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Thread: Minimalist Dispensing Area -- What Screws Should I Stock?

  1. #1
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    Minimalist Dispensing Area -- What Screws Should I Stock?

    Hi, I've been hired to manage a practice with the focus on increasing sales and profitability (my area of expertise), but part of the job entails deciding what tools to keep around (not my area of expertise, though I am ABO certified).
    I don't like having a few each of dozens of different types of screws -- in my experience, you never use 90% of them, and the ones you do use, you constantly run out of. I realize sometimes only that certain screw will do, but believe me we have enough oddball screws to handle those rare occasions.
    So, my goal is two or three screw types for nosepads, two or three for hinge, etc.
    What would you recommend, size and type wise? We order from Hilco, by the way.

    Thanks in advance for your help!

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    1.1 mm for nosepads, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.5 mm for everything else.
    DragonlensmanWV N.A.O.L.
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    Personally, what I prefer is a selection of different diameters and one length. I use a sharp side cutter to trim any excess length.

    I've also started keeping screw/nut combos for those older frames where the threads are all bolloxed up or where "someone" has drilled out a broken screw and messed up the threads. Again long and cut to fit.

    My most popular screw is eyewire and I typically use a 1.32 thread x 4.0 mm long. Others are 1.32 x 3.4 and 1.4 thread x 4.7 long.

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    Is it November yet? Jana Lewis's Avatar
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    Self aligning are my favs:

    1.2 mm diameter
    7.7 mm length
    2.4 mm head

    1.4 mm diameter
    4.0 mm length
    2.0 mm head

    1.3 mm diameter
    7.7 mm length
    2.4 mm head

    Works for almost everything!
    Jana Lewis
    ABOC , NCLE

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  5. #5
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    Thanks so much for the quick replies! I'll let you know what I end up ordering (if you're interested). Be warned -- you're so helpful here, I might come back with a similar question about tools! Hoping to make my staff's jobs easier.

  6. #6
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    If you are only going to have a few, I would certainly have all be self aligning. I agree with dragon for diameter. For the 1.3 and 1.5, have them be tap and snaps with the glue on them. for the 1.4, give yourself about three options: self aligning, tap and snap with glue with large head and small head.

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    Compulsive Truthteller OptiBoard Gold Supporter Uncle Fester's Avatar
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    Hilco Tap-n-Lok gunmetal 1 vial 1.2, 1.5. Two vials each 1.3 (for most eyewires) and 1.4 (for most temples).

    1 vial .8 (to hold open very thin hinged spring temples- file the tip to a sharp flat angle)
    1 vial 1.0 nosepad screws

    Strip all discarded frames for parts and don't forget you can always use your inventory as a last resort.

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    Barticus Prime - Optibot opticianbart's Avatar
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    I agree with everyone who suggested the 1.3, 1.4, 1.5. I tend to go with the long self tapping ones - they fit into (almost) everything. And for the ones where you can't put the screw all the way through - clip them to size and use a file to smooth the end. I do that all the freaking time when I'm doing repairs.
    Bart Smith, continuing to be awesome since 1982 so that you don't have to.

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    Agreed on the Tap n' Lok screws from Hilco. The best part about them is the fact that they will break off cleanly! No need to worry about clipping or filing...

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    Have you tried the Centrostyle versions?

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    I second the Hilco Tap'nLock screws. We stock:
    1.2 (go-to for temple screws)
    1.3 (go-to for eyewire screws, both head sizes, there is a small and a large head)
    1.4 (go-to when the 1.3 strips out, also ditto on head sizes)
    1.5
    1.6
    1.7 (for those occasional "I lost the screw in my sunglasses" moments)

    That's eight vials total for eyeglass screws, easily identifiable and sortable. I also have a mixed "petri-dish" of nosepad screws from frames over the years, or the occasional Hilco replacement order to refill. We order multiple vials and pour them all into one of each to keep stocked up, and if you drop any we have a second petri-dish labeled "misc screws" you can use if you have time or it's a gnarly old frame you don't want to "waste" a new screw on.

  12. #12
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    Have you seen the cost of fancy self-tapping vs regular screws? They cost 5x and are not needed for most frames. If profits are the name of the game; self-tapping will not work!

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter varmint's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig View Post
    Have you seen the cost of fancy self-tapping vs regular screws? They cost 5x and are not needed for most frames. If profits are the name of the game; self-tapping will not work!
    I believe self-tapping is the only way to go, saving valuable time that can be better used more productively waiting on patients.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig View Post
    Have you seen the cost of fancy self-tapping vs regular screws? They cost 5x and are not needed for most frames. If profits are the name of the game; self-tapping will not work!
    It's not my job to be concerned about profits, but if it was, I would just add on X amount per frame to cover the cost of the screws that safe me time and annoyance.

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    Besides, how long a day do you want to spend aligning temples? Screw that noise. Well, self-tap-screw that noise! :)

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geirskogul View Post
    Besides, how long a day do you want to spend aligning temples? Screw that noise. Well, self-tap-screw that noise! :)
    Amen brother!

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