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Thread: orange peel

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    orange peel

    I have just started to notice a rise in the "orange peel" effect on 1.67 lenses. I notice this more after A.R. Can anyone help?

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    Orange peel comes form finfing and polishing, overheat ect. It the geta magnified by the AR. Strip and redo.

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    Master OptiBoarder TLG's Avatar
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    1.67 are extremely heat sensitive. Can you rule out your own salt pan? I only mention it as I have noticed with the current popularity of zyl frames, I'm using my salt pan a lot more. Is the orange peel even across the lens or more localized?

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    1.67 is my least favorite lens material for just this reason.

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    I've toasted more than a few 1.67's when heating for frame adjustment. It just doesn't take the heat well.... hope its stayin outta da kitchen!
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    If a patient comes in with an unknown lens with a/r in a plastic frame, what precaution should you need to take heating the frame (at the frame front/temple corner) with the hot air frame warmer? The lens crazed, and turned out it was 1.67 with "I-coat" a/r.

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    Compulsive Truthteller OptiBoard Gold Supporter Uncle Fester's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LoriB View Post
    If a patient comes in with an unknown lens with a/r in a plastic frame, what precaution should you need to take heating the frame (at the frame front/temple corner) with the hot air frame warmer? The lens crazed, and turned out it was 1.67 with "I-coat" a/r.
    Any AR lens in a plastic frame should be removed first, without heat imo. I always warn patients of the potential of the frame to break. If it's not from me originally, old or outside of warranty I do it "only at your risk".

    The rare occasion when I don't warn them is always when they'll break!

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    Crizal I bet... notorious for crazing in the hot weather. Air only for Crizal 1.67... and warn your patients to not leave thier glasses in the car. I believe the problem is in the cushion coat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser View Post
    Orange peel comes form finfing and polishing, overheat ect. It the geta magnified by the AR. Strip and redo.
    It can also happen during the casting process. Or if the lens is not cured properly it can happen on the blank during the coating process, in which case stripping won't help.

  10. #10
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    I've noticed orange peel on 1.67 with or without ar..stock and surfaced lenses...(sv ft or progessive) so fining and polishing/ar is not an issue. I believe there are sveral types of 1.67 on the market MR-10 etc. with some performing better than others. Here are my thoughts..finished 1.67 are usually 1.0 to 1.2 ct which is great for cosmetics but bad for the integrity of the lens. The constant positive pressure from the frame on the lens along with shrinking and expanding of the lenses during climate changes affects the hard coat. In my lab we check for "pressure" or stress on the lens from the frame using a polariscope and polish all 1.67 to insure the smoothest bevel in the frame. Bottom line.."life expectancy" of 1.67 is usually 2 yr-3yrs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LoriB View Post
    If a patient comes in with an unknown lens with a/r in a plastic frame, what precaution should you need to take heating the frame (at the frame front/temple corner) with the hot air frame warmer? The lens crazed, and turned out it was 1.67 with "I-coat" a/r.
    I try very hard to never Use heat on Zyl frames. The lab I work in, we try to do everything we can to avoid using heat to fix any excessive face wrap from using high or flat base lenses.
    I do all the Edging for the lab I work for and I size one lens on every frame before sending them to the person to mount, if she can't mount without using heat it comes back to me to be inserted or hand edge. When I hand edge I keep dipping the lens in water to help keep the lens from heating up also.

    If you have to use heat to fix an issue I would use hot water from the sink

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