Figure 8 Size?

[allanon]

After 6 years, I'm finally out of Figure 8. I had no idea it comes it about a dozen sizes. Anyone know which one to go with? 0.47mm 0.51mm 0.60mm

Is the insertion plier all that helpful?

[Striderswife]

The size I have is the 0.50/0.60mm. It seems to work fine.

As far as the insertion plier? It looks to me like it would potentially crimp the liner where you don't want it to. I remove the old liner (and remaining rimless cord), then kind of snake in the new liner. It can be tricky around corners, if the frame is really angular, but it always eventually works.

[DragonLensmanWV]

Yeah, I'll sometimes use the edge of a slot file to coax it along. Just got the insertion tool, now I'll have to go try it.

[edKENdance]

Yeah, I'll sometimes use the edge of a slot file to coax it along. Just got the insertion tool, now I'll have to go try it.

I've found the insertion tool to suck. If the figure 8 is the right size it will go in well enough and maybe just a little heat to get it around corners.

[allanon]

Awesome replies! This is one of the many things I never saw in school... and years later I almost never touch the stuff.

[DragonLensmanWV]

Awesome replies! This is one of the many things I never saw in school... and years later I almost never touch the stuff.

Good thing it's ALMOST! :bbg::cheers:

[jeffsoptical]

[QUOTE=edKENdance;350699]I've found the insertion tool to suck.QUOTE] imho don't waste ur money on the tool because it doesn't help.

[uncut]

IMO it is useful to keep all sizes on hand, if possible, that way you can ensure depth-in groove dimension( to reduce lens chippage possibilities).

I found the three best tools are: 1. straight pin- for clearing out the holes, and removing residual T-bar.
2. knife file- for, as DLWV said...for coaxing the t-bar along, and clearing residual. BTW, the handle works great too.
3. a busted pointed nose flat-jaw plier- works great for moving the T-bar any way you wish, without crimping it. The long unbusted part of the plier was ground back to meet the broken part, which happened to break off at the three mm. mark, all edges were beveled, except the flat, so that you could grip the T-bar anywhere without marring, or cutting it. It works great in corners and tight angles!!!!.

[BMH]

3. a busted pointed nose flat-jaw plier- works great for moving the T-bar any way you wish, without crimping it. The long unbusted part of the plier was ground back to meet the broken part, which happened to break off at the three mm. mark, all edges were beveled, except the flat, so that you could grip the T-bar anywhere without marring, or cutting it. It works great in corners and tight angles!!!!.

Any way you could post a close up picture of this tool modification?

[uncut]

I'm away from the office for several days, but I will try to post pics next week, BMH!

[uncut]

Plier photo as promised, I hope it views well. You will notice that there are smooth outside contours to the horizontal and vertical, so as to allow manouverability. This also eliminates frame mars. This is my first photo posted to the forum! Enjoy!

[Uncle Fester]

FWIW I find the newer the plastic liner the better/easier it works.

Had a supply that got to be 4+ years old and was the right size but just wouldn't insert. On a hunch I ordered a new coil and it worked fine.

I will also sometimes cut the starting end on a bias to help insertion.

[jefe]

I habitually cut my fingernails too short, but if I haven't cut them in a while, I find I can push the liner the last 5-8 mm with the nail pushing directly over the slot after snaking most of the liner into the slot.