What brand of high index can we tint to a three?
What brand of high index can we tint to a three?
Jana Lewis
ABOC , NCLE
A fine quotation is a diamond on the finger of a man of wit, and a pebble in the hand of a fool.
Joseph Roux
Thank you for the info Chris.
I'm thinking this not what I need right now though. I have a set of lenses waiting and the tint is not what we need. I need to re-order but am looking for something that will tint better than what I currently have.
Thank you for your info though!
Jana Lewis
ABOC , NCLE
A fine quotation is a diamond on the finger of a man of wit, and a pebble in the hand of a fool.
Joseph Roux
[quote=Jana Lewis;168212]
I need to re-order but am looking for something that will tint better than what I currently have.
[quote]
Jana.........................there is no high index material that tints better....................if it is tintable, any and each different brand will tint as bad as the next other one.
They all take hours in the dye pot and will not go higher than about 45% absorbtion.
[quote=Chris Ryser;168215][quote=Jana Lewis;168212]
I need to re-order but am looking for something that will tint better than what I currently have.
Jana.........................there is no high index material that tints better....................if it is tintable, any and each different brand will tint as bad as the next other one.
They all take hours in the dye pot and will not go higher than about 45% absorbtion.
OHHHHH! Okay! Coffee has not kicked in just yet! :hammer:
Jana Lewis
ABOC , NCLE
A fine quotation is a diamond on the finger of a man of wit, and a pebble in the hand of a fool.
Joseph Roux
Don't know if I agree with that - with proper techniques (and granted, many lab techs just don't have those any longer) a hi index (> 1.66) lens can be taken to 80% or better within an hour or so. I've done that countless times with very little spoilage. It's a matter of turning down the pot temps and keeping the solids within the dye suspended (aka stir the pot).
Then again, Chris is turning a thread into a self-promotion of his products...so I suppose I'll just let him do that....
Seiko 1.6 and 1.67 tint well. Dont overheat them. Best bet is use fresh tint, they dont like neutralizer. Keep it simple. They like to turn blue as opposed to grey so have pink at the ready. If you are going green or G-15 have blue and yellow ready to adjust the hue. If you are looking for brown have grey pink and yellow ready.
Becareful. I have ordered cheap brands and got the lenses different colours or one tinted and one not tinted.
If above statement were true......you should have gone on the lecture curcuit teaching everybody how to do it.
As stated in the other threads..........high index materials are not tint friendly, accept color mixes in different ways than CR39 and so do also many hard coats.
Then again..................I am probably the only one that has invested a few years of my R&D activities on coming up with a way of tinting lenses that is faster ,cleaner, more efficient without toxic fumes than the 35 year old old method............Then again, Chris is turning a thread into a self-promotion of his products...so I suppose I'll just let him do that....
..............using adapted restaurant food warmers that tint slow and emit toxic vapours and require outside ventilation if you dont want to end up with long term damage on your kidneys, liver and brain, including reproductive organs.
So please forgive me when I plug my brainchild that is a different and new technique and that just works faster and better on new materials..
As a manufacturer of tint, coatings and chemicals we find the solution to this problem is in the tint formulation. If the tint is formulated correctly, using deionized water and at the proper temperature, any type of plastic lens will tint to a deep dark rich color. We know a little something about tinting since the history and heritage of our business and formulations go back more than 33 years to the roots of tinting plastic lenses.
The most common problems and errors
If you heat a liquid, it will give off a vapor, whether it is on your kitchen stove top, tint machine or in a microwave. Because you do not see it or smell it does not mean the vapor is not there.
- Poorly formulated tint. Properly manufactured tint should stay in solution. If it is a dry packet, it lacks the proper surfactants, wetting agents and leveling agent to maintain the solution. Most dry tints have none of these important ingredients. If it is a concentrated tint, it often is mixed with the wrong type of water or the wrong amount of water. People keep adding water as they us it. An example is soup, keep adding water as you use the soup. After a while you have water and not soup.
- Wrong type of water. Using tap water will spoil every type of tint due to chemicals and minerals in the water such as chlorine, fluoride, iron and various other minerals. An example, put hot pepper sauce on your child's ice cream and see if it matters. Small amounts of a substance matters a great deal. Because you do not see it, it does not mean it is not there. Using distilled water is not much better. Both tap and distilled water have an electrical charge. Deionized water has no electrical charge which allows the tint to bond to the surface of the lens much faster, easier and using less tint. The laws of physics and chemistry govern the process. Using the wrong ingredients only results in disappointment in the outcome.
- Lens Coatings. Many types of lens coatings used in the finishing of lens greatly reduce or limit the ability to tint. We manufacturer tintable lens coatings (primers, hard coating & scratch coating) which we only sell to lens manufacturers and distributors.
All labs need proper ventilation, to suggest, anything else is a serious disregard for public safety. At Optical Chemicals, we take safety very seriously.
We wish everyone a very happy and safe holiday season.
Last edited by LKahn; 12-12-2006 at 01:52 PM. Reason: typo
I prefer not to hang around the tint machine all day so most everyone gets polorized lenses. The demo is so cool that hardly anyone say's no. If they insist (sigh), I order "tintable" poly or HI from my lab and do my best.
I was under the impression that high index doesn't tint, but some have tintable SRC. So, you've got to look for a brand w/ a tintable scratch coat. Uncoated high index will not absorb dye (that's what I heard, and it seems true from my experience with high index tinting!)
I'd love to say - WOW Chris - prove it! But that's pointless...go ahead, keep self-promoting and lying - afterall, what did PT Barnum say?..."There's a sucker born every minute"? Sales is all about promoting your own product while disparaging the competition - say it enough times the suckers will finally believe you.
I agree with LKahn - use a quality tint, good water soruce, and quality lenses with good coatings. But those are all good techniques - something many labs and lab techs have neglected. So with that said, I can see the need for your product. But for you to make a blanket statement that it 'takes hours' and you'll only get '45% absorbtion' is very unfair.
What a wonderful negative personality you must have to accuse others of lying without a toe to stand on while hiding behind the mask and curtain of anonimity.
I have looked at some other unrelated postings you have made and they are all in the same negative context.
Poeple that make statements like you just did are not worth responding to because they are backward, uncivilized and rude.
At times, Chris and I have disagreed on a point. But, from my observation, Chris Ryser is a great reservoir of a experience and information. Several years ago, he patented an innovation in the process of tinting. Chris, thank you for your experience, innovation and generosity in providing support to the participants in this forum.
The value of this forum is the civil interchange of ideas between peers.
I wish everyone a happy and safe holiday season.
WE surface and coat our lenses. We have NO problem tinting any lense to 80%, and it DOES NOT take hours!
[quote=Chris Ryser;168215][quote=Jana Lewis;168212]
I need to re-order but am looking for something that will tint better than what I currently have.
Jana.........................there is no high index material that tints better....................if it is tintable, any and each different brand will tint as bad as the next other one.
They all take hours in the dye pot and will not go higher than about 45% absorbtion.
Joseph Felker
AllentownOptical.com
[quote=jofelk;168565]WE surface and coat our lenses. We have NO problem tinting any lense to 80%, and it DOES NOT take hours!
[quote=Chris Ryser;168215]
Of course if they are coated with a tintable coat you have no problem whatsoever.
..........but tint one that is not coated.
What??? OMG...You didn't just say that. Who in their right mind would attempt to tint much less sell an uncoated hi-index product (if one even exists).Originally Posted by Chris Ryser;168581Of course if they are coated with a tintable coat you have no problem whatsoever. [B
Chris, most of my negative comments have been towards you - this is a board full of great information and no one would suggest you are not apart of the information chain. But...You constantly throw out blanket statements like you have throughout this thread that have no basis for fact other than to promote your products.
I'd like to highlight something you said: Poeple that make statements like you just did are not worth responding to because they are backward, uncivilized and rude. Let's break that down now shall we? "People that make statements like you just did..." What was my statement...:
What part of that statement makes me "backward, uncivilized and rude."? That I am willing to stand my ground and call it like I see it? That I'm willing to call a duck a duck (if it walks, quacks, and looks like a duck, it's a duck)? How am I backwards, uncivilized, and rude Chris?I'd love to say - WOW Chris - prove it! But that's pointless...go ahead, keep self-promoting and lying - afterall, what did PT Barnum say?..."There's a sucker born every minute"? Sales is all about promoting your own product while disparaging the competition - say it enough times the suckers will finally believe you.
I agree with LKahn - use a quality tint, good water soruce, and quality lenses with good coatings. But those are all good techniques - something many labs and lab techs have neglected. So with that said, I can see the need for your product. But for you to make a blanket statement that it 'takes hours' and you'll only get '45% absorbtion' is very unfair.
What I find rude is someone who self-promotes at the expense of the truth. You just admitted (Of course if they are coated with a tintable coat you have no problem whatsoever) that hi-index lens can be tinted to 80%(they're all coated with a tintable coating unless you specifically put a non-tintable hardcoat on it). Yet throughout spouted off about nothing more than selling your own product because "They (hi-index lenses) all take hours in the dye pot and will not go higher than about 45% absorbtion."
Chris, I have no real problems with you promoting your company - I do have a problem with you bashing other possible solutions to problems that your products take care of. I'm sure your products are great - but there are other solutions available to every problem - good, bad, or ugly. Your solutions may be the best for you - they many not be for others. But when you blatantly lie about things for the sake of promotion - that's simply bad news.
Respectfully your,
backward, uncivilized and rude
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