Nidek LE-9000SX mechanical issue!

**Huffam** · 03-06-2013, 04:57 PM

so this is partially related to my previous post about possibly getting a new edger. the one we are currently running is having issues with safety bevels, and rimless grooving. it does OK work, but there is a jump in the chuck as the lens rotated. i have uploaded a video of what i am referring to on YT (link to follow) we contacted santinelli and they offered 2 ideas. one was that the bearings where going out on the SFB, we replaced those and there was no change in operation. they then told us that becasue of the bearings the curcuit board was drawing too much power and this issue was due to that. not so, we have brand spankin new bearings. the final pearl of wisdom we where told was that the screw (chuck arm? idk what to call it) was dirty or blocked somehow. dismantled machine and there isnt a single speck of dust or anything anywhere near the mentioned parts... anyway if ANYONE knows anyting abiout these machines please let me know what you think may be causeing this jumping. it does still work pretty well, but on thicker lenses it has cause slight chipping on the edges when it jumps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa6Wp79TEd0

thats the video, you notice that as the chuck spins at times it does a slight jump. you will notice the change of pitch as it jumps while rotating. ANY INFO or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. i know the best bet is to ship it to santinelli for service, but thats $1500 i want to avoid paying just to have them take a look at it

**Jubilee** · 03-06-2013, 06:30 PM

There isn't any dust on a spindle/gear?

The motor doesn't sound very healthy either. Perhaps its just the "pitch change" from the contact angle, but it certainly sounds like it is "bogging" down.

**MakeOptics** · 03-06-2013, 08:27 PM

There is obviously some forces working against you here, assuming you have a sharp and clean beveling disc for lack of terminology. I would say the issue lies with the chuck or spindle, is there a schematic available to you that shows the connection between the motor and that spindle? There is a weak link somewhere the schematic can give you a little insight.

**Huffam** · 03-06-2013, 08:46 PM

i have cleaned the internals like a dozen times. i was in the military for several years, and i can assure everyone it is spotless lol, i could break out the white gloves and pass any inspection! also the wheel has been dressed, and everything else is good to go.... maybe the motor is dying? but when the chuck is using the grinding and polishing wheel it doesnt do that "jumping", finding a schematic would be nice, i wil look into that, maybe there is a voltage problem after all? worth looking into thatnks for the idea

**Pogu** · 03-07-2013, 09:09 AM

While it doesn't technically fix the problem, what about sing a bench top groover and hand-stone?

I don't have experience with Nidek equipment so I may be way off here. But, our Kappa does that sometimes if the wrong material is loaded or if the machine for whatever reason presses too hard on the wheel. It binds up and skips like that to release. Perhaps something is off with the calibration of the grooving mechanism? Does the behavior exist on all materials?

**Huffam** · 03-07-2013, 02:34 PM

yes unfortunately it is all materials, plastic, poly, trivex, high index. the only thing i havent tried on it is glass, but we dont really ever do glass lenses :(

**pezfaerie** · 03-07-2013, 03:56 PM

Any error codes? And the sensor is clean where the SFB arm parks? (you'll have to take the cover off)

**Huffam** · 03-08-2013, 05:52 PM

nope no codes, it still "works" or "runs" fine. we never get any stoppages with the equipment its just that jumping in the chuck when the safety bevel wheel pops out. i would LOVE to get an error code then i could narrow down what the deal is.

**JDH** · 03-11-2013, 09:45 AM

Your bearings are fine. After watching the video, it sounds like your SFB assembly is out of calibration. The support desk should be able to walk you through an SFB calibration. You will need to have your Comp jig, (The big machined silver calibration device in your tool box) ready to go when you call them. Also have them walk you through checking the voltage on that assembly. It may require adjustment as well. You will need a small allen wrench to adjust that sensor, if needed.
Make sure you have a couple of minus lens blanks handy for when they walk you through the adjustment. - 2.50 range. Don't use anything too thin or you will fight it. You will have to zero out your groove depth and the safety bevel widths. Then, adjust sfb wheel positions and wheel height accordingly. This all takes some time so make sure you allow yourself enough to do it.
Good luck.

**Blind Spot** · 03-11-2013, 09:54 AM

Huffam

Were you able to resolve the issue yet?

**Huffam** · 03-12-2013, 01:37 PM

i am going to try JDH's recommendation here shortly i just got back into the office today, took a 3 day weekend.

**theFinishingLab** · 04-06-2013, 10:01 AM

Sounds like the SBF assembly needs to be adjusted. To much safety bevel and maybe an axis issue because it seems to be mostly happening in 2 points of the lens.

**Huffam** · 04-08-2013, 12:41 PM

so i just got off the phone with santinelli, and afer calibrating the edger twice its finally working as it should. the skipping has stopped, and its running better than ever. thank you all for your input! im not sure why it took 2 calibrations for it to start working, but now i can calibrate in my sleep lol