Need help on rimless nylon groove frame

[InspectorQ]

What is the easiest way to remove lens from a full rimless nylon groove?

Frame in particular I'm having a difficult time with is the Ogami ukabu frame.


Usually iof it's hard then I would cut the nylon wire, however these are slightly tinted color and I do not have any to replace it with.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

[Jedi]

I like to use the lens twisting pliers and twist the lens enough to create a gap. Then I have one of my colleagues ready with a piece of nylon to insert into the gap and then you're off to the races.

[Fezz]

You work in a lab correct?

Do you have access to a tint unit? Cut the nylon as you normally would and use clear replacement nylon-but-try tinting the cord before you re-mount the lens!

[DragonLensmanWV]

Sometimes you can pull the temporal side out enough to slip in a ribbon, and then you're good to go.

[chip anderson]

It's easier if you use another piece of nylon chord under the edge. You usually have to grasp frame and pull edge slightly away from frame to get another piece of chord under it. Be sure and put quite a bit of chord through under the origional as it's difficult to grip if it is too short. Be carefull as you stretch the origional chord away from frame as it is possible if you have a thin ridge on each side of groove to chip the origional lens. Of course if you are replaceing it, this doesn't matter.
Remount the same way but you do have to be carefull here as you don't want to damage the new lenses.
Ribbon will often leave fibers in grove that you can't remove.
Chip

[Leighlee]

You work in a lab correct?

Do you have access to a tint unit? Cut the nylon as you normally would and use clear replacement nylon-but-try tinting the cord before you re-mount the lens!

Wow!! Now that is a good idea!! Experience speaks!

[MarySue]

Try using a Rimlon mounting tool - here's the link for Vigor tools - http://www.vigoroptical.com/44610.html

You can get the hook in at nasal or temporal edge. When you get good at this - you can do it one handed!

:idea:

[Diane]

I like to use the lens twisting pliers and twist the lens enough to create a gap. Then I have one of my colleagues ready with a piece of nylon to insert into the gap and then you're off to the races.

Axis plier works great...;)

Diane

[For-Life]

get a very thin pin. Slip it in the gap. Carefully move it along to the bottom. Then stick your finger nail in and carefully pull it out of the groove hole.

[Fezz]

A blunt nail and ball peen hammer works well on demo lenses!

[opticalwoman]

We use dental picks. The wire ones just like the dentist use on your teeth. You can buy them at Target. Make sure you use the ones with the thinnest metal, we have one or two with the thicker and it's easier to break the cord with those. We've used safety pins also, but if they side, they can draw blood.

[DragonLensmanWV]

A blunt nail and ball peen hammer works well on demo lenses!

Yeah, those thick roofing nails are the best!:cheers:

[Chris Ryser]

Wow!! Now that is a good idea!! Experience speaks!

Problem..................Nylin does not tint permanently :finger:

[DragonLensmanWV]

Problem..................Nylin does not tint permanently :finger:

It does if you use Micro-Tints!
:D

Actually, I have some slightly brown tinted nylon that I still have after 15 years (I tinted a bunch at once) and it's still tinted.

[obxeyeguy]

A blunt nail and ball peen hammer works well on demo lenses!

I use the peaning tip on the anvil.

[chip anderson]

Actually if you go to Acadamy Sports, or Bass Pro Shops, or probably any other place that has fishing supplies you can buy all the nylon chord you want in almost any color of the rainbow.

Chip

[Chris Ryser]

It does if you use Micro-Tints!
:D

Wow.................that proof's that we have never finished learning.

Now I can go after the fishing line industry............thats what the nylon threads on glasses are...................to tint their products from murky colors to azure blue so the fish wont see them.

And all opticians that don't use the tinting system will have to pay more for those specialty nylon threads.

[coffee joe]

i have to advise against any metal tools for this. at least when deglazing any brittle materials. it is very likely to chip the lens. my favorite nylor 'tool' is the strapping that is used to keep the large boxes of several reams of paper closed. not the criss-crossed kind, but the smooth kind that's about 3/8th " wide. cut it into pieces about 2" long each at about 35 deg angle to make a sharp point. it's small enough at the tip and stiff enough to get into small gaps, but wide enough that after you get it in it tends to pull the string up instead of out like it might do with a piece of line, making it less likely to chip.

as far as creating a gap i usually put the joint of the temple and the eye wire against the edge of the counter and push down gently and that will pull the frame away from the lens enough to slide something in there.

[LilKim]

my favorite nylor 'tool' is the strapping that is used to keep the large boxes of several reams of paper closed.

That's exactly the stuff I use to take apart/mount groove jobs. It works great until it starts to fray around the sides, but at least with that packing strip material, you don't have to worry about running out of it.

[opticalwoman]

i have to advise against any metal tools for this. at least when deglazing any brittle materials. it is very likely to chip the lens. my favorite nylor 'tool' is the strapping that is used to keep the large boxes of several reams of paper closed. not the criss-crossed kind, but the smooth kind that's about 3/8th " wide. cut it into pieces about 2" long each at about 35 deg angle to make a sharp point. it's small enough at the tip and stiff enough to get into small gaps, but wide enough that after you get it in it tends to pull the string up instead of out like it might do with a piece of line, making it less likely to chip.

as far as creating a gap i usually put the joint of the temple and the eye wire against the edge of the counter and push down gently and that will pull the frame away from the lens enough to slide something in there.

Do you allow patients to purchase rimless grooved in plastic and/or poly? We only sell grooved and drill mounts in trivex or high index 1.67 or higher. no cracking.:D

[Chris Ryser]

Do you allow patients to purchase rimless grooved in plastic and/or poly? We only sell grooved and drill mounts in trivex or high index 1.67 or higher. no cracking.

You are on a one way track, or maybe brainwashed by publicity from somewhere.

Rimless grooved and drilled used to be sold in glass by the millions during the times when no plastic of any kind was available. :hammer:

[DragonLensmanWV]

You are on a one way track, or maybe brainwashed by publicity from somewhere.

Rimless grooved and drilled used to be sold in glass by the millions during the times when no plastic of any kind was available. :hammer:

Drilled certainly, but grooved?

[Chris Ryser]

Drilled certainly, but grooved?

Dragon...............................certainly. In the mid to late 1950's Essilor introduced their frame line called NYLOR frames in metal which had a patented nylon tongue on top which would hold the grooved lens in place and the on the nasal and temporal side 2 holes drilled into the rim where the nylon thread was attached.

This frame line became the instant bestseller in rimless frames in Europe, because there was no more glass drilling needed and grooving was much easier. Essilor also supplied a simple groover that worked like a charm. At the time there was no ESSILOR USA and I guess these frames neve sold this side of the pond.
Read up on Essilors history at:
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/compa...y-History.html

Actually we grooved thousand of glass lenses in the 50'and 60's and it was easy to make dozens of shapes as long as you kept the top curve,

[DragonLensmanWV]

Dragon...............................certainly. In the mid to late 1950's Essilor introduced their frame line called NYLOR frames in metal which had a patented nylon tongue on top which would hold the grooved lens in place and the on the nasal and temporal side 2 holes drilled into the rim where the nylon thread was attached.

This frame line became the instant bestseller in rimless frames in Europe, because there was no more glass drilling needed and grooving was much easier. Essilor also supplied a simple groover that worked like a charm. At the time there was no ESSILOR USA and I guess these frames neve sold this side of the pond.
Read up on Essilors history at:
http://www.fundinguniverse.com/compa...y-History.html

Actually we grooved thousand of glass lenses in the 50'and 60's and it was easy to make dozens of shapes as long as you kept the top curve,

Ok, I was pretty sure that none had been done here. I assume the Essilor groover was the one that Logo introduced here in the US when they made their debut.
I did a few of the Essel frames with the rubber strip at the top.

[chip anderson]

While I never dispensed any, grooved glass was once available in this area and it seemed to work O.K. most of the time.

Chip