Super hydro. lenses twisting

[bhess25]

Im not sure if anyone has found a good solution for this, but I use free blocks (wax..kinda like hot glue), as a blocking method. I use these pretty sticky clear pads (both front and back) that resemble clear tape and they stick to the lens like crazy but im still getting twisting. Were using 2 titans, 3 kappas, and one optronics 7e. Also i have used the delicate cycle on all edgers and still i see twisting. Does anyone know of a good solution that doesnt require leap pads to stop the twisting?

Thanks for the help in advance!
-Billy

[Chris Ryser]

Im not sure if anyone has found a good solution for this,
-Billy

1) Very simple: Get the lenses without slick coat, pay a lot less

2) Cut the lenses without slippage

3) Apply the slick coat yourself at a fraction of the original cost

------------------------

Result

1a) Saving on cost of lenses

2a) Saving by not having to re-do lenses

3a) Saving and preserving you nervous system.

.........................:cheers:..........................

[evville]

try not to use the wet edgers at all .You can go into the settings on the 7-E go to the material screen and adjust your motor feed and chuck pressure as needed it for the blocks you are using this will slow down your edger a lot also make sure you don,t have a lot of cuts on your blade this should work I do about 40 coating jobs a week .

[Thumbs]

Im not sure if anyone has found a good solution for this, but I use free blocks (wax..kinda like hot glue), as a blocking method. I use these pretty sticky clear pads (both front and back) that resemble clear tape and they stick to the lens like crazy but im still getting twisting. Were using 2 titans, 3 kappas, and one optronics 7e. Also i have used the delicate cycle on all edgers and still i see twisting. Does anyone know of a good solution that doesnt require leap pads to stop the twisting?

Thanks for the help in advance!
-Billy

It sound like your using a Step-two blocker from GerberCoburn. I'M not sure why your using saver tape on the lenses before blocking because I believe the step-two is designed to place the blocks directly on the lens surface. I would give Russ Gaigan at GerberCoburn (800-843-1479) at call, I am sure he would be glad to help you with this problem.

[snowmonster]

I think he's using Rikki pads.

How old are your blades and roughing wheels? Is this a problem with all materials including CR39?

I don't know anything about the Step Two, we can use pretty much any brand of leap pad in conjunction with the lens manufacturer-supplied Rikki pad with our Santinelli in "soft" mode and we never have any twisting.

[bhess25]

1) Very simple: Get the lenses without slick coat, pay a lot less

2) Cut the lenses without slippage

3) Apply the slick coat yourself at a fraction of the original cost

------------------------

Result

1a) Saving on cost of lenses

2a) Saving by not having to re-do lenses

3a) Saving and preserving you nervous system.

.........................:cheers:..........................

man im soo glad your around what would i do without you?...SERIOUSLY DUDE....WHAT?

[bhess25]

It sound like your using a Step-two blocker from GerberCoburn. I'M not sure why your using saver tape on the lenses before blocking because I believe the step-two is designed to place the blocks directly on the lens surface. I would give Russ Gaigan at GerberCoburn (800-843-1479) at call, I am sure he would be glad to help you with this problem.

thats what im using...and the wax if not protected is hell to remove from the lens..sometimes it doesnt come off at all!!

[bhess25]

I think he's using Rikki pads.

How old are your blades and roughing wheels? Is this a problem with all materials including CR39?

I don't know anything about the Step Two, we can use pretty much any brand of leap pad in conjunction with the lens manufacturer-supplied Rikki pad with our Santinelli in "soft" mode and we never have any twisting.

blades i change every week..and im only doing 120 jobs a day through the optronics...wheels are about 2 months old!!

[bhess25]

try not to use the wet edgers at all .You can go into the settings on the 7-E go to the material screen and adjust your motor feed and chuck pressure as needed it for the blocks you are using this will slow down your edger a lot also make sure you don,t have a lot of cuts on your blade this should work I do about 40 coating jobs a week .

40 a week would be nice...im doing about 200 coating jobs a day!..i actualy tried playing with all that stuff and truth be told i realy dont have too many twisting problemson the optronics!!

[evville]

40 a week would be nice...im doing about 200 coating jobs a day!..i actualy tried playing with all that stuff and truth be told i realy dont have too many twisting problemson the optronics!!

Wow 200 a day ,the most I have done is 20 in a a day with about two or three twist .The Optronics is the way to go I found using the wet edgers (Geber Kappa ) caused more twist do to the water .What is the benfit of this free blocking system ? We use the verio style (weco star block) with a Dac blue edge pad also i use old metal semi tech blocks for high minus special work I found they work better .

[fjpod]

The key word here is SHARP. Your blade or wheel has to be SHARP. I've had a lot of experience with this and Optronics dry edging. An old blade can cut CR39 of any thickness and coating for years on end, but a well used blade will not allow you to cut a thick poly with a slippery AR.

My philosopy:

edging CR is like whittling balsa wood with a penknife. Sounds like fun.

edging poly is like trying to carve a bowling ball with the same knife.

edging Hi-index is like using that same knife to chip away at concrete.

[Craig]

Im not sure if anyone has found a good solution for this, but I use free blocks (wax..kinda like hot glue), as a blocking method. I use these pretty sticky clear pads (both front and back) that resemble clear tape and they stick to the lens like crazy but im still getting twisting. Were using 2 titans, 3 kappas, and one optronics 7e. Also i have used the delicate cycle on all edgers and still i see twisting. Does anyone know of a good solution that doesnt require leap pads to stop the twisting?

Thanks for the help in advance!
-Billy

I have a Santinelli ME-1000 and the best thing we ever did was get a trivex wheel from Super Abrasive; it was designed with PPG for trivex and works better on all materials.

I am in the process of trying to get every major edger vendor to use these as standard wheels; it makes that much of a difference.

Send me a PM and I can get you more info on your machines, but it makes all the difference. We do 100% trivex, poly polarized or 1.67 and the wheel gets changed every 1,500 cuts to maintain the standards we have come to expect. Most people can go over 2,000 cuts or higher, it depends on your mix of work. CR-39 is very easy to cut and all wheels will have no issues until you get to the harder materials with the slippery coating.

It is to a point where on the lenses that come with the edging coat that is removed- we use the regular blocking pads vs the hydro ones because it is hard to get all the glue off the lens. We don't even use the soft mode as we have no slippage as long as the wheel is sharp.

Let me know if you would like more information on the wheel; everyone who has purchased has not gone back to a regular wheel.

Craig

[FCChemist]

1) Very simple: Get the lenses without slick coat, pay a lot less

2) Cut the lenses without slippage

3) Apply the slick coat yourself at a fraction of the original cost

------------------------

Result

1a) Saving on cost of lenses

2a) Saving by not having to re-do lenses

3a) Saving and preserving you nervous system.

.........................:cheers:..........................

4a) Sacrifice both perfornance and durability

[Chris Ryser]

4a) Sacrifice both perfornance and durability

Please explain above statement........................

Polysiloxanes are good for non-medical applications as well. For instance, the polymer is hydrophobic and is a good water repellant, as well as being slippery so other substances will not stick to it either. Also, since it is permeable to gases while being impermeable to particles, it is a good protective coating. The bonding is strong and so the polymer can be used as a good adhesive as well. These three applications are also enhanced because of the flexibility of the polymer. Since it has the ability to bend and twist, there wont be as much cracking and chipping going on in the application.

[FCChemist]

Please explain above statement........................

Polysiloxanes are good for non-medical applications as well. For instance, the polymer is hydrophobic and is a good water repellant, as well as being slippery so other substances will not stick to it either. Also, since it is permeable to gases while being impermeable to particles, it is a good protective coating. The bonding is strong and so the polymer can be used as a good adhesive as well. These three applications are also enhanced because of the flexibility of the polymer. Since it has the ability to bend and twist, there wont be as much cracking and chipping going on in the application.

My statement stems from years of experience in the development of fluorinated protective coatings including the types of fluorosilanes used for the protection of premium ophthalmic lenses with AR coatings. While modified polysiloxane based coatings can certainly offer some level protection and easy to clean properties, silicones can not offer the same level of performance against oil based contaminants such as finger prints in comparison to fluorochemicals. Attached is link to a recent article written in PCI magazine describing a particular class of fluorinated silanes.

http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/Articles/F...00000000432127

[bhess25]

so....no ideas?

[jcasowder]

Our edger has a setting to cut an AR lens, but the Avance slip, so I put the block in the blocking arm, peel off the tape, and grab my lighter and move it back and forth over the pad quickly, just enough to make it nice and warm. It makes the pad extremely sticky, and I have NO problem with slipping. Don't get it too hot, 'cause it may mess up the coating if you make the adhesive pad sizzle a little. Discovered this in a desperate attempt to make sure the lenses worked after another employee edged lenses for the patient and they slipped. We had to reorder the lenses, and I didn't want to have them get messed up again. Give it a shot and see how it does. Good luck!

[snowmonster]

Doesn't the Avance' have the MgF top coating that should keep it from twisting?

[For-Life]

Doesn't the Avance' have the MgF top coating that should keep it from twisting?

yes

[Ineed Chocolate]

My statement stems from years of experience in the development of fluorinated protective coatings including the types of fluorosilanes used for the protection of premium ophthalmic lenses with AR coatings. While modified polysiloxane based coatings can certainly offer some level protection and easy to clean properties, silicones can not offer the same level of performance against oil based contaminants such as finger prints in comparison to fluorochemicals. Attached is link to a recent article written in PCI magazine describing a particular class of fluorinated silanes.

http://www.pcimag.com/CDA/Articles/F...00000000432127

I love Optiboard. I can always learn so much from these postings, especially reading the ones where two power brains are discussing and comparing...like the above and the one from Chris Reyser. So, did we ever solve the original problem? I have had slippage, also.

[jcasowder]

Doesn't the Avance' have the MgF top coating that should keep it from twisting?

Yeah, but that doesn't mean it won't.:) Saying a lens won't slip because of an anti-slip coating is like telling a patient they can get a scratch-proof coating. Nothing's perfect, and even though the coating helps, it doesn't stop it. So I get to have fun practicing to be MacGyver:D! I think that's why I love lab work so much - problem solving on-the-fly!

[snowmonster]

I guess I'm surprised all these people are still having trouble with all of the MgF and Rikki pads out there. We have zero slippage and that's even with pretty thick poly with high cyl.

[MarcE]

I guess I'm surprised all these people are still having trouble with all of the MgF and Rikki pads out there. We have zero slippage and that's even with pretty thick poly with high cyl.

Me too, but I am. I wish I could find something other than the edger that could be the culprit.

[PhillyEyes]

today i had a lens rep tell me that some ecp's are using hairspray to stop slipping...a quick spray on the lens prior to blocking and it'll hold the lens securely due to its sticky nature...

has anyone heard of this?

ill give it a try myself this week sometime and get back..

[snowmonster]

heard of it, but the Rikki pads work so well with our edger in "soft" mode that we don't screw with anything else. We have zero slippage issues with our setup.