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Thread: Blocking pads for Super Hydrophobic Lenses

  1. #1
    Bad address email on file bbatts's Avatar
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    Blocking pads for Super Hydrophobic Lenses

    We have recently purchased an edger and are looking for the best pads to use with Super Hydrophobic AR lenses(Teflon, Pentax ECP).....I have been using some old 3M pads and would really like to find somthing better!!

    Any Suggestions??????

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    Master OptiBoarder Ginster's Avatar
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    What works for us...

    We put small round surface blocker tape on the front side before blocking and then one on the back before we edge and do not have any trouble with slipage. hope this helps.

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    Which blocking system are you using? Flexible blocks or rigid?

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    Bad address email on file bbatts's Avatar
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    We are using rigid blocks, the real problem that I am having is not slippage, it is getting the block to stay on long enough to retouch if needed, the blocks are coming off easily.

  5. #5
    Deleted1234
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    Last edited by Deleted1234; 10-20-2010 at 06:39 PM.

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    Bad address email on file bbatts's Avatar
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    pad and block coming off the lens in one piece

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    Master OptiBoarder Ginster's Avatar
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    Surface Tape

    This is the only way I"ve been able to keep the block and the pad on the lens, use that small round surface tape on the lens before you block it up then a peice on the back to keep it from spinning on the back of the lens. this is avial. were you purchase your leak pads it comes on a roll like the larger surface tape does only its small round dots enough for an edger block, We get ours at BPI. Also when you order the lenses with A/R from the lab they usually send you the tape to apply before blocking and a peice for the back of the lens.:)

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    Deleted1234
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    Last edited by Deleted1234; 10-20-2010 at 06:39 PM.

  9. #9
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    We use

    The new, Leap III LSE (low Surface Energy) Fixed all our shape axis/slippage problems, but be careful deblocking...you can ruin the AR if not done gently.

    We also tried these inconjunction with soft (BPI) blocks...but that marriage was a disaster!.. It's regular, hard blocks for me.

    FWIW

    barry

  10. #10
    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    Alloy blocks here with SecurEdge pads. Zero problems. Many large labs use these exclusively for hydro lenses also.

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    Master OptiBoarder TLG's Avatar
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    Barry,
    Is that a blocking pad you use without additional 'surface-saver' type pads?

    Anyone,
    I run a Santinelli edger (le-9000lx) that has 'feelers' that trace the front and back of lens before edging. I have trouble when using the oval blocking disks in addition to the blocking pad due to the feelers catching the edge. This causes an error and ends the edging cycle. Anyone have suggestions to make these work on this type edger?

  12. #12
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLG View Post
    Barry,
    Is that a blocking pad you use without additional 'surface-saver' type pads?

    Anyone,
    I run a Santinelli edger (le-9000lx) that has 'feelers' that trace the front and back of lens before edging. I have trouble when using the oval blocking disks in addition to the blocking pad due to the feelers catching the edge. This causes an error and ends the edging cycle. Anyone have suggestions to make these work on this type edger?
    I also use the Secure Edge pads but for super-slicks I also use the film pads that come with the lenses or some that I got from Optisource. I also put a regular Secure Edge pad on the back surface.
    My Optronics 6-E edger also has the probes similar to yours and I sometimes have problems with the probes contacting the edging pad. So what I do for the small ones like that is I cut the pad down on the block to the same size as the block so there's no pad sticking out from underneath the block.I also have the LEAP LSE pads which I sometimes use, but are not totally sold on.
    DragonlensmanWV N.A.O.L.
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  13. #13
    Master OptiBoarder TLG's Avatar
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    I've tried cutting the disks down too. I'm not real smart, but common sense tells me those disks are only better because they cover more surface area (they are obviously less adhesive overall) so I don't really feel like I'm accomplishing anything that way. The other thing I dislike about the disks is that they are very difficult to see clearly enuf thru to be able to see a seg line for accurate blocking (I've got a pretty crappy blocker).

  14. #14
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    we have an 8 year old gamma blocker, and we use the dac blue edge on the front and optisource red half eye without the hole on the back of the lens. This is what we have been successful with after ruining too many super slick ar lenses and lots of experimentation.

  15. #15
    Master OptiBoarder snowmonster's Avatar
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    I think the cheap DAC pads actually stick the best and are some of the cheaper options out there. We've had nearly zero problems with the block popping off while trying to see if the lens fits, etc. We have been using SecureEdge for the past 2 months and I hate them. They always pop off the lens, especially if we're trying to get a lens to snap into a zyl frame.

    We actually cut down a 24 mm DAC blue pad (if we need to) if we're going to edge a lens into a zyl frame now to limit the problems.
    -Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    We also tried these inconjunction with soft (BPI) blocks...but that marriage was a disaster!.. It's regular, hard blocks for me.

    FWIW

    barry
    Barry,
    What was the disaster that you speak of? I tried the BPI red, and they seem to work well. The plusses that I see are that they flex instead of the lens, so the coating won't craze and the bevel is in the correct place on thin stock lenses. Also, since they flex, you get a much larger contact area, regardless of the BC. I can see how it's possible that they could twist slightly under high torque. Also, the pads stick HARD to the block, so there is a much less chance of slipping between the block and pad.
    So when I started to have problems I switched to the Blue hard ones per recommendations from my experts. I have the BPI red in reserve.], in case it wasn't the blocks.

  17. #17
    Manuf. Lens Surface Treatments
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    Blue Jumper Alternative..................

    There is still the logic other alternaqtive...............................

    Order the lenses without the slick coats..................cut them without any problem..............and then

    apply the slick coat yourself and save problems and money and end up with the same results.
    Chris Ryser
    ________________________________________
    DLO. NA.IC.I.T.PO

    http://optochemicals.com............................. http://arcoatings.com

  18. #18
    Master OptiBoarder snowmonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    The new, Leap III LSE (low Surface Energy) Fixed all our shape axis/slippage problems, but be careful deblocking...you can ruin the AR if not done gently.
    Barry - do you use the Leap III LSE pads with or without any of the Rikki/non-slip pads?
    -Steve

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    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    Personally, I use nothing but SecurEdge and the non-slip coat they apply at coating. (no blue stickies) I also edge on geo-center and by-pass the "idiot" mode where the edger does the decentration.

  20. #20
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    Does anybody know of a company who can supply us with Glazing edging pads here in the UK, we have had quotes from the main suppliers in the UK, but their mark up is high.

    I have been emailing companies in the US, Turkey, Italy and India who actually make and produce these pads and was wondering if anybody wanted to share what information they have on their pads.

    So long as we are not talking stupid figures we can buy in bulk, and we are interested in any kind of edging pads from budget through top of the range hydrophobic pads.

    Cheers
    Kevin Byrne

  21. #21
    OptiBoard Professional Mauro.Airoldi's Avatar
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    If you are interesting to a mono adesive pad for super top coat i suggest you to buy from PBG Italy http://www.pbg.it/default.aspx the code is MT0904 . the pad are OK and we have no troubles on lens rotation.

  22. #22
    Master OptiBoarder
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    secure edge plus, with antislip stickers on both sides.

  23. #23
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    My "no problems" set-up

    Caveat, I only edge Avance' as it is the only superduperA/R we sell

    Edger: Optronics 6E (yes just a plain ole 6E)

    Blocking system 3M AIT solid blocks

    Pads, 3M 1700M

    Routine: Block-up directly pad to bare lense, place 3M blue chip on the back surface of lense.

    The only time I have slippage problems is when the cutter blade starts to get dull.

  24. #24
    ABO-AC, NCLEC bob_f_aboc's Avatar
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    I use DAC's HydroEdge Pads for all of our hydro/oleophobic lenses.

    These pads work great by themselves with no stickers or additions required.

    The only downside to these is the fact that the adhesive will let go almost as soon as the chuck pressure is released. Make sure your edger is on size!!!!!
    A lack of planning on your part DOES NOT constitute an emergency on mine!

  25. #25
    Rising Star
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    we use hilco oleophobic blocking pads

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