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Thread: Buffalo Horn

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    Buffalo Horn

    Can anybody please advise me on the best method to adjust a Lindberg Buffalo Horn frame?

    Lindberg technical are not very useful to say the least

    Have tried horn cream with steam, small adjustment holding under cold water until hard. However within a day or two they return back to normal shape!

    please help!

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    adjusting horn frames.............

    Quote Originally Posted by Henchos View Post
    Have tried horn cream with steam, small adjustment holding under cold water until hard. However within a day or two they return back to normal shape!
    You did the right thing. Buffalo horn and in the old times Turtle Shell frames are very much related. Frames have just about to fit perfect and you should order temples the right length and the curve at the right spot, so that they need minimal manipulation.

    There is not much more help in this case than above.

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    I think Jerry Huang told me something about rubbing them with mineral oil and very low heat, mostly heat generated by hands when rubbin he oil in.

    Chip

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    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    If you don't have mineral oil you can use butter! Low heat but more than you will generate in the friction of rubbing them. I have successfully used an air heater on tortoise frames (certified pre '76 stock) and it should work equally well with horn. Revue eyewear out of CT used to supply tortoise, I don't know where you could get it today.
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    Shame on you, Butter deteriorates, grows bacteria, etc. Mineral oil doesn't deteriorate, doesn't grow anything and doesn't even discolor with age.
    We used to fill our shakey gauges on motorcycles with it, they stoped shaking, looked cristal clear and never needed any service.

    Chip

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    Redhot Jumper Turtle Shell frames.....................

    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson View Post
    I think Jerry Huang told me something about rubbing them with mineral oil and very low heat, mostly heat generated by hands when rubbin he oil in.
    Actually the real professionals are not using oil, butter, fat grease and any other edible stuff, as it does nothing to the material.


    They are still using the bunsen burner to form the shell.



    Bunsen burner without the blue flame that gives intense heat


    A blonde colored frame is the most expensive and delicate.


    http://www.art-ecaille.com/turtle-sh...anufacture.htm


    All about turtle shell:-------------> http://www.maisonbonnet.com/angver/menu.htm
    Last edited by Chris Ryser; 03-22-2009 at 03:42 AM.

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    Underemployed Genius Jacqui's Avatar
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    hmmm....

    http://www.handicraft-vn.com/shop/na...c-157_125.html

    Menu on the left side has it listed as Natural Real Horn Eyeware, click there, there's more. I didn't dig too deeply , but there may be instructions somewhere. Also have hair brushes, combs, etc for women made from horn. Also pistol grips and knife handles. All from non-endangered water buffalo.

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    Jerry told me to use it during adjustments to prevent cracking of the horn.

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    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser View Post
    Actually the real professionals are not using oil, butter, fat grease and any other edible stuff, as it does nothing to the material.


    They are still using the bunsen burner to form the shell.



    Bunsen burner without the blue flame that gives intense heat


    A blonde colored frame is the most expensive and delicate.


    http://www.art-ecaille.com/turtle-sh...anufacture.htm


    All about turtle shell:-------------> http://www.maisonbonnet.com/angver/menu.htm


    Beg to differ with that statement, after having revived a 75 year old, faded and cloudy tortise shell frame with a little butter!(never tried mineral oil but suspect the results would have been the same.)The frame came out looking brand new. The frame's owner reported no bacterial growth, or other ill effects from this treatment. Was my learned friend from Quebec and Florida intimating I was not a "real" professional?
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    Redhot Jumper You will have to forgive me......................

    Quote Originally Posted by hcjilson View Post
    Was my learned friend from Quebec and Florida intimating I was not a "real" professional?
    Harry.................from your learned friend right now suffering in warm and sunny Florida:

    I believe this thread started with:

    Can anybody please advise me on the best method to adjust a Lindberg Buffalo Horn frame?
    Having made a few turtle shell frames from scratch, welding the pieces together to make the plate and then the frame in my days of training, a long time ago, and then sold hundreds of these frames in the 1980s, also a long time ago, I never came into contact with fat, grease or butter to adjust a frame. So I made an opposing statement.

    It makes sense to re-nourish an old frame that is drying out. However this can be done with newer and more modern products. One of them is teak oil, which actually not teak oil these days as we could not afford to buy it if anybody still produces it. These days teak oil is a silicone oil that does the same trick.

    You will have to forgive me for not knowing or maybe forgetting, because of age related functionalities.

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    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    After re-reading my post I can see how you got that impression. I didn't mean to imply that butter be used for adjusting the frame just reconditioning it. I am familiar with teak oil, I use it on a glider I have on the front patio as well as the deck of a sailboat I used to own.Wonderful stuff.Linseed oil would have worked just as well but I used what I had. I have that age related problem too but it got better when I found out rbaker was older than I was! :):)
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    Master OptiBoarder optigrrl's Avatar
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    I was taught the mineral oil method and heat - so I used a air-heater. My mentor said the mineral oil (oils) help disperse the heat more evenly onto the material. I could bend a scull type temple into a 45 degree angle and it would hold the adjustment.

    I was very lucky in that we had plenty of horn scraps to practice on.

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