Ruining A/R lenses...A poll

[fjpod]

There is a lot of talk on this forum about A/R damage while edging. What edger are you using and how did you solve your problem? Which lenses are most problematic?

[eromitlab]

I've been using Kappa and Triumph edgers mostly for the past 4 or so years... the only times we've encountered AR damage was 1) when we discovered thinner lenses flexed more unless we used a black block and 2) when ECCA thought it smart to use AXIOM wheels, even though conventional ones cut Trive- oh no, sorry, "EV 4.0" just fine.

[For-Life]

I used to have some troubles with Airwear Crizal. I use the Essilor Delta.

I was using the light setting and double padding, but the odd job I was having troubles with. So eventually I figured out that it only happened to larger jobs. What happened was with smaller jobs it told to use a smaller chuck, but with the larger jobs I was using a larger chuck. Well the larger chuck created more flexing.

So now I use a small chuck for everything, and I never have any problems.

[Happylady]

I have had problems with the lenses slipping in the edger, though. I ruined a Teflon coated progressive when it slipped in the edger.

[culland]

I haven't really encountered any problems with my Kappa system. It's not something that I have to worry about. (knock on wood:) )

[Framebender]

We've got a Briot Accura and it works fine. We lost a couple when we first started doing the super coats, but not many.

[Aarlan]

I use the Santinelli LE 9000.

We have virtually no problems with edging a/r lenses. When edging Crizal Alize or SHV from Hoya we use special edging pads to prevent slipping and they work like a charm.

One exception I've found is Hoya came out with a top coat (view protect...supposed to help with cleaning, oleophobic, hydrophobic, etc.) that we put on one of their HV coatings, and even with the special gripping pad, the thing spun like a top in our edger. First and last time we had any problems...we just don't order that add on for jobs we edge in house.

AA

[fjpod]

I was using the light setting and double padding, but the odd job I was having troubles with. So eventually I figured out that it only happened to larger jobs. What happened was with smaller jobs it told to use a smaller chuck, but with the larger jobs I was using a larger chuck. Well the larger chuck created more flexing.

So now I use a small chuck for everything, and I never have any problems.

geezze...I don't know?? I get your point about more flexing, but I would think that a larger chuck, with the appropriate base large block (if you can get away with it) would be better because it distributes the torque forces over a larger area on the lens...reducing psi on any given spot of the lens...especially if you are using less chuck pressure.

I still think the sharpness of the cutter (wheel or blade) is the most important thing here.

[For-Life]

geezze...I don't know?? I get your point about more flexing, but I would think that a larger chuck, with the appropriate base large block (if you can get away with it) would be better because it distributes the torque forces over a larger area on the lens...reducing psi on any given spot of the lens...especially if you are using less chuck pressure.

I still think the sharpness of the cutter (wheel or blade) is the most important thing here.

the problem is that on one side we had the larger pad and on the other we had just the little holder.

[eromitlab]

sharpness is indeed an important part, but, the lenses will flex if the block allows it. it has little to do with the amount of surface area covered, but more about how much of it is under pressure from the clamp... using a black block will match the amount of surface area under pressure from the clamp (if using a small clamp pad) thus limiting the amount of flexion. double pads just reduce direct pressure from the clamp on the back side.