Wire Shooting (Temple Core insertion)

**chreil123** · 10-10-2012, 10:36 AM

Hi Everyone,

I would like to start by saying what a great forum you have here!

I am a Mechanical Engineering student and for a class project I am looking to create a benchtop temple core insertion machine to inject metal cores into zyl frames. I am looking to create one similar to those out on the market but at a much lower cost. I have looked all over the internet but unfortunately have not found much information regarding these machines. Is there a reference I could look at regarding typical machine setup? Zyl warming temperature etc?

Also, who would provide the best cores? I have found a lot of companies in China but would like to ensure they are of high quality.

Any information would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris

**Fezz** · 10-10-2012, 11:23 AM

Contact a fellow member, Jerry Huang. He should be able to get you all the info you need!

http://www.optiboard.com/forums/memb...05-JERRY-HUANG

Good luck, keep us posted!

**Fezz** · 10-10-2012, 11:25 AM

Search function works great!!

http://www.optiboard.com/forums/show...ooting-machine

**chreil123** · 10-10-2012, 11:29 AM

Thanks Fezz! I have sent him a message.

**chreil123** · 10-10-2012, 11:34 AM

I had seen this post previously. I have contaced Tomio Chik at Keep Touch and all he could provide me was pricing on a unit that he sells. Since I am looking to completely build one myself, I will require some more specifications on all the specific components of the machine as well as warming temperatures etc.

**JERRY HUANG** · 10-11-2012, 03:17 AM

Hello CHreil123,

The temple core insertion machine has temple profile metal jig, heating element up to 100 degree, an air cylinder rod at 45 psi up to 220 mm long to push the temple core into zyl temple blanks. Let me search around the Chinese made machine for you costs less than 2,500 USD include custom duty and freight (the machine itself is around $1,200 to $1,500 USD and another 1,000 for duty and shipping). You also need to decide what diameter of temple core to use. 1.4mm? 1.6mm??

If you just want to make a few pieces of one-of-the kind, I suggest you to shave zyl sheet in half of the thickness, mill out the 2 pieces of temple core profile in 1/2 diameter and then laminate both pieces together. let it set for air cure and shave the build up residue 48 hours later. Apply shank trimming to match 90 degree angle with frame front and bend ear piece by hand. This is the most economical way to custom build zyle temples.

Have fun

**chreil123** · 10-11-2012, 10:38 AM

Thanks for the reply Jerry! Is the heating element 100 degrees celsius or fahrenheit? Is that the temperature at which zyl becomes pliable? Talking about "laminating" the zyl, is there an adhesive for this material? I have a good concept design now, just need to make sure all specs are correct to ensure proper insertion.

**Jacqui** · 10-11-2012, 07:36 PM

I have the contact info for a small company in India that makes something similar. PM me if you want the info.

**Jacqui** · 10-11-2012, 07:37 PM

Also have contact info for some Indian acetate manufacturers

**MakeOptics** · 10-11-2012, 07:41 PM

Small batch custom frames is best to route set a table top route at 1/2 the depth of the wire and set the guide at 1/2 the width of your temple. You can purchase acetate sheets that are designed for lamination so they are 1/2 to a third the thickness of the frame front. To glue or laminate you use acetone to soak both pieces and place in a vice with wood or metal supports to avoid maring the exposed sides of the temples. When it comes out the temples need additional filing and sanding, use progressively finer sand paper to sand surfaces stopping at 1200 to 1500 grit for a final polish I like to place a small crucible of acetone in a hot air blower and let the fumes swell the surface of the acetate, then rum it over my buffing wheel for a finish. Another method is a rock tumbler from harbor freight with walnut shells, I belive I picked that up from Jerry. For added durability I some times crimp a small metal band around the temple as ornamentation and support.

The injection equipment usually heats the core wire to 20 to 50 degrees hotter then the acetate to ensure a smooth injection, some will also use ultrasonic tocreate friction which cuts through the temples like butter. PM for additional info and I might have a simpler idea for a project that will allow you to duplicate a frame like a copy machine using simple open source equipment.

**JERRY HUANG** · 10-13-2012, 02:52 AM

I suggest you to get a waffle irons wrap with thick layers of cloths to heat up carved temple blanks at....55 to 65 degree celsius for 3 to 5 min. The heat will soften temple blanks like gummy worms. I usually leave it air cool for 20 seconds and then wet acete temple edges over 2mm of cotton pads in a tray with 1 mm high of cold water. The purpose is to cool off the edge of temple blanks only and keep the center hot to ensure temple core shooting straight without traveling warply! Once the core is "injected" into the blank, you might see a little bump on the center of the temple caused by extra plastic had no where to go after the core is inserted! Use a knife blade to scrape the bump off til surface is flat. I would use 400 grit of sandpaper stick to round off sharp corners followed by 600, 1,000 and then 1,500 sanding process before rough and fine polishing. The "injection" machine you mentioned will have the heating element to heat up the temple core up at 85 degree celsius. You will need to drop in one temple core in the matching size/shape of metal jig and wait....45 seconds til the core is evenly hot. The only trick is to keep the center of temple blank hot and then insert the core while it is also very hot to ensure smooth insertion. Make sense?

The challenge is making different profile of temple jig for each new design!!! You will need a jig saw to saw off from a matching thickness of metal plate (3.5 to 4 mm) each time

.
and then apply filing and sanding for smooth edges.....that is why custom frames cost arms and legs

.
The jig is made to hold and secure the temple blank firmly for the heated temple core insert from the other end.

PhiTrace's technique is very correct to laminate 2 pieces of Acetate together with Acetone. Much easier!

**chreil123** · 10-14-2012, 11:34 PM

Thanks PhiTrace and Jerry! It looks like I have my work cut out for me! I will update you guys with some images once I get things going. I'm sure I will require some trouble shooting techniques along the way. Jacqui I have sent you a PM!

**JohnDough** · 04-23-2014, 01:09 AM

I would love the name of the indian company that makes a wire core insertion machine. Thanks!

**JERRY HUANG** · 04-23-2014, 12:10 PM

Click image for larger version.

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**Jacqui** · 04-27-2014, 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by JohnDough

I would love the name of the indian company that makes a wire core insertion machine. Thanks!

Sent you a PM about this, but here it is again http://www.arveemechatech.net They can set you up with anything from a small custom shop to a very large factory.

I have no financial interest in this company, I'm just tired of answering questions.

**chino** · 11-11-2019, 01:51 PM

I recently purchased some insertion tools. Are they any people on the board who have experience with troubleshooting?

**chino** · 11-11-2019, 01:58 PM

Originally Posted by JERRY HUANG

I suggest you to get a waffle irons wrap with thick layers of cloths to heat up carved temple blanks at....55 to 65 degree celsius for 3 to 5 min. The heat will soften temple blanks like gummy worms. I usually leave it air cool for 20 seconds and then wet acete temple edges over 2mm of cotton pads in a tray with 1 mm high of cold water. The purpose is to cool off the edge of temple blanks only and keep the center hot to ensure temple core shooting straight without traveling warply! Once the core is "injected" into the blank, you might see a little bump on the center of the temple caused by extra plastic had no where to go after the core is inserted! Use a knife blade to scrape the bump off til surface is flat. I would use 400 grit of sandpaper stick to round off sharp corners followed by 600, 1,000 and then 1,500 sanding process before rough and fine polishing. The "injection" machine you mentioned will have the heating element to heat up the temple core up at 85 degree celsius. You will need to drop in one temple core in the matching size/shape of metal jig and wait....45 seconds til the core is evenly hot. The only trick is to keep the center of temple blank hot and then insert the core while it is also very hot to ensure smooth insertion. Make sense?

The challenge is making different profile of temple jig for each new design!!! You will need a jig saw to saw off from a matching thickness of metal plate (3.5 to 4 mm) each time

.
and then apply filing and sanding for smooth edges.....that is why custom frames cost arms and legs

.
The jig is made to hold and secure the temple blank firmly for the heated temple core insert from the other end.

PhiTrace's technique is very correct to laminate 2 pieces of Acetate together with Acetone. Much easier!

Mr. Huang. I recently purchased several pieces of equipment for inserting wire core into Japanese acetate and can not get it right. Can I contact you direct as you seem to be the resident expert on this.