Tips on Poly Tinting

[Grubendol]

We have a BPI tint system here, and I have some Poly tints from Opti-Source, but they take forever to tint. Is there a good alternative out there for tinting poly? I know I've seen mention of the microwave system before, but is that poly-safe as well?

Any help is appreciated....Thanks again to everyone here for providing such a great wealth of info!

[HarryChiling]

If you contact Chris Ryser on this board he will give you information on the best procedures for tinting and what tints are the best.

I would recommend that you check to see if your poly lenses are tintable or not. Check with the manufacturer, all poly's are not made the same.

[Grubendol]

Thanks!

[Jim Stone]

We have a BPI tint system here, and I have some Poly tints from Opti-Source, but they take forever to tint. Is there a good alternative out there for tinting poly? I know I've seen mention of the microwave system before, but is that poly-safe as well?

Any help is appreciated....Thanks again to everyone here for providing such a great wealth of info!

The BEST solution if you need a dark tint is not to use poly. Poly does not tint. Only the coating tints. When you tint them dark, the coating gets saturated with tint particles. This deteriorates the coating and shortens the life of the lens.

[chip anderson]

Not something I personally have experience with, but attended a lecture once that said a drop of detergent in the tint solution will work miracles.

[For-Life]

even so, I have only seen poly tint up to about 65/70

[Grubendol]

Well I know poly is not the first choice for tinting, but in some cases it's really the best choice (high impact sports and the such)...unless there is another material I should be using in those situations? I've been in optical off and on for over 15 years, but I've only been running the lab here for about 5 months, so I'm sure there is still plenty for me to learn in the way of material/lens choices.

even so, I have only seen poly tint up to about 65/70

Our wholesale lab regularly tints up to 75% for us. So it seems like it's possible

[Jedi]

Poly polarized is a good alternative to tinting poly.

[Framebender]

using Trivex for high impact sun lenses. The tinting time is quicker and we find that we are able to tint it in house without problems. It also has a higher abbe value.

[Chris Ryser]

using Trivex for high impact sun lenses. The tinting time is quicker and we find that we are able to tint it in house without problems. It also has a higher abbe value.

Uncoated Trivex is not tintable. It will adhere the dye only on a temporary basis and will wipe off with any solvent.

However with the Micro Tint System you can titn ABY hard to do lens in a few minutes to uo to 80 percent absorbtion, plus in a small operation you might use onlly 1 bottle of dye in 12 month.

Look it up at http://optochemicals.com and scroll down the main page until you get to the Micrro Tints.

You will be able to tint ANYTHING in just minutes or seconds and wont need any expensive tinting machine-food warmer

[shellrob]

Poly polarized is a good alternative to tinting poly.

Agreed, I've had too many problems tinting poly, although I've done ok with coated trivex. I still prefer polarized over tinted anyday and will always recommend that.

[Grubendol]

Agreed, I've had too many problems tinting poly, although I've done ok with coated trivex. I still prefer polarized over tinted anyday and will always recommend that.

Probably 75% of our sunglasses sold are poly polarized, so that's not really the issue, but thanks. Mainly the concern is for the few patients who have had problems with polarized or are looking for gradient tints.

[Chris Ryser]

Poly polarized is a good alternative to tinting poly.

Thats is ok..............specially when you sell it in a 24L gold frame.

How about normal people that do not live in the booming oil territory and can't afford the much higher price?

Are you sending them to the competition?

[optigrrl]

I used to have the hardest time tinting poly and hi-index but once I just doubled the pigment in the tank and the results were great. I have asked labs to do that on occaision and never had a problem.

[Jedi]

Thats is ok..............specially when you sell it in a 24L gold frame.

You mean Platnium right ;) .But regardless of income clients should be informed of all of the options. Now in my case I don't sell much poly and never have really needed to tint them, but I would recommend Polarized instead of tinted poly anyday.

[Chris Ryser]

That is all good.................if your customer is willing to come up with the funds...................but maybe just want the vasis.

[LKahn]

We are manufacturers of tints, coatings and chemicals for the optical industry since 1973. Specifically used in tint machines. A few suggestions

1. Do not add soap to your tint. It will add contaminates to the solution and reduce its performance.
2. Soak your lens in warm soapy water and rinse extremely well prior to placing in a tint machine.
3. If you are using a lens conditioner, do not heat it unless it specifically tells you to heat it. A number of lens conditioners give off extremely toxic fumes when heated. Read the label carefully.
4. Use only Deionized water if you are using a tint concentrate. Tap water contains chemicals (chlorine, flouride, etc) and minerals (iron, sulphur, calcium, etc) Tap water has an electrical charge which makes tinting more difficult. Deionized water does not contain any of these minerals or chemicals. Deionized water also has no electrical charge. This effects the physics of the tint attaching itself to surface of the polycarbonate lens. Distilled water has an electrical charge which makes tinting more difficult and slower.

If you would like to learn more about using tint in a tint machine visit our website, www.opticalchemicals.com Check out the FAQ tab. Also, we make the only tint sold in the optical industry that is consistent in color from bottle to bottle. It is exactly the same. No mixing, No measuring, No errors. Please contact us with any other questions regarding tints, coatings or optical chemicals. We also are the only manufacturer of tint machines with a UL label for safety.

[Grubendol]

We are manufacturers of tints, coatings and chemicals for the optical industry since 1973. Specifically used in tint machines. A few suggestions

1. Do not add soap to your tint. It will add contaminates to the solution and reduce its performance.
2. Soak your lens in warm soapy water and rinse extremely well prior to placing in a tint machine.
3. If you are using a lens conditioner, do not heat it unless it specifically tells you to heat it. A number of lens conditioners give off extremely toxic fumes when heated. Read the label carefully.
4. Use only Deionized water if you are using a tint concentrate. Tap water contains chemicals (chlorine, flouride, etc) and minerals (iron, sulphur, calcium, etc) Tap water has an electrical charge which makes tinting more difficult. Deionized water does not contain any of these minerals or chemicals. Deionized water also has no electrical charge. This effects the physics of the tint attaching itself to surface of the polycarbonate lens. Distilled water has an electrical charge which makes tinting more difficult and slower.

If you would like to learn more about using tint in a tint machine visit our website, www.opticalchemicals.com Check out the FAQ tab. Also, we make the only tint sold in the optical industry that is consistent in color from bottle to bottle. It is exactly the same. No mixing, No measuring, No errors. Please contact us with any other questions regarding tints, coatings or optical chemicals. We also are the only manufacturer of tint machines with a UL label for safety.

Thanks, but I do all of that already.

[Chris Ryser]

Thanks, but I do all of that already.

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