We've been using wax blocking since mid April now, and the only thing I don't like about it is that it's tough to get all of the wax residue off the blocks. It's like there's a thin film over them.
What's the best way you've found to get the waxy residue off your blocks? And please don't say "switch to alloy" or "real men use alloy" because that ain't gonna happen.
-Steve
Have you tried boiling in soapy water? It's the way I (and dental labs) get wax out of moulds.
Other thoughts.
Propane torch should make quick work of any residual wax after boiling.
Wax is also soluable (another post-boiling step) in Naptha. But don't do just before propane torch, as it does burn.
Last edited by chip anderson; 09-05-2008 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Propane
Crap - I forgot to post that. My idea was to get a <new and cheap> pan </new and cheap> at home to boil them in to see if that would work.
The wife doesn't generally like it when I mix lab-related stuff with cooking. :)
-Steve
Allright, I just tried something that got the blocks incredibly clean but I'll make sure lenses don't spontaneously deblock before posting what I did to them. :)
-Steve
hot water and good paper towels. Like bounty, not the cheapy ones
That will work.................but it still will leave a film you can not see. I have not worked with the wax system and am not familiar with the wax.Originally Posted by FullCircle
However I would say that there is for sure an easy chemical way to dissolve the residues. Where do you get the wax ? I would like to test it out if we could come up with a easy cleaning systems.
Hot water. Doesn't need to be soapy. Really hot water though.
We bought a cheap ($10) Crock-Pot and fill it with dish soap and water. Just make sure to dump the Crock-Pot every night and wipe it out while still hot. Rinse the blocks and wipe them off and you should be good to go. I do recommend using tongs and not fingers. We never had an issue with de-blocking using this.
Yeah, you have a bowl under the tap. Don a pair of disposable gloves, put block and wax under hot running water, peel off wax, drop block in bowl. Continue with other blocks. When you're done, take out each block individually and wipe down with paper towel. Any residue left is nominal and doesn't seem to affect performance of blocks or wax.
If you truly want to go the extra mile, do what we used to back in the alloy days - buff the blocks on your buffer. One of those white rag wheels always did the trick.
Or, shine 'em up with some WD-40. though I don't really recommend that as while it does remove wax, it leaves behind it's own residue that could affect wax performance.
Gloves? Gloves are for wimps! :D
I can't stand leaving waxy fingerprints on poly lenses before they go in the coater.
Odd thing is I make candles as a hobby and I don't mind the candlewax on my hands
Ok, so I used brake cleaner with a plastic scrubber (it didn't take much in the way of scrubbing) and it worked marvelously. I then rinsed with lots of soapy water to remove all brake cleaner residue so it wouldn't get into the wax. They looked brand new and the thin film of wax on the block is totally gone.
-Steve
Goo Gone?
I never used wax, just an idea!
From a chick's perspective, I love to use these candles at home called "wax tarts" The idea is you put the wax tart (scented wax, no wick) in a metal holder which also holds a tea-light (tiny candle) underneath to melt the wax tart. Benefits include plesant scent w/o lots of soot/etc. Anyway, the advice to change the wax tart after 2-3 uses is pop the holder in the freezer for about 10 minutes and then apply pressure to the wax, it comes right off in nice big chunks ready to be thrown away (or in your case added back into the blocker). Just a thought.
We used to use a small crock pot with it on the low setting. The water was hot enough that it did the trick, though you might have to use tongs to take them out!
"Some believe in destiny, and some believe in fate. But I believe that happiness is something we create."-Something More by Sugarland
We use denatured alcohol and sturdy paper towels for the "film" you're describing. It's safe for all of the lens materials, cr30, poly, trivex, and hi-index. If you want to go with the soapy water, we use a concentrate of Simple Green Clear and hot water to help get the wax off from the surface blocker.
At least I came up with the most caustic idea = brake cleaner.
-Steve
Wouldn't need this thread or the brake cleaner if you used alloy blocking.
Hi, my name is Ken and I am an alloykaholic.
A-ha! I pre-empted you in the original post! ;)
I used to use alloy, but after working with wax for a while, I've really come to like it a lot.
-Steve
Use a frame warmer (hottest setting) with two blocks in it at a time for a couple of seconds and then wipe with paper towels. Blocks should be fairly clean before you do this.
Ultrasonic hot cleaner.
Gerber Lens Washer
old thread...but I use a heated ultrasonic cleaner. A little Dawn soap optional.
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