From Sales to Surfacing

[eyecarepro]

I have only been in the business of selling and dispensing eyewear now for about 4 years, when patients ask though, I usually add a year to put them a little more at ease. I have worked at an optical shop in a major department store for a year, one of the largest chains in the United States for two years, and now a large franchise owned company for over a year. In the last year I have worked at this franchise owned company I have learned both finishing and surfacing. We do lab work for our store, plus alot of the surfacing work for our four other locations. Only recently, like within the last four months or so, have I been able to hone my surfacing skills. I still make stupid mistakes that cost us approximately $10-25 a lens. Most of the mistakes I make could be avoided if I paid better attention. I'm definitely more adept on the sales floor. Considering the size of our store, my sales roughly equate to about a quarter of what we pull in in a month even though I have spent more time in the lab.
I'm frustrated, because I still have a few unanswered questions that plague my already overcluttered and complex mind. For instance: What's more expensive a 70mm semi-finished blank, or a 75mm? I find an increasing need for a larger lens blank for certain jobs. What about the alloy machine- I use one with a lever that you pull down to release the molten alloy into the blocking tool. The spring in the lever is overly sensitive, you have to wait an hour sometimes two before using the machine or you might snap the spring in the lever. Is there any other more modern alloy machines out there, because the one I use has become a source of great agitation. And I am NOT a patient person. If you touch the alloy (accidentally) with your bare hands or anyother part of your body can it make you sterile? (That one REALLY worries me) I have heard that, so I freak out if I accidentally touch it. I am usually wearing rubber gloves, but sometimes I'm in a hurry and don't put them on. I'm full of questions during the normal course of a day, but we're usually too busy for my questions to be asked or answered, so I thought this to be the perfect place to propose my questions.

[Joann Raytar]

I find an increasing need for a larger lens blank for certain jobs.

Do you stock both size blanks? If not, don't order the larger blanks you can surface them. Surfacing will allow for decentration for big frames or very narrow PD's. If you are running plus lenses, smaller blanks tend to look nicer if they will cut out.

The spring in the lever is overly sensitive, you have to wait an hour sometimes two before using the machine or you might snap the spring in the lever.

Your blocker needs some maintainance. There shouldn't be that much tension on the handle. Is the pot temperature set to your alloy's melting point (Usually 117 Degrees, there is another temperature of alloy but I honestly don't remember what it is.) is your stem temperature running just a few degrees higher (You can check this by sticking a high heat thermometer in the stem, check it when the pilot light just goes out after a heating cycle.) Don't turn the temps up too high or the alloy will break down. It should only take about half an hour for your machine to be ready to run after it is turned on. You can also check and make sure there is a good seal around the lid that you open to refill the alloy. Make sure the rubber gasket that goes around it is in good shape and the clamps close the lid right. There are a few other things that you could check (brass screw if there is one, dirt in the assembly, a bad heating element, some units have diaphrams that wear out, and broken moveable parts) but these involve opening the machine up and poking around inside.

Alloy needs to enter the blood stream to become dangerous. Don't ingest it and don't get it in cuts (the reason for the gloves). Check around the machine or where you store the alloy, there may be a primary colored label with numbers and warnings on it. This is an MSDS label. Your lab may also have a book of MSDS data sheets that give you alot of information about the chemicals you work with, their hazards and what to do if something goes wrong. If the lab doesn't have the book, most manufacturers will supply you with MSDS sheets at your request.

You had a good question. On OptiBoard, you don't have to worry about asking anything; we all love to chat away. ;)

[hcjilson]

Dear ecp,
Congratulations on your first post!(I haven't even sent your welcome letter yet!)You will find a Ton of qualified lab folk to help you along.Don't ever fail to tap that resource.
I wouldn't waste a lot of time worrying about how much time you have in the indusry when talking "out front".You will find that your lab experience will round out your education and that will come across as confidence to your customer.
Best wishes from Harry J

[chip anderson]

Don't worry too much about it, if it were not for stupid mistakes I would not make any. Even those that seemed intelligent at the time seem stupid when they don't work out. I have been in this business over 40 years and still make enough mistakes to effect my bottom line. Perhaps one of my worst mistakes is not getting out of the business.

:D Chip

[Judy Canty]

That's why they put erasers on pencils! You've found the right place to come for answers to your questions. We're all experts in one area or another, so ask away!:D

[LaurieC]

Well, first of all, let me applaude you for your desire to learn! Mistakes? This is part of the process. Everytime you braek a lens you learn how not to do it again. Same thing with frames, until you blister or snap a few you don't know how far is too far or how hot is too hot. Then your hands and brain connect and you get your natural "instinct" for it. This is why the best educational programs include a lot of hands on instruction.
As to what these mistakes on lenses are costing $10 to $25 per lenses seems like a high estimate. You're either processing a lot of premium product or you're overpaying for your stock. Whether to stock 70 and/or 75 mm blanks depends on a number of factors, Jo is absolutely right that it may make more sense to surface as necessary. There is a basic formula used in profitable and efficient inventory management that applies to all types of products. It would involve needing to use specific numbers for your location. Essentially you take volume in units, turns (how many times in a specific period that sku sells versus how many numbers of that sku you stock), cost, and gross margin. If you influence purchasing and want to learn how to apply this formula, let me know. I'll send it to you and walk you through it.
Again, let me reinforce what Jo said, your blocker needs maintanence! There are other types of blocking systems out there, wax being one of them. As long as proper procedures are in place though, you need not worry about the alloy. Use gloves, mask and eye protection. In 15 years in the business, I only know of one case of poisoning from the alloy. This occurred under an extreme condition of a rush to salvage immediately following a fire in a surface lab. Hard to pay attention to what you're doing when the air is still full of smoke and the sprinklers keep going off!
Furthermore, it is treatable with no lasting effects if treated in a timely manner. But don't be alarmed.As long as the MSDS guidelines are followed, a lab is a very safe place.

[Jim G]

The issue is not whether we make errors, it's what we learn from them. (If I learned from all my errors, I'd be a genius. Obviously, I didn't!)

Re: alloy. Among other things, it contains some lead and cadmium, both bad guys. You really should wear disposable gloves when handling alloy and certainly wash before eating, smoking, whatever.

However, the reclaim tank is really more "dangerous" as the lead and cadmium "leaches" out into the water. We ran tests several years ago and the water approaches hazardous waste levels after about 100 lenses. Please ensure that you are dumping the water every 100 lenses (50 pair) or so. Also, rinse the sink well after dumping. And wash your hands as well.

[JRS]

In response to Jim G's remarks on the reclaim tank - depending on your STATE codes, dumping the water down the drain may get you in trouble. You are tossing heavy metals into the sewer system.
Jo - the other alloy is 158 degree - used for glass.

In agreement on the blocker - needs help. One of the reasons you maybe having so many problems with the 'lever' is that the allow may have broken down. Look for a black soot, and/or alloy that does not seem to melt unless you jack the temperture up real high. That stuff gets down in the diaphram and doesn't eject. Hence hard to pump. Since you mentioned having to wait for up to 2 hours before you can use it, I assume the temperture is being set high to un-stick the diaphram.

I do not understand why you would need more 75mm lenses. Given todays frame sizes 70 works in most cases. Again I will make an assumption - that assumption is you are deciding what size you 'think' you need. Don't you have a computer/calculator that gives you (at least) a minimum blank size based on A,B,ED and PD? But as a direct answer to your question - yes, 75mm semifinished usually costs more than a 70mm semifinished.

[John R]

Having surfaced for 26 years now, you just have to remember not to be silly with metal (how many of use can think back at the daft things we have done with it before) as has been said wear gloves we use cotton ones just as a form of barrier protection, wash hands before eating (not in the reclaim tank either) . Not heard of anyone gonig sterile yet (senile yes). I guess the figure or $10-$25 is what you are selling for ? dont worry everybody makes mistakes just dont keep making the same one everytime though.
Look forward to more questions.

[Sean]

What type of alloy machine are you using?

[Jeff Trail]

Sean With the "handle" at the top and running 117 it sounds like it maybe a 99 blocker being used :-)

Now to the other points......

The $10-$25 cost is probably a number being thrown around that INCLUDES the lens and the cost to reproduce the cut (time=$)pads, electric etc., etc...

Also talking about the 70 vs. 75mm blanks .. well you guys are thinking about "surfacing" as saving money.. that's not always true, you have to consider work load and cost effective production... if you are running backed up and makes more sense to order a 75mm finished lens you get the next day than tie up your equipment and time to save a couple of dollars.. in the long run if you are a busy lab it is more cost effective to order the finished blanks when possible..
You get 70's finished for around a $1.50.. a 75mm add around .75 to a 1.00 to the price.. to produce that pair can it be done for .75 to a 1.00 ? nope :-)
That is another IMPORTANT part of being a lab rat you have to know the best times to cut and what works best to keep the maximum work flow going and keeping the price of that production to a minimum.
Most people think we "lab rats" are not the brightest bunch but a lab can make or break an optical pretty quickly.
To get get at lab work you have to understand what each part of the process is doing and how each part is having an effect to the next step down the line.. BLOCKING is the key step in the process and if you do not learn to block correctly it will lead to all types of errors and redo's (prism,off axis,warping etc. etc.) .. take an xtra second to make sure that the blocking is done correctly, and if in doubt DEBLOCK and retape and try it again.. if you mess up there and run it through you just wasted a lens and ALL THE TIME it took to generate and fine and polish.. once you really get into the swing you can get good enough to actually look at lens coming off the generator and can spot if there is prism in the lens (unwanted lens at least)which can be fixed most times in the fining stage by running the blocks offset.
The first step to making ANY lab productive is making sure EVERYTHING is dialed in.. I grease my generator every two days, on Fridays run a couple of plano blanks and check the lens for any prism in the generator (vertical or horizontal) and curves, on the cylinder machines I check the tables every morning and check the pins for any uneven wear, and every couple a days throw the axis blocks on the cylinder machine for a quick check to see if the axis is off and check for cycle placement (vertical and horizontal)
Keeping the blocker in working order is fairly simple, you need to keep track of the temps.. the 117 to 122 is good for the pot and 120 to 125 in the stem is ok... give it a little squirt BEFORE putting the block in there to clear any high temp alloy from the stem, if you are running the temps more than 130 you will be warping EVERY lens (specially transitions, high and mid index lens) ..another thing JR mentioned about the alloy breaking down.. a good trick is to clean the alloy with white vinegar after it comes out of the reclaim tank.. just a little caps full in the alloy and swirl it around and the "dirt" will come right to the surface and you just wipe it up with a paper towel :-)
DO NOT clean it in the blocker because you will start running into all kinds of problems by knocking the existing crud from the pot and getting it up into the pump and stem.. if it is really messy and has not been cleaned for a long time you might want to send the pot out and have it sand blasted.. in the long run it would be cheaper to get rid of the problem once and for all...
Last answer... you wanted to know if there was other things out there? Yes a one step wax blocking system, it is not very cheap and most places hate to up grade when it's just in a retail location...
Other than that I think a lot of people hit on the high points already... keep plugging away and try to understand the theoretical things happening to the lens optically while you are doing it and you'll soon learn to be able to take some short cuts and some of the tricks of the trade...

Jeff "know's surfacing..wishes I didn't at times" Trail