Wheel Replacement

[sandeepgoodbole]

Today,I replaced diamond wheel of my semi automat.
In order to fit the wheel, I heated the wheel @ 60 Centigrade.
Still it was a little tight over the hub. So,I put the hub in Ice
for 5 minutes and heated the wheel to @ 75 digrees that drove
the wheel smoothly over the hub. What can be other methods of doing this ?

Now, the new wheel is cutting a bit more fast and chipping the lenses on both surfaces at the edge. How this cann be corrected?
This seems to give me a lot of sleepless nights .:drop:

[JERRY HUANG]

Merry Christmas.

Increase the cutting size on the rough wheel at least 2.2 mm larger from your semi-auto edger will take care the problem.

Jerry in OSAKA, Japan.

[sandeepgoodbole]

Originally posted by JERRY HUANG
Merry Christmas.

Increase the cutting size on the rough wheel at least 2.2 mm larger from your semi-auto edger will take care the problem.

Jerry in OSAKA, Japan.

Happy X mas to you too Jerry !

I am pulling on with exactly that. But that's at the cost of my V.
Can we some how "blunt" the wheel time to time ?

Sandeep

[JERRY HUANG]

Hi Sandeep,

I don't recall that I need to blunt the rough wheel when lens chips. I was told to adjust the cutting size instead and clean up the rough wheel with a wet dressing stick.-----I learned this one from LC :hammer: and I hope it works for you.

Good Luck

Jerry

[sandeepgoodbole]

Originally posted by JERRY HUANG
Hi Sandeep,

I don't recall that I need to blunt the rough wheel when lens chips. I was told to adjust the cutting size instead and clean up the rough wheel with a wet dressing stick.-----I learned this one from LC :hammer: and I hope it works for you.

Good Luck

Jerry

I had been told all types of dos and don'ts by so many experts!
I presume that Dressing makes a blunt wheel sharp as it drives away the "Binding Material" and exposes the"Diamond" crystals to the surface. But when we have unwanted Diamonds, what should be done ? We have two types of dressing sticks rough and fine. I had all sorts of perms & combs of applying on running @ Full speed, off the motor.. and then apply the sticks.. wet the sticks.. dry sticks.. running water .. I am still donot know the right thing! But, that's for Increasing the cutting speeds. Do you have some sticks which "Undresses"(!!) the wheel ?

[Alan W]

I just emerged on the bright side of chipping by watching the coolant flow. If its adjustable, play with it. If it is NOT adjustable, I suggest you might attach a valve on the coolant line and control it. Poly needs less coolant, but needs some.
Check the float of the head and be sure it sets down properly. You didnt say when the chipping occurs, but if it is when the head sets down, you might want to look at it closer. I still feel the coolant supply is the culprit! Dry wheel will chip more likely than a wheel on Poly.
The dressing stick is not likely to cause a problem. You can do a cool touchup or a hot one.
A cool one is when the coolant is flowing and the wheel is at top speed. Then you touch up the wheel.
A hot one is when you get to top speed and then cut the power while you hit the wheel and stop it with the stick. It softens the resins and causes the diamonds to be more coarse. I am not completely sure about this, but the hot truing method doesn't seem to cause as much chipping as the cold method. The trouble is you dont want to use the hot method too many times.
If that and all else fails, give up and be a brain surgeon!

[Alan W]

I'm sorry . . . correction:

Dry wheel will chip more likely than a wheel on Poly.

I've noticed that a wet wheel chips poly more. It also creates tons of gook. You can hear the crackling noise.
I never looked to see if a crackle was a chip.
But, then, I could never prove "Snap, Crackle, Pop, was really going on in a bowl of cereal!

[sandeepgoodbole]

Originally posted by Alan W
I'm sorry . . . correction:



I've noticed that a wet wheel chips poly more. It also creates tons of gook. You can hear the crackling noise.
I never looked to see if a crackle was a chip.
But, then, I could never prove "Snap, Crackle, Pop, was really going on in a bowl of cereal!

Dear Alan and Jerry,
Thanks for supplying me some direction.
We deal with Ceramic Glass 1.523 for 95% cases.The problem is because of The Brand New Wheel I installed.We use plain water as coolent I am immdiatly increasing the flow according to Alan.We have a bucket having a vertical Pump connected to Solenoid Valve which controls the waterflow. There is a screw **** which controls the supply by pressing the flexible pipe.
The drain first goes in a sedementing sump and it's overflow goes back to the main bucket.
What are the recommeded addtivies as coolents?
Adjusting the dead wt on the lens holder is another thing to be looked after.
Thanks again.!!