Kazuo Kawasaki dismantling and drill hole size/location help?

[snowmonster]

Hello! It's been a while...

I've got a patient that needs new lenses in his Kazuo Kawasaki frame - MP631 in a 48 eye size.

Anyone know the hole sizes and locations? I think I remember hearing that Airlock bushings (2.2 mm hole then?) work well.

Thanks for the help!

[scriptfiller]

What type of drill system do you have?

I have devised a little "formula" for doing things like this on a Santinelli Less Stress drill.

[snowmonster]

I have a Less Stress but I now have an ME1200 that almost everything gets done on automatically.

[jefe]

What type of drill system do you have?

I have devised a little "formula" for doing things like this on a Santinelli Less Stress drill.

What's your formula?

While I've also heard the Airlock bushings work, I recently bought some Kawasaki frames and bought some 1.8 bushings from Dynamic Lab to go with them.

[jefe]

One other thing: while I would drill perpendicular to the face of the lens with most other frames,with the Kawasakis you drill straight down on a Less Stress so that the hole runs parallel to the lens edge.

[scriptfiller]

jefe,

More of a recipe than a formula I should say, it works for me 100% of the time YMMV

I measure hole/notch depths with a PD stick
Then use my drill bit set to "feel-out" hole size

Here's the "formula part"

If drilling a notch/hole system, the notch will always be drilled to the measurement taken by the PD stick. Now, most notch/hole systems use different diameter bits, the notch being the smallest. So, you need to caluclate the difference in radii between the bits. Why, I start with the lense edge as my reference point, aligning the bit edge with the lense edge. Well, when you drill a notch you no longer have the lense edge for your reference. So, you need to reposition the drill to the difference in radii of the bits. Example, notch bit size is 1.50 mm radius of .75 hole bit 2.00 mm radius of 1.0 so a difference of .25 you would reposition the drill out from a zero starting point. OK, the hole, switch bits and add the radius of the drill bit to the hole measurement you took with the PD stick. The reason is I measure from the lense edge to the center of the hole, so when drillling the hole there is the difference of the radius of the drill bit to the lense edge.

This may be as clear as mud but it works for me.

[Barry Santini]

Cut some CR-39 or poly plano test lenses, and tweak the co-ordinates. Then make sure you save them in memory. I use a folder marked "PNT" for these drill jobs, as well as saving them under the patient's name in a folder marker "PAT". Then I write on their card EXACTLY how I saved them. For instance, John Wall is saved under "PAT-JWALL1" for his first saved job, and ".....2" for the second, and so on. I back up the thumb drive on my Ice-1000 to my PC periodically.

Perfect system. I also use the Ice 1000's ability to transfer drill co-ordinates from one shape to another, and tweak as necessary.

B

[Barry Santini]

one other thing: While i would drill perpendicular to the face of the lens with most other frames,with the kawasakis you drill straight down on a less stress so that the hole runs parallel to the lens edge.

+1!

B