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Thread: Optronics 7E Vacuum

  1. #1
    Ophthalmic Optician OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    Optronics 7E Vacuum

    The vacuum on my edger just puked (died), so I thought I'd run out and pick up a shop vac to replace it. Problem is, the vacuum that came with he edger has a special three-prong plug that plugs into the back of the edger, and I'm not sure where to get one on short notice.

    When I looked on Granger's web site, they only list Dayton brands, and I can't tell what type of plug they have. The orignal vac is:

    Shop Vac brand Model 950C 120HZ the manual for the edger says the vac is 2.5 hp peak, but most wet-vacs are around 5.0 peak.

    There's also a ground wire attatched to the vac.

    Can you tell yet that I'm clueless about this?:o

    Hopefully, I can get drive down to Granger first thing in the AM and pick up another one, so long as I know what to get.

    Thanks!:cheers:


    I'
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  2. #2
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    That special plug arrangement is so that the edger can turn the vacuum on and off automatically. You could in theory cut off the plug from the old vac and splice it onto the powercord of the new one...but unless you solder it and have experience selecting the proper wiring scheme, I wouldn't suggest it. Optronics can sell you a new motor, but it too is a little tough to install unless you are mechanically inclined.

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    Ophthalmic Optician OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod View Post
    That special plug arrangement is so that the edger can turn the vacuum on and off automatically. You could in theory cut off the plug from the old vac and splice it onto the powercord of the new one...but unless you solder it and have experience selecting the proper wiring scheme, I wouldn't suggest it. Optronics can sell you a new motor, but it too is a little tough to install unless you are mechanically inclined.
    Thanks.

    I had considered cutting and splicing it, and have done so before on other equipment (but none as expensive as this:bbg:). I was concerned about the difference in the power draw.

    Do you think there is a comparable vac out there? Or could the present plug be available as an in-line adapter?
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    Doh! braheem24's Avatar
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    The grounding of the vacuum is to de-ionize the lens waste and allow it to drop to the bottom of the vacuum instead of staticly clinging elsewhere.

    I have had better luck with shop vacs then any other brands.

    Quiet and a shop vac would be my choice.

  5. #5
    Master OptiBoarder rbaker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by braheem24 View Post
    The grounding of the vacuum is to de-ionize the lens waste and allow it to drop to the bottom of the vacuum instead of staticly clinging elsewhere.

    I have had better luck with shop vacs then any other brands.

    Quiet and a shop vac would be my choice.
    In addition your local building codes and OSHA will require a grounded plug and receptacle and may even require a "GFCI" ground fault circuit interrupter.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    I got tired of buying replacement shop vacs and got a regular two-bag dust collector, then just ran it through one of the shop vacs's cannister (no motor) and dustbag. I'll post a few pictures later.
    Of course, you have to use Finger, Mark One to turn the vac on and off.

    OK, pictures added.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3-25 003.jpg   3-25 004.jpg  
    Last edited by DragonLensmanWV; 05-22-2009 at 08:13 AM.
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    I think you will also find the Shop Vac much louder. The NO vacs are a quiet model. Quit being such a tight wad and but the correct machine. There is a time for thriftiness and not.

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    Bad address email on file Smiley's Avatar
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    Wave

    [QUOTE=Johns;297295]The vacuum on my edger just puked (died), so I thought I'd run out and pick up a shop vac to replace it. Problem is, the vacuum that came with he edger has a special three-prong plug that plugs into the back of the edger, and I'm not sure where to get one on short notice.

    When I looked on Granger's web site, they only list Dayton brands, and I can't tell what type of plug they have. The orignal vac is:

    Shop Vac brand Model 950C 120HZ the manual for the edger says the vac is 2.5 hp peak, but most wet-vacs are around 5.0 peak.

    There's also a ground wire attatched to the vac.

    Can you tell yet that I'm clueless about this?:o

    Hopefully, I can get drive down to Granger first thing in the AM and pick up another one, so long as I know what to get.

    Thanks!:cheers:

    Johns,
    You can get a "cheater cord" from Optronics that will convert a regular vac plug (3 prong ground) into a square 3 prong on the edger side; this keeps you from having to slice and dice the power cord. LOL The ground wire that normally hooks to the bottom of the vac is highly recommended if the vac canister is plastic; the all plastic vacs put out a tremendous amount of static electricity.

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    Doh! braheem24's Avatar
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    Forget the woodshop vacuum rig, What is this? :bbg:


  10. #10
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by braheem24 View Post
    Forget the woodshop vacuum rig, What is this? :bbg:


    That was for the former boss, not me!

    We have all sorts of signs stuck up around here.
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    What I have done is just plug the vaccum into a regular socket, and turn it on and off maunually before edgeing. Its a cheezie way of doing it but works fine. The shop vacs are always messy and you get a ton of static from them, but work fine.

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    If I might offer a suggestion. Don't throw out the original unit (or cut off the cord if you can avoid it) use a "back up" shop vac, manually turning it on and off, and in the mean time, take your NOP unit to a local electric motor shop and have them rebuild the motor. A fresh set of brushes and perhaps a bearing or two and it will be good as new, for a lot less than the price of a new one. Most labs have a general clean up vac hanging around that can be borrowed for a few days, if not, it probably wouldn't hurt to pick one up. Now you have a wet/dry unit for when somebody accidently dumps over the mop bucket and a standby for when your NOP craps again (and it will). I ran in this manner for years and had the vac motor rebuilt three or four times before it finally had to be replaced.
    Good luck.

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    Ophthalmic Optician OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    Thanks for all the suggestions!

    I ended up buying a similar vac (9amps/2hp peak), diced, spliced, and we're back in business.

    I'll have the broken one rebuilt so we're not stuck again.

    Thanks again all!:cheers:
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    7-e vac

    You can get a new one from optronocs for about $400.00 .I know we replaced a motor I think we got it from Granger the problem was it did not have much suction and it only lasted 6 months. Keep the bag changed around the motor and it will last a long time.

  15. #15
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    That's one reason why I got the shop dust collector. It was $250 and it's lasted 6 years so far. I did have to use the shopvac cannister because the cloth collection bags were too porous for the generator dust.
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  16. #16
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    Here's what I do....

    I go out and get the 6 gallon variety shop vac at the local Home Depot or Lowes. I plug it into a 6 outlet strip with a switch, I turn the vacuum on and use the switch on the strip to operate the vacuum, convienently loacted at the lower left side of the edger. Those Optronics vacs. are usually good for about 3-5 years on a edger, so to replace it with the Optronics unit is not that feasable, the vacuums I get run right around $40 and last 2 -2.5 years.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johns View Post
    Thanks.

    I had considered cutting and splicing it, and have done so before on other equipment (but none as expensive as this:bbg:). I was concerned about the difference in the power draw.

    Do you think there is a comparable vac out there? Or could the present plug be available as an in-line adapter?
    I think the Optronics vac is going to be the quietest...and we have no mess or dust in the room.

    I wouldn't worry much about differences in current draw with a different vac. They are likely to be quite similar if you buy a similar capacity, but if you do any splicing, it should be done by crimping or soldering.

    You would only need GFI if you work near water.

  18. #18
    OptiBoard Professional OptiBoard Silver Supporter RT's Avatar
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    Hmmm...we here on Optiboard believe that patients measuring their own PD to place an internet order is a bad, bad thing. But Johns doing his own electrical work is a good idea?
    RT

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    Ophthalmic Optician OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT View Post
    Hmmm...we here on Optiboard believe that patients measuring their own PD to place an internet order is a bad, bad thing. But Johns doing his own electrical work is a good idea?
    Dude, I can splice a temple...I can splice a wire!

    Besides, that's what insurance is for!:cheers::cheers::cheers:
    Ophthalmic Optician, Society to Advance Opticianry

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    Regarding the shop vac. I had an old shop vac for optronics die on me about 2 years ago. I couldn't find a suitable replacement from the local hardware stores around me so I contacted Shop Vac directly. They sent me a new motor and detailed instructions with next day delivery for about $60-$70. Saved me a lot of time and money.

    If you want to fix the old one for a back up you may want to check their website and givem a call.

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    Last edited by ataylor; 11-09-2019 at 04:36 PM.

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