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Thread: National Optronics 7E

  1. #1
    Bad address email on file chrisleeja's Avatar
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    Wave National Optronics 7E

    Looking for some input on the 7E edger fron National Optronics. Is anyone familar with this machine?

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    I just had one installed today. A couple of notes:

    1) Very easy to use and understand keypad commands
    2) Maintenace and calibration instructions are in the equipment memory and can be displayed on the monitor.
    3) Very accurate with sizing, grooving, beveling and drill coordinates.
    4) Built in the USA

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    Master OptiBoarder LENNY's Avatar
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    Can you change the drilling angle in reference to the lens curvature?
    Can you independently change the B measurement and not touching A mewasurement!

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    Yes, it will take the lens data from your host system or you can let the edger probe the front surface.

  5. #5
    Bad address email on file chrisleeja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Star 69
    I just had one installed today. A couple of notes:

    1) Very easy to use and understand keypad commands
    2) Maintenace and calibration instructions are in the equipment memory and can be displayed on the monitor.
    3) Very accurate with sizing, grooving, beveling and drill coordinates.
    4) Built in the USA
    Sounds great Star! How is it with Trivex lenses? Hope to be getting mine early June, saw it at the show in New York and was very impressed. What edger system did you have before?
    Chris.

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    I've been cutting poly with no problem, using coated blade. Polish needs slight touch on the buffing wheel for better luster. So I believe Trivex will be no problem. Good luck with your new toy!

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    Tracer/blocker compatibility

    What tracer/blocker is compatible with the Optronics 7E? How do you capture or input the drill slot. I heard that there's data for the drilling of frames. Do you have to download them?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Quyen
    What tracer/blocker is compatible with the Optronics 7E? How do you capture or input the drill slot. I heard that there's data for the drilling of frames. Do you have to download them?
    The 7E uses the optronics 4T tracer. I think it can use others. The edger comes with a ton of rimless frames in it's drill database. You can add new frames or change existing settings at any time. The edger has a great screen for comparing your demo lens to the preprogrammed data.

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    Rising Star ASenior's Avatar
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    The 7E has an affixed drill angle. It will not measure "angle to BC" at its tangent point.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASenior
    The 7E has an affixed drill angle. It will not measure "angle to BC" at its tangent point.
    Yes, but we have drilled hundreds of jobs with never a problem. I don't think the angle of the drill would matter unless the lens had a base of less than 1.5 or greater than 7. Infact we were told that we could go up to 8.

    We still use primarily poly for drill jobs and we haven't had a job yet come back with those cracks that form from the hole. We've had it about a year now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod
    Yes, but we have drilled hundreds of jobs with never a problem. I don't think the angle of the drill would matter unless the lens had a base of less than 1.5 or greater than 7. Infact we were told that we could go up to 8.

    We still use primarily poly for drill jobs and we haven't had a job yet come back with those cracks that form from the hole. We've had it about a year now.
    I would agree, where it is felt necessary to have an angled hole, making the hole into a slot will normally suffice. where it doesn't I would suggest the Rx may not be suitable for rimless.

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    Rising Star ASenior's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod
    Yes, but we have drilled hundreds of jobs with never a problem. I don't think the angle of the drill would matter unless the lens had a base of less than 1.5 or greater than 7. Infact we were told that we could go up to 8.

    We still use primarily poly for drill jobs and we haven't had a job yet come back with those cracks that form from the hole. We've had it about a year now.
    You know.... We always laugh about when an Engineer comes in to be fitted for eyewear... they are the pickiest know it all's. And I surtainly don't want to sound like one, but my point was only what an engineer would point out. Though it might work for now or "get you by" which was what I was getting when I was drilling by hand, so it was expected (getting by). Why would you want an edger to "get you by" when you are paying $$$$$

    Im just saying it doesnt drill correctly.... but if it gets us by...

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    Quote Originally Posted by ASenior
    Though it might work for now or "get you by" which was what I was getting when I was drilling by hand, so it was expected (getting by). Why would you want an edger to "get you by" when you are paying $$$$$

    Im just saying it doesnt drill correctly.... but if it gets us by...
    I don't get your point. Out of a few hundred, not single job has come back because it looked bad or because of stress cracks or due to loose lenses. I don't see how this is "getting by"

    Prior to this we were paying several labs a handsome fee to do our drill jobs. Most of them came back with loose lenses, stress marks, incorrect hole sizes, etc.

    The edger is doing better work than several labs have done either by hand or with another machine. Getting by??? Hardly.

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    Anyone set up a Santenelli ICE 9000 (tracer with automatic blocking/lensmeter) to their Optronics 7E? How did it go? Was it worth it? Is it better just to use the Optronics tracer 4T? What blockers would you recommend? How much is the cost of the Santenelli ICE 9000 vs. the Optronics tracer 4T?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2Quyen
    Anyone set up a Santenelli ICE 9000 (tracer with automatic blocking/lensmeter) to their Optronics 7E? How did it go? Was it worth it? Is it better just to use the Optronics tracer 4T? What blockers would you recommend? How much is the cost of the Santenelli ICE 9000 vs. the Optronics tracer 4T?
    A 4T runs about 6k (USD). I have one and it is an excellent tracer. I am not that familiar with the Santenelli, but if I rember right from Vision Expo, it's really not an autolensometer (I could be wrong). I am told that the 7E can handle other tracers. The 4T works beautifully in tandem with the 3B blocker. We use a Tomey autolensometer to verify and mark the lenses before blocking.

    When we bought our 7E, we considered the Weco Verifier Pro which is an autolensometer/blocker, but we opted to avoid the problems of interfacing equipment from two different manufacturers. A year later, we're happy with our choices overall.

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    Optronics 7E

    Hello all!! I have recently bought a Optronics 7E edger along with 4T tracer. It really wonderful machine. Its fast and accurate but i have a problem with it. I have problem of Crazing when i try to cut thick lenses and also Hi-index lenses. This problem appears only on HMC lenses. I tried decreasing the clamping force and chuck bias but to no avail the problem still persists.
    It will be very helpul if you help me in solving this issue. I would be very grateful if you give me info abt the settings.

    Thanking you all in advance

    Suhas

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    adjust your speeds and chuck pressures. We've got a bunch of different settings for all kinds of material and even material thicknesses. This helps minimize crazing and twisting.

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    Thanks for your tips, i have tried adjusting the clamp pressure. I set it to default setting also, but no luck. I even tried with a softer setting but still found crazing problem. If possible can you give some settings which works fine. May be i can try with those.

    Thanks in advance

  19. #19
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    I'll have to look when I'm at work. But look at and adjust your feedrate and lens rotation speed. That's going to be a good part of your problem. Too fast of a feed and too rapid of a rotation causes stress on the lens.

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    Ok will look into that and come back with the results. Thanks anyways..

  21. #21
    Ophthalmic Optician OptiBoard Gold Supporter
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    I've had a 7E for 2 years now. Wedo between 3-7 jobs a day with it, along with all the other jobs we do. It is supporting 6 offices, and it's been running like a trooper. We got our money's worth out of it in 6 months.

    I just hired a guy to work a night shift, and he was trained in 2 days, and everything he's cutting is right on.
    Ophthalmic Optician, Society to Advance Opticianry

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    Consider using Weco style plastic blocks, if you are currently using 3M. You might also want to try protective felt pads. Most of all, make sure your blade is sharp. After trying all the different types, we have settled on the basic "disposable" blades which are rated for about 300 cuts. We won't cut a minus 9 poly or Hi-index, multifocal, transition, A/R coated lens in the last third of the life-cycle of the blade.

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    [quote=fjpod;244690]Consider using Weco style plastic blocks, if you are currently using 3M. /quote]

    For what reason(s)? The reason I'm asking, is because occasionally, the blocking arms comes around so fast that the pad "jumps", and if you don't catch it, well you know...
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod View Post
    Consider using Weco style plastic blocks, if you are currently using 3M. You might also want to try protective felt pads. Most of all, make sure your blade is sharp. After trying all the different types, we have settled on the basic "disposable" blades which are rated for about 300 cuts. We won't cut a minus 9 poly or Hi-index, multifocal, transition, A/R coated lens in the last third of the life-cycle of the blade.
    We found those disposable blades to be only good in cases of dire emergency. We've got the diamond blade from CDP and are in absolute love. I rarely use slip stop pads, crazing and twisting barely happen. We run CR39, poly (majority material), 1.67, other hi indexes, and AR without issue. I don't recall the amount of cuts we got off the last blade but I know we get it well into the yellow before we begin to see the beginnings of potential issues.

  25. #25
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FullCircle View Post
    We found those disposable blades to be only good in cases of dire emergency. We've got the diamond blade from CDP and are in absolute love. I rarely use slip stop pads, crazing and twisting barely happen. We run CR39, poly (majority material), 1.67, other hi indexes, and AR without issue. I don't recall the amount of cuts we got off the last blade but I know we get it well into the yellow before we begin to see the beginnings of potential issues.
    Just curious - I have a 6E, and my main complaint against it is the relatively short blade. If you have a large blank with a thick edge, or a steep back curve, it will overreach the blade and make contact with non-cutting surfaces and ruin the lens.
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