How do you care for vintage zyl frames?

**Lynx** · 08-11-2012, 10:01 PM

What is the correct, scientific recommendation for keeping cellulose acetate frames from shrinking and/or warping?

**Chris Ryser** · 08-12-2012, 02:32 AM

Originally Posted by Lynx

What is the correct, scientific recommendation for keeping cellulose acetate frames from shrinking and/or warping?

Vintage cellulose acetate frames made by brand name manufacturers in Europe do not shrink, even in 20 to 30 years of life span. I still have a few thousand brand new frames dating back from the 1970s to the early 1990s and they still act the same way as when they were totally new.

They will not shrink, but will only warp under constant pressure, for example in case that is too small, or a bad or no adjustment. Could happen these days to on-line purchased glasses.

Cellulose acetate sheets have to be stored up to 2 years in controlled humidity and temperature conditions before one can work it to make frames of good quality. Sheet manufacturers would not even sell their sheets before the aging cycle was finished. So brand new colors and designs in the plastic was not made yesterday.

These days acetate sheets are also made in China and India and I have no idea how long these people are storing new product which is the main reason for good quality plastic frames, as the chemical formulas are always the same. If the material is too fresh it can act up. I have seen and handled frames made in the 1940s just post World War II, made in Germany, that still handled like new 45 years later.

Manufacturerd in China

**Lynx** · 08-12-2012, 03:41 AM

How about in 60 years? :)

Maybe I've gotten the terminology wrong but this picture looks like the plastic has shrunk near the hinges:

**uncut** · 08-12-2012, 07:05 AM

When the temple is initially produced in the factory, it is straight, up to the time the core is introduced(metal). The material is then finished, and curved. After assembly any and all downward curving, and subsequent adjusting for a ear fit, will create a molecular tugging at the material.

Therefore, the wider the temporal material, the more ski is put into the temple, and the shorter it is bent, more "material pull-back" along the temple core will be noted. Excessive heat, and cool quenching to hasten wear recovery time, at dispensing, adds to hasten this phenomena.

**uncut** · 08-12-2012, 07:16 AM

I am hoping that a more learned colleague, perhaps a vintage frame restorer will happen along the virtual trail and answer your question, in a more technical and detailed way, than can I.

Anecdotal...............most damage to frames happens from salt(perspiration), acid(skin) and UV damage. This is further exacerbated by dehydration, abrasion, excessive/insufficient heat, and temperature extremes. In other words....................life.

**chip anderson** · 08-12-2012, 10:07 AM

Perhaps keeping them out of direct sunlight and excessive heat is big factor. Very few plastics like direct sunlight for long periods of time. Frames that have been stored (as in an un-cooled/un-heated storage shed) would be more likely to warp than those that have been with a more controlled temperature and/or humidity changes.

Chip

**uncut** · 08-12-2012, 07:22 PM

Originally Posted by Lynx

What is the correct, scientific recommendation for keeping cellulose acetate frames from shrinking and/or warping?

At a customer care/dispenser level:
Careful daily maintenance, which includes, cleaning and rinsing all skin oils, acids,salts, and environmental debris. This is preferably done in the evening before retiring, since accumulations, left overnight, hasten frame aging and demise. This should be followed up by a brisk, firm polish with the appropriate medium. The dispenser, at least quarterly, should be encouraged to ultrasonically clean the eyewear, followed up with a general adjustment maintenance and inspection, and a vigorous pressure polish, with an essential oil.

Chances are, neither the consumer nor today's average dispenser is willing to invest the time.
uncut

**EdgeOptical** · 08-15-2012, 02:46 PM

what essential oil is reccomended?

lately i have been

ultrasonic cleaning after an intial wipe down, mechanical polish (medium speed, light polishing compound) followed by another ultrasonic bath

then storing the frame over night in a ziploc bag with pledge (oil and aerosol)

then the next day, doing a good hand polish, followed by another blast of pledge (aerosol only) and a final buff

i have seen great results, but have a feeling they could get much better on some frames.

**uncut** · 08-16-2012, 09:38 PM

Originally Posted by EdgeOptical

what essential oil is reccomended?

lately i have been

ultrasonic cleaning after an intial wipe down, mechanical polish (medium speed, light polishing compound) followed by another ultrasonic bath

then storing the frame over night in a ziploc bag with pledge (oil and aerosol)

then the next day, doing a good hand polish, followed by another blast of pledge (aerosol only) and a final buff

i have seen great results, but have a feeling they could get much better on some frames.

It sounds like you have a handle on the best process, Edge!

I would say, as far as oils go..............pick whichever you wish............and as long as it penetrates deeply, lubricates, not corrodes metal parts, is gentle on paint, and doesn't smell like it is fermenting at a later date...............and, last but not least...............................whatever is handy, and "sheets" well at application, too.

**Chris Ryser** · 08-17-2012, 12:27 AM

Originally Posted by chip anderson

Perhaps keeping them out of direct sunlight and excessive heat is big factor. Very few plastics like direct sunlight for long periods of time.

Frames that have been stored (as in an un-cooled/un-heated storage shed) would be more likely to warp than those that have been with a more controlled temperature and/or humidity changes.

Chip

Long term exposure to UV (sunlight) will damage just about anything if not filtered.

Storage as said in quote will not produce any damage. I have over 3000 high class frames in stock for over 20 years in an area as per above description and they are still as new.

**mdeimler** · 08-17-2012, 09:15 AM

WD-40 works well also. It's basically fish oil.

**Fezz** · 08-17-2012, 09:22 AM

Originally Posted by mdeimler

WD-40 works well also. It's basically fish oil.

That is false, a myth!

http://www.wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

http://www.reactivereports.com/chemi...-fish-oil.html

**Chris Ryser** · 08-17-2012, 09:59 AM

Originally Posted by mdeimler

WD-40 works well also. It's basically fish oil

.

WD40

Composition/Information on Ingredients Ingredient	CAS #	Weight Percent
Aliphatic Hydrocarbon	64742-47-8	45-50
Petroleum Base Oil

**mdeimler** · 08-17-2012, 12:55 PM

Fish oil lubricates joints and WD40 lubricates hinges. What's the diff ? They both work well on dry frames.

**CCGREEN** · 08-17-2012, 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by Lynx

How about in 60 years? :)

Maybe I've gotten the terminology wrong but this picture looks like the plastic has shrunk near the hinges:

If your trying to restore the above frame to make it look like new. You would be better off appreciating it for what it is now and what it has been through. Just like for us humans there is no fountain of youth for frames. You can take care of them and they will last a long time. But if they have not been cared for there is very very little that can be done to turn back the ravages of time.

**Chris Ryser** · 08-18-2012, 01:57 AM

Originally Posted by Lynx

How about in 60 years? :)

Maybe I've gotten the terminology wrong but this picture looks like the plastic has shrunk near the hinges:

Actually the hinge has been ripped out, the old rivet hole is visible to the right of the tri, and then empty space has been badly filled with fibres of fibre glass, that has not dissoved when done......................or the frame was painted and the paint comes off

No frame distortion............bad repair job