Screw problem
I am new to this and have a basic question which probably has dozen answers...
Basically, I cannot remove a screw from a metal frame. When I tried to push the screwdriver harder, the screw was chipping and I am afraid to go any further.
I heard that there is some liquid/oil that can be poured on a screw to ease it... is this true and are there any suggestions for how to deal with tough screws?
Many Thanks!
Liquid Wrench, available at any hardware store. Won't work for a screw that has been peened though (bottom end spread to prevent coming out). If screw has been peened you must carefully grind off the bottom (the part without a screwdriver slot) and then un-screw. If you get lucky enough even this won't work and you have to drill it out (really hard if the screw if of very hard material, one tends to either drill crooked, or slip off screw and drill a hole in frame or your finger.
Chip
Before you mess up the head of the screw too much, heat the frame in a frame warmer. this might loosen the laquer finish on the frame allowing the screw to turn more easily. (Assuming as Chip said, the screw is not peened).Originally Posted by Eyewearer
There are one or two screw removal tools, one made by Hilco, which punch the screw out. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Then of course, you'll have to replace the screw with a larger gauge one.
You might also use a blade file to try to make a deeper slot on the head of the screw if the screw is above the surface of the hinge.
heat works every time for me
Heat does work as does a little lubricant in between the screws and the frame. Whatever the case, do not try to strip the screw further by forcing it. Force will only worsen the screwhead.
I would not try punching it out unless this is the last resort. You will only damage the screw threads and cause future screws to be loose.
in addition to heating the screw, first turn it to the right slightly if you can, this will often break whatever is sealing it, then turn slowly and slightly to the left
I have a conspiracy theory concerning screws and frame manufactures. I think that the designers really hate opticians and lab techs and sit around trying to figure out how to make a screw impossible to remove. How do they decide to use a phillips or a flat head? Or a Torque 6? Screw you Oakley!
Just venting.
then to really get us back they invented the back mounted bevel. The back mounted bevel is a rare species, but can be very dangerous. On some flat metal frames instead of having the cut line show on the front they use the back mounted bevel, where you fight to get the lens down to the right size.
I seriously would like to kill that person. Especially when you have to match a tint in a plastic lens. Surfaced gradient, even worse.
/conspiracy
I hear ya. I hate those stupid things.
As for the prob. The heat always works for me to. The only thing I would add is if it's a flat head screw make sure you are using the largest flat head blade that will fit into the screw and maybe brace the frame before appling pressure( against a shelf or table top maybe).
Good Luck
After all those options fail, I will usually take that frame, place carefully on the sidewalk out back, adjust it with a ten pound sledge and return it as defective...but that's just me...:D
TO EDKENDANCE
We are a tint manufacturer suppling distributors and manufacturers. We make Tints ready to use which are consistent in color. No mixiing, no measuring, no errors. We are the only one in the optical marketplace offering this. Contact us for the name of a distributor.
When all else fails, a little WD-40 and ice The ice caused the metal to loosen up ever so slightly. But, it works every time.
I know this thread is old, but after reading the above, my sister had a 2 yr old lux frame with nosepads which had fallen out. she had never had them replaced. So I offered to assists. Three hard attempts to remove the flat head screw ruined the bevil. I applied hot wax, removed the wax, liquid wrench, dried it, removed it, then dipped in acetone. created a deeper belvil with a finger nail file. then took some toe nail cliippers, (cause i wasnt at the office) and used them to grasp and turn the remaining edges of the head of the screw which finally came out. I think this worked partly because the screw's metal was so soft enough to accomodate the grasp of the clippers. Judging from the quality of the screw metal and the ease with which the nose pad wires "gave" with pressure, i dont think it was intended for anyone to fix the frame. luckily, she didn't care if the frame broke, so no pressure there. but the paint stayed on except for where i missed with the file. had i left the liquid wrench on too long, it looks it was trying to take some paint off this black metal expensive brand. not sure which treatment caused the screw to realease. in hind sight, i shouldve applied the treatment at the first sign the screw was stuck.
Last edited by Polliwog; 07-10-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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