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Thread: Scuba mask

  1. #1
    Master OptiBoarder Jedi's Avatar
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    Scuba mask

    I have a client who has purchased a new scuba mask. When I initially dealt with her I recommended a mask that either has 2 seperate replaceable lenses or the had a RX insert availible. To my disappointment she purchased neither and opted for a one piece lens because it fit the best (understandable). My problem is she requires a multi-focal to read her gauges the only thing I can think of, (other than a Franklin) is to glaze a sv lens and use a stick on add on the back surface of the lens. Any suggestion is appreciated.
    "It's not impossible. I used to bull's-eye womp rats in my T-16 back home."


  2. #2
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    What is the rx?

  3. #3
    Master OptiBoarder Jedi's Avatar
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    -3.00 ou +1.00 add
    "It's not impossible. I used to bull's-eye womp rats in my T-16 back home."


  4. #4
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    Just order the lenses in glass with a plano bc with the bifocal. No problem

  5. #5
    Master OptiBoarder Jedi's Avatar
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    I thought of that but wouldn't the seg prevent the lens from being glued flush and create distorted vision around the seg and then some?
    "It's not impossible. I used to bull's-eye womp rats in my T-16 back home."


  6. #6
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    Glass segs are fused, the entire lens surface is flat! It is no different than bonding sv.

  7. #7
    What's up? drk's Avatar
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    Man, great thread!

    Fused adds use higher index glass to create an add, no?

    How do you position the optical centers in the mask? I've always wondered.

    The vertex distance is so long, too! Do you have to do calculations for higher Rx's?

    The segs will be effectively smaller at a longer vertex...do you leave it alone and go with a 28mm? Does inset get decreased?

    To what shape do you cut the inserts?

    What do you use for cement? Canada balsam?

  8. #8
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    I don't know the index that is used to make a glass seg. Perhaps someone else does.
    I usually place the oc 4-5 mm below pupil. I place post it notes on the mask to position seg to wearer's comfort. Keep them low as they aren't used much and you are looking down most of the when you are in the water.
    Yes, you need to compensate for vertex distance in higher powers.
    You can make the lense any shape you want. You can even bond the whole blank in a single plated mask.
    You can bond with regular epoxy, or Norland has a Uv curing adhesive for bonding glass.
    These peolpe aren't reading much under water so any seg will do for what they use them for, which is an occassional look at a gauge.

  9. #9
    What's up? drk's Avatar
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    Excellent CME.

    Just to be a pain-in-the-butt:

    Don't we drop OC's 1mm per 2 degrees pantoscopic tilt in order to keep the lens' optic axis incident with the "sighting intersect" of the eye? There is no panto on a scuba mask, so theoretically you wouldn't have to drop it at all, right? In a glass lens and a low, symmetrical Rx like this, it's totally a moot point, I know, but what about a higher Rx with a little aniso?

    How in the world do you measure vertex distance with a goofy mask on? With it on, you couldn't know where the cornea is from the side. With it off, you couldn't take into account the reduction in vertex from the "smashing-into-the-face effect" of the soft plastic sides with a headstrap.

    Just curious. Maybe at -3.00 and up they need contacts, anyway:cheers:

  10. #10
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    If you ever get an rx for one let me know and I'll give you the info!

  11. #11
    Master OptiBoarder Jedi's Avatar
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    Thanks CME
    It shows how often I use glass flat-tops.
    "It's not impossible. I used to bull's-eye womp rats in my T-16 back home."


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    Master OptiBoarder Jeff Trail's Avatar
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    DRK had some great points..When I lived in FL. I used to do a ton of dive masks and problems you had to watch for is vertex, remember that the further the lens the harder it is to get it to work as designed, as well as the power problems.
    The insert was the optimum choice, but for those who went with the one sheet not the goggle I used to grind (on a plano)the distant RX and mount on the inside and take a SV grind it as a saddle back and place it on the front of the lens as an "over sized" round seg.. so you mounted the plano to the tempered glass on both sides... it worked great for me.. I even went as far as taking a few finished lens and grinding them down on a plano lap and keeping a number of adds in "stock" for quick use... since most of the underwater stuff was intermediate length I only kept +2 through +2.75 .. just another option to consider:cheers:

    Jeff "still grinding away"Trail

  13. #13
    Master OptiBoarder Jedi's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff, good to see you posting here. I think I speak for many of us, that Optiboard just isn't the same without you around here. :cheers:
    "It's not impossible. I used to bull's-eye womp rats in my T-16 back home."


  14. #14
    Master OptiBoarder ikon44's Avatar
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    its a low add , howabout putting -2.75 in dominant eye and -2.25 in non dominant, corrected for vertex.
    To find out what,s happening in the UK optical market:
    http://theOptom.com

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    Master OptiBoarder mullo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi
    Thanks Jeff, good to see you posting here. I think I speak for many of us, that Optiboard just isn't the same without you around here. :cheers:
    I'll second that!!

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