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Thread: How i edging polycarbonate lenses

  1. #1
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    How i edging polycarbonate lenses

    Hi,
    I want ask, how I work polycarbonate lenses on lesn edger. With water or without water. Please whrite me proces of edging.

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    Edging of Poly

    Hi,
    in order to answer your question you need to tell us a bit more, what type of edger are planning to use ?

    Georg Mayer
    Rodenstock - Munich

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    Nidek (Santineli) LE-7070, but water don't stop automaticaly, water run continuously

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    edging Polycarbonat with Nidek LE7070 ?

    This should be possible, however if I am not mistaken the water should actually stop. It's quite some time that I saw the last 7070.

    Anyhow, here is the link to the instruction manual (english):
    http://www.santinelli.com/support/Kn...39;sManual.pdf

    recommend to contact your local Nidek agent.

    Good luck
    Georg Mayer

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    Poly VAC also required

    Just remebered that an extension to get rid of the dry dust, called Poly Vac or similar name was also necessary..

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    Professional Rabble-Rouser hipoptical's Avatar
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    I had a 7070 once that was not set up for running poly. You need to cut it wet, but manually turn off the water on the bevel cycle. If you watch it closely, and turn the water back on for the last couple of revolutions on the bevel, it will polish the edge for you. There should be a manual valve on the right side of the machine. (Alternatively, you can increase the lens size by .10mm and run the process I described above, except allow it to cut the bevel completely dry. Then, recut the lens -.10mm with the water on. You'll get a fairly nice polish that way.)
    This also depends on the type of roughing wheel you have. For optimum performance, make sure you have a plastic/poly wheel.
    Aim at heaven and you will get earth thrown in. Aim at earth and you get neither. C.S. Lewis

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    Vision Equipment OptiBoard Corporate Sponsor Leo Hadley Jr's Avatar
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    Run poly dry.
    It sounds like a relay switch is stuck on.
    Dry to rough, dry to bevel, water on last few revolutions.
    Leo Hadley Jr
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    Professional Rabble-Rouser hipoptical's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OpticLabRat View Post
    Run poly dry.
    It sounds like a relay switch is stuck on.
    Dry to rough, dry to bevel, water on last few revolutions.
    (Correct me if I'm wrong, but...)
    That depends on his setup. If it is setup for poly, then you are correct. This sounds like his is like mine- no poly. I ordered a combo wheel and had to control the water manually to make it work.
    Aim at heaven and you will get earth thrown in. Aim at earth and you get neither. C.S. Lewis

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    Vision Equipment OptiBoard Corporate Sponsor Leo Hadley Jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hipoptical View Post
    (Correct me if I'm wrong, but...)
    That depends on his setup. If it is setup for poly, then you are correct. This sounds like his is like mine- no poly. I ordered a combo wheel and had to control the water manually to make it work.
    That is highly possible, I had to manually control my water on an old edger before. The 7070 is available in several configurations so we cannot really know without seeing the edger.
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    Thank you for the replies. I bought the edger second hand and there are no any valves to control the water authomatically. The edger has three wheels - plastic, glasses and bevel ones. The edger model is SX and the history of the machine shows such lenses have been cut. The water is running constantly and I always turn it off and on completely manually. I have two more questions - can I cut TRIVEX and what does it mean ACR lenses (Acrylic resin)? I will make some photoes on the edger and will send them.

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    In the materials, do you have a poly choice? Or is it only glass, acr and plastic?
    Leo Hadley Jr
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    Yes, I have: PLA (plastic), GLS (glas), ACR (Acrylic resin), and PC (polycarbonate)

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    Vision Equipment OptiBoard Corporate Sponsor Leo Hadley Jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kskpkb View Post
    Yes, I have: PLA (plastic), GLS (glas), ACR (Acrylic resin), and PC (polycarbonate)
    If your water is constantly running on all materials, you have a bad relay.
    This is assuming the pump is plugged into the machine.
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    Or a solenoid stuck open.

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    Professional Rabble-Rouser hipoptical's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kskpkb View Post
    The water is running constantly and I always turn it off and on completely manually.
    Do you have the pump plugged into the edger or into the wall?
    Aim at heaven and you will get earth thrown in. Aim at earth and you get neither. C.S. Lewis

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    I don't have any pump, the edger is plugged directly to the water, I turn on and off the water manualy with valve.

    Here is a photo of the wheels:


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCN9050.jpg  
    Last edited by kskpkb; 07-31-2009 at 01:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kskpkb View Post
    I don't have any pump, the edger is plugged directly to the water, I turn on and off the water manualy with valve.

    Here is a photo of the wheels:


    Do you have solenoids plugged into the machine to stop the water?
    If you do, test the outlet on the machine to see if its working. If it is, bad solenoids. If its not, bad relay. If you dont have solenoids....Thats the problem.
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    I do not have solenoid and I even do not know what it is. Could you pls send me a photo of solenoid, thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kskpkb View Post
    I do not have solenoid and I even do not know what it is. Could you pls send me a photo of solenoid, thank you.
    These are solenoid valves:

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...noid+Valves%2C

    If you run direct water, the solenoid valve replaces the pump. You plug it into the pump electrical outlet on the machine and then the machine triggers the valve to turn on and off as necessary.
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    Quote Originally Posted by OpticLabRat View Post
    These are solenoid valves:

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...noid+Valves%2C

    If you run direct water, the solenoid valve replaces the pump. You plug it into the pump electrical outlet on the machine and then the machine triggers the valve to turn on and off as necessary.
    I understand,
    but I do not have solenoid and the pump. My edger plugged directly to the water, I turn on and off the water manualy with valve :(

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    Professional Rabble-Rouser hipoptical's Avatar
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    You'll have to get the solenoids or turn it on and off manually as I described earlier.
    Aim at heaven and you will get earth thrown in. Aim at earth and you get neither. C.S. Lewis

    An explanation of cause is not a justification by reason. C.S. Lewis

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    Vision Equipment OptiBoard Corporate Sponsor Leo Hadley Jr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hipoptical View Post
    You'll have to get the solenoids or turn it on and off manually as I described earlier.
    YEP....You need solenids or pumps.
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    I may be off base here but it sounds like you need a little explination of the way it works.

    On the back of your machine there is a female side of a power cord computer type three prong. Most likely labeled pump. This is what the machine uses to start and stop the water depending on the material cycle you choose.

    If you are using a bucket you would have a submersible pump that would have its power cord attached to the plug and turn the pump on when it needs water and off when it does not.

    When you use fresh water supply you need to put a solenoid in its place so it does the same thing. If this is bypassed then the water will just run always.

    I can not remember for sure as It has been a number of years since I had a 7070. I do believe it is only a single pump machine so you only need one solenoid. If there is two plugs on the back it needs two attached to the appropriate hoses for input. As in the 9000 or most new machines. They even go as far as having another solenoid within the machine to redirect water to individual tubes for different functions.

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    Unfortunately, it is true, the water is always running. I will try to find a solenoid here in Bulgaria but it will be difficult since I bought the edger from England without any pumps and solenoids. Most likely I will try to run the machine as per the way described by hipoptical. Thank you to all of you and if you have any further advices pls share them with me.

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    Actually the only poly I have edged for spectacles have been cutting down stuff the lab sent too large, so I don't really have experience in this but it has been my belief that Poly was cut dry with a router. I know that when I cut it for other projects dry is the way to go. Much less swarf.''

    Dry burrs and dry grindstones work fine on it too.

    CR-39 cuts fine dry also if you don't mind the dust.

    Now glass, there you need water. Steel needs oil. Almost all metal needs oil. Drilling needs oil or bee's wax. Why should "optical" products be different?


    Chip

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