Lens Slipping

[Mlindy]

Any recomendations on lens slipping in edger with new arc coatings. Tried non slip disc's and still getting slipping.

[Chris Ryser]

Any recomendations on lens slipping in edger with new arc coatings. Tried non slip disc's and still getting slipping.

Very simple ................................purchase your AR coated lenses without the slick coat whatever brand name it has. Edge your lenses without slipping and just before inserting them into the frame apply some "Super Hydrophobic" to the lenses.

You can do up to 300 pairs per bottle which are also anti -fog and anti -stat, which nobody else offers. For the cost you save on two pairs of lenses you can purchase a full 1 liter bottle of it.

check it at: http://optochemicals.com/crystalclear.htm

[John@OWDC]

It is the combination of coating, pad, block and non-slip pad you are using.
A non-slip pad alone will not do it.
There are tons of leap pads out there made just for non-slip.
You want to use a soft block or non-slip block.
You want to use the largest block you can get away with.
You will need to experiment with which non-slip pad works best for your coating.
The company or lab that is supplying your lenses should help you out since it is in their best interest to have your lenses cut out and not be a remake...

[Chris Ryser]

You will need to experiment with which non-slip pad works best for your coating.
The company or lab that is supplying your lenses should help you out since it is in their best interest to have your lenses cut out and not be a remake...

No coating no need to experiment. No coating......no slip........then apply coating. No need for remakes either.

[David_Garza]

I've been doing fine with TAK and/or the tape HOYA send in with their A/R uncuts

http://www.optiboard.com/forums/show...et-their-match!

[bhess25]

the hell with waisting time applying crap that the manufacturers make better anyway because the coating is applied in a vacuum oven (this is experience, i have ran an AR unit and applied super hydrophobic coatings). There should be a delicate setting on your edger (wine glass) use it along with super hydro pads and a non slip film on the backside. DAC hydro edge (phenomenal blocking pad),and for the backside DVEM-6 (this one is awesome from DAC),or PSI SecurEdge Plus Blocking Pads (just dont use these on non-coated lenses, you'll play hell getting them off), PSI clear lens savor dots for the backside (also do not use on non coated lenses). the PSI pads work great i have used them a ton, I'm just starting to use the DAC pads and have found success with them but i think i might go back to PSI, its a comfort zone).

[scriptfiller]

I use 3M 1700M Leap Tabs and make sure I keep a fresh blade in my ole 6e. Don't know if you use a blade or wheel edger, but you got to keep them sharp.

The 3M LSE pads do a good job also.

[PRECISIONLAB]

There are great AR blocking pads on the market designed for the ultra slick ar coatings and already mentioned in this post. My lab processes all major manufactures AR (Crizal/Hoya Hi Vision/ Teflon) using a combo of pads and non slip products to reduce slippage. Special edging cycles are set up in our 7E's as well. You mentioned "Discs" which my be a anti scratch lens protector as opposed to a non slip product. DAC, Psi and many other suppliers will happily send you samples of the pads they sell. Order some in and see what works best for your AR Edger combo

[Barry Santini]

We solved all our sliiping problems on our old Kappa with 3M LSE pads. However, we suffered about 18 months with repeated and frequent slippage with our then new Santinelli LEX 1000, until Craig told us to use TAK orange oval rikki style pads. Result: Absolutely Noooo slippage.

Good stuff.

B

[bhess25]

also check your wheels, if they get old and dull lenses will slip.

[snowmonster]

You never even said which edger you have and whether or not there's a soft/slow setting of some sort.

[DragonLensmanWV]

Will labs even DO AR without the hydrophobic treatment? None that I know of.

[Optiguru]

Ayup soft/slow setting for the "newer" a-r coatings? Also I rikki pad front and back, what the few pennies the pads are we save in remakes, and delivery time to not have to get the next set. If you don't have a newer machine, the cost of the new machine can be recouped in time not spent on remakes.

[snowmonster]

That's accurate. We had an older edger without any soft/slow mode when these coatings first came out and it was terrible.

And if you are using a hydrophobic edging pad, make sure you read the directions. We use Secure Edge Plus. You have to pay attention to which side of the pad the lens goes on and you have to let it sit on the lens for 15 minutes prior to edging. I used them on a 1.67 high minus with 4 cyl and significant horizontal and vertical prism yesterday without any twisting. We also use the backside pad.

[mattc-ait]

Also, make sure you are not handling the lens with your bare hands when putting on the lens tape, the oil from your fingers can cause problems.

[Chris Ryser]

Will labs even DO AR without the hydrophobic treatment? None that I know of.

A hydrophobic treatment is an extra work cycle in the coating lab. After the AR is finished they apply the hydrophobic, which can be done in chamber by heating and evaporating a hydrophobic pill, a liquid hydrophobic concentrate, ..........or a dip into hydrophobic solution. If you choose not to have it they just remove the lens before starting last cycle, and can not charge you the extra $............ .. they charge.

I have been supplying all of the above solutions for years and have an idea of what is all about.

[pezfaerie]

We solved all our sliiping problems on our old Kappa with 3M LSE pads. However, we suffered about 18 months with repeated and frequent slippage with our then new Santinelli LEX 1000, until Craig told us to use TAK orange oval rikki style pads. Result: Absolutely Noooo slippage.

Good stuff.

B

+1 on the TAK pads, they rock!

[lovejoycody]

secure edge plus work great on superhydro. if you are using an older type of edger with a heavy head try cutting your lenses large and then sizing them down, also see if you can ease the weight of the edger head with your hands as the lens comes down on the stone.

I used to have to really babysit our old waco 440, but recently upgraded to a Kappa and it works much better. still having some really nice blocking pads make a big difference too. i use about 5 different types of pads depending on what i am edging.

[John@OWDC]

lovejoycody,

I think you just suggested a new posting topic!

Tell us about the crazy stuff you have had to do to keep an old edger running...

We had an old pattern Briot that you had to guide with your fingers against the head when cutting high-index or the bevel placement would be off. Too little and it was too far forward, too much and it was too far back...
We also had to keep a bent hanger and a screwdriver around so when the guide pin popped out of place you could take off the side cover, reach in and snap it back around the guide.
We called changing the water tank and chemicals, "Draining the Swamp".

[thep]

Try the Zeiss Power pads.

[David_Garza]

+1 on the TAK pads, they rock!

I'm a big fan of TAK pads as well BUT I just had a FT28 with HOYA SUPER HI VISION slip on me and ruined both lenses.....Labs guy I spoke with had me test out the axis to verify that it wasn't an edger problem (it wasn't)....some water must have slipped through the FT edge......so TAK, while great is not a complete 100% given.

[Murray O'Brien]

I use secure edge plus pads, as well as always making sure I use the large chucks if possible rather than the small ones. Use soft setting of course. I never have slippage with any material other than thicker minus trivex. Hoya recommend wiping the surface of their lenses with acetone before blocking. Even using secure edge plus pads I still use one of the anti slip foils on the back surface.

[jefe]

I crib the lenses -- removing about 99% of the material normally ground off during the roughing cycle. No problems with lenses slipping off axis.

[sharpstick777]

I crib the lenses -- removing about 99% of the material normally ground off during the roughing cycle. No problems with lenses slipping off axis.

1) crib by edging about 6 mm oversize on your first pass, and reblocking. You will have less torque on the lens the second pass.
2) You can also try Oval or larger blocks (mentioned above) if they are made for your edger, (some people have cut down their own blocks for smaller sizes)
3) using a slower edger speed, or reversing the wheel
4) and blocking both the front and the back of the lens, if your edger can take a block on the back
5) and different combinations of pads.
6) use the maximum recommended chuck pressure

The key is to make your lens stick better, or reduce torque from the edger, or do both. Its all trial and error on your edger with different AR's

[bhess25]

6) use the maximum recommended chuck pressure

I would be careful with this one...if your edger uses metal blocks you almost certainly WILL crack the AR.