AR Cleaning

**sandeepgoodbole** · 09-01-2009, 06:50 AM

Micron fiber piece given with lenses may not be handy every time. What are the alternate options to suggest which will clean but not damage the AR ?

**KStraker** · 09-01-2009, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by sandeepgoodbole

Micron fiber piece given with lenses may not be handy every time. What are the alternate options to suggest which will clean but not damage the AR ?

I would clean them as I do other lenses. Use hand soap and water and dry them with something cotton. Avoid paper products in general. (IMO) Do not use the paper cleaning cloths that come already wet with cleaner. In my experience they will scratch the lens in a very short time. One of our patients insists on using them and his lenses show abrasion in a perfect back and forth motion.

**chip anderson** · 09-01-2009, 07:12 AM

Delicate as some of it has been this summer, I think only the purest rainwater falling naturally and dried by the Sun. Oh, I forgot they can't take being in the Sun.

Chip

**opticianbart** · 09-01-2009, 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by KStraker

Do not use the paper cleaning cloths that come already wet with cleaner. In my experience they will scratch the lens in a very short time. One of our patients insists on using them and his lenses show abrasion in a perfect back and forth motion.

I've often wondered if they simply dry out to much. They seem to take a little longer to destroy lenses if you run the lenses under water first.

(and also I have a small friend here who says this post would be better with a smily face - so here you go :))

**cocoisland58** · 09-01-2009, 07:32 AM

I gladly sell everyone the cloth and spray but I have also told them to simply run their new premium AR lenses under warm tap water and dry them with a decent brand of tissue (no lotion added). It's what I do with my own and not a scratch on them after three years. The cloths tend to accumulate dirt and oils so if you don't wash them (and not many do) it just ends up streaking the lens. Tissues are always clean and leave no residue if you buy the good ones (ok I prefer Puffs). The water rinse is really key to keeping them scratch free for years.

**Kyle** · 09-01-2009, 08:12 AM

It stands to reason that if you don't rinse you lens first, no matter the supposed quality of the cleaning product you're using, you WILL subject a lens to the abrasive nature of what dust is on its surface. Try taking a pre-moistened towelette to a brand new black Cadillac after driving it down a dirt road if you think they're so great.

Nothing substitutes for common sense.

Get rid of the dust and don't create more by using a tissue, the "quality" of which is incredibly subjective.

**Chris Ryser** · 09-01-2009, 09:25 AM

Micro cloth works nice for AR coatings without the slick coat to get the dirt and grease out of the spaces between the crystals of the coating.

When slick coats have been applied these spaces have been filled by the coating and you have a smooth clean like polished surface. If you have an anti static slick coat dust will not cling to it and lenses will stay clean much longer and scratch less when cleaned.

See that when lens cleaners are used, none contains alcohols which are the main ingredient of most lens cleaners. Only use surfactant based cleaners.

**chip anderson** · 09-01-2009, 09:39 AM

Chris: Any reason not to use non-alcohol cleaners such as Danker's Permabrite (active ingredient=EDTA)?
Danker says it's safe for AR but then most spray cleaners do.

Chip

**Chris Ryser** · 09-01-2009, 10:27 AM

Originally Posted by chip anderson

Any reason not to use non-alcohol cleaners such as Danker's Permabrite (active ingredient=EDTA)?
Danker says it's safe for AR but then most spray cleaners do.

Chip

None alcohol cleaners are fine. EDTA is as following and I do not understand what it has to do with lens cleaners.

Synonyms

Sodium EDTA,
Calcium EDTA
Description

Uses

Sodium or calcium EDTA binds to metals, such as nickel, copper, and iron, making them unavailable to react with other ingredients in a product, or with compunds in the human body.
Compounds that act in this way are called sequestering agents, or chelating agents (after the word for the claw of a crab -- chelae).
EDTA is used to treat lead and mercury poisoning, as it can lock up those metals so they can do no harm in the body.
EDTA also sequesters calcium and magnesium from hard water, preventing them from forming insoluble soap films (scum) with soaps and detergents.
Chelators are sometimes used to sequester metal ions that interfere with dyes and perfumes. Compounds with similar functions are sodium carbonate, pentasodium pentetate, sodium citrate, phosphoric acid, tetrasodium etidronate, and tetrasodium pyrophosphate.

**chip anderson** · 09-01-2009, 11:09 AM

Will check with Danker/Utica/Obrig but am pretty sure about compound in Permabrite/Obrite. Is the best spectacle and rigid contact lens cleaner I have found ever.

Chip

**Warspite** · 09-04-2009, 02:21 PM

I have for years been working for a Zeiss A/R application lab. I would proceed with the following when addressing proper cleaning technique.
1) rinse lens under lukewarm water...bottled water preferably. Minerals and other agents in tap water depending on location can eventually lead to A/R breakdown, especially if you get your water from a well.
2) apply a liquid soap (no hand softners added) or a/r cleaner
3) use soft cloth (cotton preferred) to wipe dry. (use this towel ONLY for this purpose...NO OTHER.
4) use manufacturers cloth (usually handed to client at time of dispensing) only to wipe away remaining finger prints that may exist on lens after cleaning.

Following these steps over the years had resulted in patient after patient satisfaction with overall A/R application