCraft, All the optical a in mall, sunglasses hot. But to make it worth doing you have to get out and meet people , and work it like its own business. U can't work it half way. I currently use a argon Lazer welder. This unit will do so many things, Gold , silver ,platinum ,titanium , if u have a screw head broke in a frame. I can weld a paper clip to the treads even if it's not sticking out. and twist it out. No drilling. A good Argon welder will run you 25k-30k. But mine pays for it self in 2 or 3 months. So let me tell you it is worth your time to do repairs. But the big reward is when you have someone come back in 6 months and they spend $600 on a new pair of glasses. This happens almost everyday, most spend $300-$400 the next time they come in. However one of our highest sales ever in our office was a person that was given My card at Costco. They came in had there glasses repaired, had exam, and husband and wife bought 2 pairs each Tag heuer drill mounts. If you have no one in your area doing it already. make some cards and go into all chains and all O. D. In the area. What u can't fix I can. I'm happy to help anyone. If anyone's interested,,PM me. I'll get u my business name and phone number and the first repair is free. Just pay shipping


I see where people say they pay X amount to send out and have there patients glasses fixed. So I'll make a offer to everyone that reads this post:

This offer is for everyone on optiboard. I will fix one paiR!!FREE!!! Anything you want. Stainless ,titanium,and even GOLD! FREE!! FREE!! (You pay To and from shipping). I will warranty all my repairs twice as long as whoever you currently are using��

All I ask. if you like my work give me your repair business. If you don't, your glasses are fixed for free. My regular price for professional courtesy. Which are the same for the big named labs. (It don't make since to pay your lab more for a repair when they outsource them too me. Exspecially the ones in ( Texas and Minnesota ).


pricing$$$$$
PER BREAK..

Stainless steel $25.00
Gold 14k. $30.00
Gold 18k. $35.00
Titanium $40.00

(YOU PAY SHIPPING TO AND FROM)!
if you send 20 jobs per month I will pay 50% of shipping

If I receive your package by 10am. I will fix and have shipped out same day.

As a optical that makes a lot of glasses. I understand what a job will call for. Or how a prescription will effect a frame and how the size of a lens will stress frame

[Uncle Fester]

Great offer Ryan!

In keeping with my role as Debbie Downer here- If you had to replace all the equipment and other stuff you use to fix everything how much would you need to invest? Guestimate is fine.

[Tallboy]

So if I spent 25k on an Argon welder, it would take me 416 titanium welding jobs at $60 a pop to break even on it. You do that many repairs in 3 months? Wow more power to you man!

I think I'll stick with my tubes of epoxies and shrinktube for now... but its an interesting idea. I just don't foresee that kind of volume on repairs. Especially when the broken part of the frame can often be purchased by the client from the manufacturer (through me) for around or less than 60 bucks.

[Ryan.P.]

I rarely get a part from a huge chain that I can just order. These chains buy stuff I can get. Even Gucci has a line for privates and a line for big chains. I do a lot of repairs every single day. What I want you to focus on if the big chains will send there customer to you. That's worth buying the Lazer right there. Anyone that's ever payed for Marketing knows what I'm talking about. We payed for commercials on a local TV station. During primetime TV. Look that up see what that cost 25k is nothing compared to that. Even mass marketing flyers if u do ether of these for more than a month or two. Then tell me the 12-15 people that walk through your door per day isn't worth 25k. I do charge a lot more too a customer off the street. I don't do repairs for the same price that ,I do them for my labs sending me multiplayer pairs a day. Also if the job is mailed in I charge a lot less. The average person sent from a local chain. My repairs start at $69. And go up to $120. A lot of the time I just do a cut down too. Depends on how attached they are to that frame. Some people get scared because there place says no no that's bad to do. But I respect your opinion. I personally know another place who does only repairs. No glasses no doctor. Just repairs. They are doing 40k-50k a month. If u ever get a taste of it. U will change your opinion. I also do cell phones repairs , and jewelry with the Lazer. So that brings even more people through my door. Thanks. Agree to disagree

[Chris Ryser]

In 1984 I advertised the first AR stripper for in office use, and Essilor threatened me with a court case that there was no need for such a thing.

For many years there was a wide use of this products by optical retailers to give the service of removal.

However lately this has changed, the retailers are using this type of product much less and the big labs, on a world wide basis have stepped up the use of AR strippers dramatically.

AR coatings can be stripped safely in seconds with very little effort and lenses can look again like brand new.

There can also be a fair service income to be made.

[Ryan.P.]

So which A/R removal products do y'all like to use? And where do you buy it from?

I charge My customer $40 to remove AR, it must come all the way off,or it's free.

Do you let your customer know or have them sign away liability, releasing your company if the lens get worse, or something happens to frame

[Tallboy]

In 1984 I advertised the first AR stripper for in office use, and Essilor threatened me with a court case that there was no need for such a thing.

For many years there was a wide use of this products by optical retailers to give the service of removal.

However lately this has changed, the retailers are using this type of product much less and the big labs, on a world wide basis have stepped up the use of AR strippers dramatically.

AR coatings can be stripped safely in seconds with very little effort and lenses can look again like brand new.

There can also be a fair service income to be made.

Because it doesn't work on Crizal, as you have stated yourself in the past. Does it work on Hoya EX3, Zeiss Duravision or any of the higher end House Coating stacks? If I am wrong chris please correct me.


And Ryan - THanks for the PM. I am not unwilling to learn about the lazer welding, that sounds like a good thing going you have! There is a guy who has two stores in marlyand who fixes frames, I always was interested in working for him. Nobody near us though except for a jewlery store who does it but I haven't been impressed with their work.

I will research more, can you PM or post the exact machine you use?

[Chris Ryser]

So which A/R removal products do y'all like to use? And where do you buy it from?

I charge My customer $40 to remove AR, it must come all the way off,or it's free.

Do you let your customer know or have them sign away liability, releasing your company if the lens get worse, or something happens to frame

Originally posted on OptiBoard 07-13-2007, 01:55 PM


As the originator of the OMS AR stripper which accidentally was the first such thing on the market since 1084. I can give the following comment on my product.

The OMS (regular for CR39) stripper , contains an acid mix of a total 11.5% of an acid mix combined with a solvent mixture. This combination is the weakest and least corrosive of all such products on the market. It will NOT create an immediate danger if it gets into contact with the skin.

However it will remove AR coatings in 5-10 seconds. This version is for CR39 lenses only, which contain polysiloxane hard coats that can also be removed if the lens is left 1-2 hours in the stripper. (The stripper will stop working when the solvents have evaporated).

It can easily be diluted with plain water.............however once made weaker you can not improve the concentration anymore.

Very often these lenses are scratched and removing the AR plus the hard coat will leave you with a totally new unscratched lens, which then can easily be tinted and re-used by the patient as a second pair or sunglasses.



See all of it at: ======è
http://optochemicals.com/products/info_ar_stripper.htm

[Uncle Fester]

So which A/R removal products do y'all like to use? And where do you buy it from?

I charge My customer $40 to remove AR, it must come all the way off,or it's free.

Do you let your customer know or have them sign away liability, releasing your company if the lens get worse, or something happens to frame

I got a bottle of stripper (Hydrofluoric acid?) many years ago from BPI. I never had any success with any material than cr39 and even that couldn't be too old. It sits in the basement and one of these days I'm going to safely dispose of it...One of these days for sure!

As this is a public forum anyone who thinks this is something they can do at home DON"T!!! It dissolves glass and will react to metal. Inhalation can be deadly. Nasty, nasty stuff! Just say'n.

[mervinek]

I never thought AR stripper worked well with any material other than CR39, although its been years since I've used it. Are there any that are made for other materials like poly, 1.67? Just curious. Doubt I would ever do it in house. I do remember years ago.. sneezed over a container of stripper. My nose burned all day! YUCK!

[Chris Ryser]

I got a bottle of stripper (Hydrofluoric acid?) many years ago from BPI. I never had any success with any material than cr39 and even that couldn't be too old. It sits in the basement and one of these days I'm going to safely dispose of it...One of these days for sure!

As this is a public forum anyone who thinks this is something they can do at home DON"T!!! It dissolves glass and will react to metal. Inhalation can be deadly. Nasty, nasty stuff! Just say'n.

That is full strength HF Powder diluted in Water and make a nasty solution of HF.

Our solution contains only about 5-6% HF and you can not get immediate bad burns. However it will damage the hard coat on Polycarbonate lenses and turn it white opaque.

So it is nothing nasty nor deadly and easy to use.

[Uncle Fester]

I do remember years ago.. sneezed over a container of stripper. My nose burned all day! YUCK!

I pity any toxin that gets into my bloodstream.

[ml43]

When dealing with any type of acid or organic solvent, please use the appropriate PPE's

ive seen way to many chem lab accidents.

a sep funnel blew up on me in my second ochem experient.
had mild chemical burns and lost feeling in my hand for a few days.

Especially when dealing with hydroflouric acid, gloves are a must.
Ideally you want to work under a fume hood as well.

[Chris Ryser]

Especially when dealing with hydroflouric acid, gloves are a must.
Ideally you want to work under a fume hood as well.

You are totally right ml43..................not only with the nasty acid or other nasty acids, but also with many other things opticians play around with, like "Acetone" that gets absorbed into the skin in seconds due to its low evaporation point and many more.

However there are AR coatings removed by the thousands across the world every day and I have never even heard from any serious accident in all the years it is done.
Proper protection in the workplace is the law in Canada at least.

[MrOptician]

Hello,

Nice thread.

How about treatment after soldering?

Is there any easier way to dye the Metal frames such as titanium,Aluminum...etc?

How about Dye the plastic or acetate frame?

and i got the Hot fingers to repairs in plastic,acetate frames.

I also use it for removing the bulge before sanding.

Thanks

[Ryan.P.]

I currently use a Lazerstar 7000 argon welder. I buy titanium solder. However I also have different types of wire. The color of the wire is what keeps the color the same. They make more than 10 different types of wire. Just imagine if u could buy pallareium the same color as the frame. That would be amazing. Most people use silver soldering wire. As I do too. But in the case of a mismatched color I go over the silver with another color wire. The silver is the cheapest wire to use that works well, it melts at a lower temperature this makes the solder job a lot cleaner less to paint. To many people will not turn the Lazer down and hammer out the visible part of the silver. I leave the excess on the back for renforcement. I've tryed every type of paint when I was torch soldering. It all comes off over time. Model car paint worked the best. But u have to mix clear spray paint with it. And leave it in a air frame warmer for 20 minutes. But dust will stick to it during this 20 minutes, SO BE CAREFUL!
On the zyl and acetate frames if you use a jewlers torch, with a #01 or #02 tip this will give you a precise flame and it will heat the metal quicker. On a hidden hinge you only get the tip of the piece that your trying to sink in the plastic. Once the tip gets red not bright red, sink quickly. Have players handy de cause u can still adjust it for 10 seconds. Once it's where u want it. Dip in cold water. If the hole is too big take a old plastic frame the same color file off plastic savings. Put in the hole with 1 drop of glue, ( satellite city glue is best for everything optical. green label CA glue. Com. Only place u can get it. It will put a zyl frame broke at bridge together) using the same color frame shavings will eliminate painting any zyl frames. If u have any excess cut off with razed heat a piece of flat meter I use a old metal PD stick. Sorry so long. It's a lot to get in there. If the temple doesn't open all the way. Save the temple a very little with dremel. Hope this helps.

[Chris Ryser]

Nice thread.


How about Dye the plastic or acetate frame?

My lens dyes will also work for frames, only much faster than lenses........no problem.

[MrOptician]

My lens dyes will also work for frames, only much faster than lenses........no problem.

Amazing!

It will not disappear with time?

Does it cause any side effects to the skin?

How about the Metal frames?

[Ryan.P.]

What's the technique for applying the lens die on the frame? Chris do you have a full catalog. Do you sell any and everything. Or do you just sell certain things. My vendor I buy screws from has switched up what he sends me. I'm wondering what happened to SM-698 self alignment, self tapping screw. Those used to be my go to. Let me know if you have a source on those ?? Thanks

[Chris Ryser]

Amazing!

It will not disappear with time?

Does it cause any side effects to the skin?

How about the Metal frames?

All our dyes are made with new technology pigments and compositions while all others used in the optical trade as far as I know, still use 1970 to 1980 technology.

We have the standard dye-pot version as well as the much higher temperature one we call MicroTints which are used in a microwave oven, and you can tint high index lenses in 4 to 8 minutes to dark shades.
My website has close to 400 pages and you can find most of the links on my main page at http://optochemicals.com/main.htm .

There no problems whatsoever with the skin.

For metal frames you will need a good metal paint, I can not help you there.

The dye pot version is sold in the USA by Amcon Labs.

[Chris Ryser]

What's the technique for applying the lens die on the frame? Chris do you have a full catalog. Do you sell any and everything. Or do you just sell certain things. My vendor I buy screws from has switched up what he sends me. I'm wondering what happened to SM-698 self alignment, self tapping screw. Those used to be my go to. Let me know if you have a source on those ?? Thanks

My website is my full catalogue at http://optochemicals.com and you find most links on the main page.
We do sell only our own developed and manufactured products and they are all on the website.