TIPS ON DISPENSING

[chip anderson]

Harry: Just another reason I'm glad we don't have Winter.

[keagles2]

A lot of patients and having someonehold securely and gently pull while yu use the tool to get under the wire. i bought a special tool that helps with removing the lenses.

[DragonLensmanWV]

Dragonman:

Obviously you are not a fisherman. The hilco nylon is fishing line. Fishing line comes in many, many colors, flouresent and non-flouresent, at least a dozen compositions and "stretchability" , non-stretchablility. Available in nylon, dacron, polystyrene, diameters, strengths, etc. Some frames have holes too small and some too large for 20# test.
You can get a lot of it for a lot less than hilco.

Chip

I guess I was using old data, referring to regular old 20# Stren. Obviously there is newer products like Spiderwire that have no stretch. And not all are fluorescent anymore.
But I have been fishing for over 50 years, but I still use my old equipment that I've had since my teens, except for some newer lures. My old Vivifs have deteriorated to uselessness.But my 50-year old DareDevil still catches fish!

[Chris Ryser]

Dragonman:

Obviously you are not a fisherman. The hilco nylon is fishing line. .................................You can get a lot of it for a lot less than hilco.
Chip

Going back into the late 1950's and into the 1960's when the Essilor Nylor frames were the craze all over, we used just plain blue fishing line for the glass lenses and so diud Essilor.

We also cut our not selling frames, plastic and metals, drilled the holeas and made nylor mounts with them, that let us change the shape as long as it fitted the top and we had suddenly new frames and looks.

[EyeFitWell]

Chris-
Would that mean that those lenses had a bevel on top and a groove in the bottom? How do you pull that off?

[For-Life]

Chris-
Would that mean that those lenses had a bevel on top and a groove in the bottom? How do you pull that off?

Either put a bevel all around the lens and then flatten the one area, or put not bevel on the lens and put your own bevel where needed.

[Dave Nelson]

But wouldn't that involve (gasp) some hand edging? Is it possible to do some work by hand these days? ;)

[For-Life]

lol, well Chris did mention the 50s and 60s ;)

[EyeFitWell]

But wouldn't that involve (gasp) some hand edging? Is it possible to do some work by hand these days? ;)

My trainer made me do all kinds of things by hand. It really is a lost art!

[Specs]

After lots of trial, the monofilament that I like the best and fits most of the frames is Berkley's Trilene "Big Game" fishing line 30 lb. The size seems to work well without slippage, and the "big game" line is abrasion resistant.

[Chris Ryser]

Chris-
Would that mean that those lenses had a bevel on top and a groove in the bottom? How do you pull that off?

This is actually very easy.......................these frames have a V-bevel right to the place where you cut of the rim. Always be carefull to let the frame go around the corner on the temporal side and the rim below the soldering point of the pad arms.

Cut the lenses on you automatic beveledger in a flat (rimless) bevel mode and make the lens 1 to 1-1/2mm larger. You can also make a former that gives you a deeper shape, good for PAL's, the only limit is the top part of the lens that has to fit into the rim.

You now have a full rimless bevel on the lens. You now go on the hand edger and make the V-bevel for the area of the frame rim. Make sure that you make a safety bavel when finished. The you groove only the bottonm part right a few mm into the V bevel.

Following, you fit the right length of the Nylon thread. Put one end on the temporal side into the two holes and cut off. Then insert thread into first hole only and pull tight through the first hole. This will mark the thread. Cut the thread at the mark insert it into 2nd hole 2-3mm inside frame bevel and you have the right lenght for the right tension.

Insert lens and pull nyoln thread around it and you have conerted a regular frame into a Nylon mount.

What a way of getting rid of some frames that have been sitting around for toolong.

[EyeFitWell]

Wow, Chris! I'll have to practice on a few junkers and see if I can do it!

[Chris Ryser]

Wow, Chris! I'll have to practice on a few junkers and see if I can do it

Once you get tha hang of it...........it will be fairly easy. Just think you modify an non sellable ecpensive brand name frame into a modern looking rimless nylor mount.

If you have any problems just ask me, I will hekp along. with a bit of practice you can become a master at it in no time.

[rgin]

This type of discussion is great.If only this and computors had existed about 40 years ago. I think that I can add some ideas that would be helpful at a later date.Thank you all for the ideas.:cheers:

[Chris Ryser]

This type of discussion is great.If only this and computors had existed about 40 years ago. I think that I can add some ideas that would be helpful at a later date.

Why a later date ? If you were around 40 years ago you must have grey hair by now. The older we get the less time we have left to put ideas down and the time runs tripple speed.

[rdcoach5]

I'm still trying to find a solution to the ball bearing temple...I find that I can line it up, I can even get the safety pin in through the bottom, but then when I try to put the screw in, the safety pin comes out before I can get enough of the screw in. There is no way I can hold the temple to the front so it is lined up with one hand and put the screw in with the other.

I believe that it was here that I read to put a piece of filament through the hinge when lined up, tie it tightly so it holds it in place, insert screw, cut off excess....unfortunately I couldn't get the filament to tie tight enough. It would hold it together, but not tight enough to keep it lined up.

As far as other equipment that I could use, we don't have any vices, ect. I got an email from Hilco about something that they are making for the purpose, but it's not available yet... So I'm still working on it. Even though I haven't found something that works for me yet, I thank you all for your advice.

Attach a paper clip to something solid, leaving a U shape at the free end.Put the temple in the U so that the spring can be extended. Place a toothpick in the opening of the spring to keep it extended. Now the barrels should be aligned for easy screw insertion

[chip anderson]

Ask your lux rep for a temple vise. Keep temple and ball compressed during screw insertion.

[Agnitio]

I'm sure most of you know this but i recently used it and thought i would share.

I had a darling of a patient. A 35 year old mentally handicaped woman that wore progressives.

Where her temples sat on her ears was where the temple tip and metal met which was rubbing, proving to be very uncomfortable and also leaving a red mark.

I wasn't able to remove the temple tips and shorten the temples due to the frames design so proceeded to bow out the temples; in escence shortening them. This allowed me to readjust the tips so that the rested correctly on her ears with no metal touching the skin.

The most enjoyable part of this exercise was after every adjustment it was the same reply:

"Thats better, thats great" all with a beaming smile.

I haven't heard back so I guess all worked out but I can't wait to work with her again. That smile from her kept me smiling for a week

[rdcoach5]

I'm sure most of you know this but i recently used it and thought i would share.

I had a darling of a patient. A 35 year old mentally handicaped woman that wore progressives.

Where her temples sat on her ears was where the temple tip and metal met which was rubbing, proving to be very uncomfortable and also leaving a red mark.

I wasn't able to remove the temple tips and shorten the temples due to the frames design so proceeded to bow out the temples; in escence shortening them. This allowed me to readjust the tips so that the rested correctly on her ears with no metal touching the skin.

The most enjoyable part of this exercise was after every adjustment it was the same reply:

"Thats better, thats great" all with a beaming smile.

I haven't heard back so I guess all worked out but I can't wait to work with her again. That smile from her kept me smiling for a week

I think the best part of being an Optician is what you describe-helping our patients the best that we can.I love working in a practice that's motto is that the customer/patient is always right.It makes my job easy compared to previous jobs that would not back up a customer's complaint. Our local lab came out with an extended warranty for $5 a job that offers 2 remakes for any reason for 2 years. We thought it was such a good idea , we had them apply it to every job we ordered. We have been extremely happy with this arrangement because it fits in with our Dr.'s philosophy of pleasing our customers foremost.
Bob Taylor

[harry a saake]

Now that these lense are working better then ever, it should be imperative that you let your patients know that in cold weather these lenses will not turn back to clear in 40 seconds, as they will in hot weather, remember they are uv and temp sensitive

[MarySue]

Harry - Are you saying that these work better in warmer weather? I thought it was cooler weather meant faster changing. Do the new Transitions V provide a different process entirely?

Thanks for your help clarifying this - I'm stumped.:drop:

[harry a saake]

mary all transitions are temp sensitive, so they will get darker in cold weather and stay that way longer when you come inside, in warmer weather they get slightly lighter and will change more rapidly from in side to out

[MarySue]

Thank you Harry - I can always count on your posts to help out. I know about the sensitivity - however, I have always had the mis-information, that in heat - transitions will not change as quickly or go as dark --- or as light, as they will in cooler temperatures.

Thanks again for clarifying this!
Mary Sue

[Chris Ryser]

Actually the same principle applied for the glass photogray lenses.

[cathy]

Patient comes in with an older metal frame that your biggest screw will not stay tight. With the screw in side the barrel take your snipes and gently squeeze the threaded barrel, which will make it a little bit oval, and now the screw will self tap it self. Be careful not to squeeze to hard.

How about a nut and bolt with plastic sleeve liner at the head of the bolt. Cut the excess bolt off after tightening the nut and gently file with a fine file the bolt head to mushroom over the nut. Works for me when dealing with frames I never carried and screws I don't don't stock or ran out of.