Adjusting laminated wood-copper spectacle frames

[Jaaky]

I hope that someone will be able to advice... I am not an optician...
I bought a vintage high quality spectacle frame, made in France, "Vendome" brand.
The frame is laminated in wood-copper layers.
My local optician has difficulties adjusting (bending) them to fit the lenses as he is afraid that when using steam, the glue will come loose.

Is there anyone who could advice me about this?
I will then pass on the advice to my optician.

thanks,
Jaaky (the Netherlands)

[harry a saake]

:D jaaky, our resident expert on frames is Jerry huang, and perhaps he will see this , if not you can email him at eyetailor@aol.com

[Jaaky]

Thanks for replying Harry.
Hi Jerry, if you read this... I would very much appreciate your advice.
Background info... Allthough I'm very happy with my Titanflex frame that I wear at the moment, I wanted a frame that was a bit more "prominent" in my face (as I'm getting greyer lately;) ). As all the glasses that I found in the shops here, are "Harry Potter" size, and I prefer them bigger, I finaly found this vintage (but new and unworn) frame in the shop of the Eye-glasses museum in Amsterdam. Fell in love with it right away, I think that the frame is from the 6o's. It is obvious, even to my laymans eye, that this frame is of very good quality.
So my optician ordered Rodenstock "Progressive Life" lenses for me, but is afraid to damage the frame in adjusting the lower rim to fit the curvature of the lenses, so now frame and lenses are already at his workshop for weeks on end while he is contemplating a solution.
The frame is made of about six thin layers of wood and copper. My optician is afraid to use steam because the layers may separate, or just to bend because the wood might crack.
I would be so gratefull for advice!!!

Regards,
Jaaky

[Mikol]

:) Hello Jaaky,

My background includes the custom coloring of frames and am currently manageing a Boutique here in Scottsdale. Over the years I have made quite a bit of difficult jobs and may I suggest a method I use often.

Plain and simple...snap fit the lenses.........Great patience is needed but have the optician edge the lenses to size and with little pressure he should be able to just snap the lens into place.
No heating involved=no damage to your frame.

Good luck
Mikol
:cheers:

[Jaaky]

Thanks Mikol,

Understandably, that sounds scary to a layman like me, but perhaps that is a way to go.

I will print out this whole thread for my optician (who, I think, is a very good craftsman) so he can benefit from all the profesional and highly apreciated advice that I get from you and other members of this forum.

... i promise that in the end I will surely upload a little snapshot of me wearing these remarkable vintage glasses :bbg:

Regards,
Jaaky

[Laurie]

Welcome!

I have dispensed eyewear made of real tortoise and wood, and can tell you that your optician is smart not to simply heat the wood.

Sometimes wood frames actually have a split with a screw for inserting lenses under the bridge.

If not, "cold snap" works. A little tip: we used to cold snap for buffalo horn and tortoise frames, and we placed the lenses in a refridgerator for a while to shrink them slightly prior to inserting.

[Jaaky]

Hi Laurie,

>>> ...and can tell you that your optician is smart not to simply heat the wood.<<<

He looks smart... :D

>>>Sometimes wood frames actually have a split with a screw for inserting lenses under the bridge.<<<

This it has indeed...
The problem is at the bottom of the lenses, where the frame needs to accomodate the curvature of the lenses. The frame, as it is now, is completely straight there.

>>>...we placed the lenses in a refridgerator for a while to shrink them slightly prior to inserting<<<

Sounds like a clever trick, thanks.

Regards,
Jaaky

[JERRY HUANG]

If not, "cold snap" works. A little tip: we used to cold snap for buffalo horn and tortoise frames, and we placed the lenses in a refridgerator for a while to shrink them slightly prior to inserting.---------Laurie said.

Yes, Laurie is right on lens insertion. Also make sure your optician cuts lens just a little smaller and try to smooth off the shape V edge before cold snap.

As for temple adjustment, please try oil steam instead of water steam. Oil steam the wood/copper temple til soft enough and then place both temples inside of cooking pot which is big enough to hold a basketball. Yes! squeeze both temples between cooking pot and basketball overnight and set them dry for 24 hours.

My friend, Mr. Marc Fortier, is the wood frame expert from Canada. He is able to make wood temple going around the finger. I would suggest you to send your frame for lens insertion and adjustment. Marc can be reached at : info@sherlab.ca Optiques Sherwood.

[Jaaky]

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for all the good advice!
As I said, I will print out this thread for my optician here in Amsterdam, and also will urge him to come visit this forum (I believe he is "on the web") if he has more questions about the procedures.

>>>...Also make sure your optician cuts lens just a little smaller and try to smooth off the shape V edge before cold snap.<<<

I'm sure that he will apreciate your suggestion!

>>>...which is big enough to hold a basketball<<<

Here in europe we might have to go for a soccerball <g>

>>>My friend, Mr. Marc Fortier...... I would suggest you to send your frame for lens insertion and adjustment<<<

I'll keep that as an option in the (unlikely) case that my man here in Holland would give up on the project.

So much obliged for all the feedback, Lady and Gentlemen.
I'll keep lurking for a while to see if there are more suggestions coming up, and definatively will keep you posted on the outcome!

Kind regards from the city of Heineken. :cheers:
Jaaky

P.S. You never made me feel like an intruder, not being an eyewear professional, for wich I'm gratefull :shiner:

[Jaaky]

Would like to add the following...
It seems that I was not that clear about what the difficulty really is...

Snapping the lenses into place is not the main problem, as there are splits and screws to fit the lenses.

But the lenses (made of glass) are multifocal and therefore are extra curved at the bottom. The rim there is quite thick (3 wooden layers separated by 2 copper layers) and it is there where my optician is hesitant to adjust before he is confident about the right way.

BTW I went to see him today... he is, as it turns out, not web-connected...

Any futher advice very appreciated...

Regards,
Jaaky

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi Jaaky,

Most wood sheet is 0.6 mm thickness and 20 gauge for copper plates. I believe it should be strong enough to take the impact.

Apply some baby oil on the curve rim and heat it with hot air a little bit before lens insertion. rim near both hinges and bridge area should be heated as well. That's the area morelikely to break apart.

[Jaaky]

Thanks Jerry,

Much obliged... I'll pass it on.

Jaaky

[Diane]

I'm going to be just a little curious.

Jerry, you may be the one to answer this question. In the original post, jaaky mentioned that it was a vintage frame. With it being partially wooden, would that have an impact on it. Could the aging process have dried out the wood to the point of not being able to manipulate it. I realize that you mentioned applying baby oil, but would soaking it or something else help restore any oils that may have been lost from aging, or is that a consideration of even new wooden frames?

Anyway, I seem not to be forming my thoughts as well as I like. (Maybe I need another cup of coffee.)

Could you just "go there" for some advice. Also, was it a unused frame or previously worn, and would that have any impact on it?

Just some questions?

Diane

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi Diane,

Soak the wood frame with baby oil will help to soften the wood. I think the frame should be strong enough to aborb the impact because of two copper layers in between.

Well, I am also too brave to spell things out sometimes. I have also tore hundreds of expensive frames in different materials from past years. That is how I end up in frame manufacturing.:bbg:

[Diane]

Thanks Jerry.

Great way to get into a business.

Diane