Smart Drill

**Ineed Chocolate** · 09-18-2008, 10:48 AM

My other office has a Smart Drill and I need to learn how to use it. I am doing our drill mounts the old fashioned way (by hand). Only problem is, the Smart Drill was purchased several years ago, before I started here, and I can't find a user manual for it. Does anyone know who makes the Smart Drill so I can do a search and find a users manual? Thanks for helping :)

**Chris Ryser** · 09-18-2008, 11:11 AM

Welcome to Tabco Optical
Tabco has been selling quality optical products for over 20 years. ... In addition, we are the manufacturers of the Smart Drill, the #1 selling Rimless ...
www.smartlab.cc/ - 11k - Cached - Similar pages

**Barry Santini** · 09-18-2008, 11:54 AM

Originally Posted by Ineed Chocolate

My other office has a Smart Drill and I need to learn how to use it. I am doing our drill mounts the old fashioned way (by hand). Only problem is, the Smart Drill was purchased several years ago, before I started here, and I can't find a user manual for it. Does anyone know who makes the Smart Drill so I can do a search and find a users manual? Thanks for helping :)

The easiest way to use it is to use it like a hand drill, but with more precision and accuracy. For instance, Silhoutte mountings almost all take a #54 drill bit, and it you "zero"-index the drill bit at the level on the blocked lens that you wish to drill at, simply move the drill 3mm in and drill the first hole, and then move the drill another 3mm (total 6mm) for the second (most interior) hole. Repeat whereever you want holes.

For other rimless mountings, take some CR-39 or poly planos and use them as test lenses and experiment with hole sizes, notch sizes and spacings (and vertical offsets!). When you can drill a *test* lens satidfactorily, then record the drill bits and spacings used, and archive the information (somewhere). DO NOT EVER ASSUME THE *VERTICAL* POSITION OF THE HOLES IS ALWAYS THE SAME...SHAPE AXIS ERRORS ARE COMMON, AND YOU MUST BE AWARE OF THEM.

Hope this helps.

Barry
(Smart Drill Pro).

**Papa G** · 09-18-2008, 03:27 PM

It came with a CD and after watching it twice, I decided the only real way to use it was with common sense. Yes, run some test lenses to see about curve and tilt, and the #54 bit is the most common size. I have used this drill for a few years. Be careful with the bits, they break easy if not handled carefully.

**Ineed Chocolate** · 09-18-2008, 07:10 PM

Thanks for the link. I watched the video instruction. I think the one we have must be the original Smart Drill. I know it is not the SD II, gaging by the picture. I knew if I came here and asked questions, I would get guidance! You are both right in that I should run some practice lenses until I get it right...I will look at it further tomorrow and pull out my test lenses and see what trouble I can get into :).

**coffee joe** · 09-19-2008, 03:07 AM

i love the drill, but don't bother with the subscription to the formulas. there's never been a frame in the formulas database that i needed. with some practice you don't need them anyway. i usually take the lens that was mounted and block it up and use that as a guide to know where to place the holes. a micrometer is often useful for deciding what bit to use. i find it more accurate than just sticking the drills in the holes of the demo until one seems right; especially with positioning pins. measure the diameter of the pin and pick the bit closest in size to what you measured but not smaller. often the hole in the demo has grown some and if you pick the bit that fits well in the hole, you'll have a loose fit. also it sounds like you have the same model as me. the numbers on the 'base curve' guide don't mean a thing. just eyeball it. sounds counterintuitive, but it is more accurate.

**Ineed Chocolate** · 09-26-2008, 01:17 AM

Originally Posted by Barry Santini

The easiest way to use it is to use it like a hand drill, but with more precision and accuracy. For instance, Silhoutte mountings almost all take a #54 drill bit, and it you "zero"-index the drill bit at the level on the blocked lens that you wish to drill at, simply move the drill 3mm in and drill the first hole, and then move the drill another 3mm (total 6mm) for the second (most interior) hole. Repeat whereever you want holes.

For other rimless mountings, take some CR-39 or poly planos and use them as test lenses and experiment with hole sizes, notch sizes and spacings (and vertical offsets!). When you can drill a *test* lens satidfactorily, then record the drill bits and spacings used, and archive the information (somewhere). DO NOT EVER ASSUME THE *VERTICAL* POSITION OF THE HOLES IS ALWAYS THE SAME...SHAPE AXIS ERRORS ARE COMMON, AND YOU MUST BE AWARE OF THEM.

Hope this helps.

Barry
(Smart Drill Pro).

Our office had a major fire in the electrical wiring and has sustained much damage. As the SD was in our satellite location, it remained unharmed. I wish I could say the same for our dual laser and brand new retinal photo camera and computer set-up. Not to mention the optical dispenary. I'm getting off the subject. After I convinced my boss it would be easier, and cheaper to have our lab do all drill mounts, we have decided to sell the SD, since it is in top condition. Now, we are trying to come up with a price. I just took pictures of it today, but haven't posted them yet.