Hi
Just wondering how difficult is it to change the edging wheel in an edger (specifically Santinelli LE)? If it is not feasible to change it by yourself, does anyone know a company or someone who can do this in Philadelphia area? Thanks.
Hi
Just wondering how difficult is it to change the edging wheel in an edger (specifically Santinelli LE)? If it is not feasible to change it by yourself, does anyone know a company or someone who can do this in Philadelphia area? Thanks.
takes 5 minutes and could not be easier.
It does look easy, although I admit I paid a Lab Rat to do it for me.
(Charged me $60 but it took less than 30 mins to do it.)
If you are handy with the tools you can DYI.
Changing the wheel is easy, but you will have to re calibrate all the sizes etc which can take sometime, especially if you are not familiar with those menus.
Easy peasy, its the easiest thing to do, and after will give you more confidence to do more repairs on your edger in the future.
If you don't learn to do it yourself and calibrate it afterwords, you will always be at the mercy of hired technicians. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, but in a small(er) lab, you are far better off being as self-sufficient as you can.
Get a set of the maintenance and operations manuals for it and follow the procedures step by step. It isn't all that hard. I just changed out the roughing wheel on a WECO 450 and it took about an hour, including recalibration.
Hi,
Thanks all to responding to my post..
Could anyone post some general instruction (actually, if someone can possibly post a detailed instruction, that would be greatly appreciated) as to how to replace the wheel? Does the plastic grinding chamber have to removed first?
I am new at this edger repair stuff....I have an Santinelli Nidek LE9000..>Need to change the wheel and have no manual..>What is best way to keep wheel from turning as I loosen bolt...also, is this threaded correctly or reverse thread
Should have a retainer nut the wheel screw goes through. It should be notched on 2 sides to hold and keep the wheel from turning as you loosen/tighten the screw which on all my Santi's are correct threaded (not reverse).
Ahh...i see it....May need new glasses when i get wheel replaced! Thanks!
It's an easy task. There's nothing to worry about. It will also helpful in improve your skills and practices.
My wheels are frozen and won't come off.
What is the best trick to get them off, I know all about putting white lithium on them so this doesn't happen, but I wasn't the one who put these particular ones on to begin with. Please help!
Got it off with an oil filter wrench nice!
Awesome! I’ve had to resort to liquid wrench and a mallet in the past to remove stubborn wheels (even with grease). Never considered a filter wrench. I’ll have to put one in my edger tool box!
Hey guys ever since I changed the wheels on my nidek 9000 it is cutting much louder (and I guess aggressively) than before. The lenses are coming out great but my ears hurt! is it just the nature of the new wheels? (They are inland)
That doesn't sound normal. if it was me I would take it back apart and make sure everything is clean. put it back together. might be an out of balance wheel. just a thought
Slotted or solid? I have always found slotted wheels to be louder.
they are the solid diamond wheels, but they are from Inland and my old ones were Nidek.
The finish wheel does seem a teensy bit raised higher than the other two, Maybe I will take it apart tomorrow and check.
There are no odd noises unless lenses are being fed into the wheels, and then its just louder. Enough that my ears are a bit more sensitive, but nobody else seems to notice it. Maybe I'm going crazy.
Seems like the bolt was a little bit too loose and then had shaken free. I tightened it down extra tight and noise is gone voila! Thanks for the help guys.
Last edited by Tallboy; 02-02-2018 at 10:07 PM.
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