MINUS lenses
:D If your going to buy a stock of minus lenses,buying the bigger blanks may be handier as they will fit almost any size frame you might use. Keep in mind that with a minus lens, no matter what the size of the blank, the edge and ct will be the same for any given rx. EX: a minus 5.00 cut from a blank 55mm,65mm or 80mm will have the same edge thickness from either lens as long as the ct,s are the same.
TEMPLE TIPS :D When putting on temple tips, the first thing you should do is clean off the end of the temple, after you remove the old temple cover. When putting on a new one quite often they will be a little hard to go on. Try coating the end of the temple tip with a little vaseline, being careful not to use too much, as you dont need much:cheers:
An easy way to lenghten metal temples with temple tips is to cut off the amount you want to lenghten off of an old temple (I always keep out junk around) Remove the tip and put the cut off piece into the tip and put the tip back on the temple.
Tom
I've noticed that may people don't check the frame true by turning the frame upside down. That is the correct way to check for a four point touch.
Tom
Tom:
We should remind the younger folks that, When you have a four point touch, you have a frame that fits a table. I am sure that more than 50% of people have un-even ears. I have even found a very rare few that have uneven temple (ear to chassis) lengths.
Chip
:idea: I think we should remind all of those who are new that a 4 point stance with a frame means nothing until you have the frame even across the front. I think i covered this in a previous post. If the frame front is tilted in or out, on one side compared to the other. the temples will look like they are unaligned. Often i have seen frame temples bent like crazy so they would sit even in a 4 point stance, when the whole problem was the frame front was out of line. This is even more pronounced in todays single bar unisex frames.
..........As far as that old chestnut about one ear being higher then the other, while it is true scientifically, the amount is usually useless as it is in thousandths of an inch or less. The amount of people you will see that really have one ear higher then the other, which in most cases is a genetic defect, you might count on two hands in your life. In most all cases its a poor frame fit, the front out of line, a plastic frame with a bridge that does not saddle the septum area correctly, causing it to tilt, or misaligned nose pads.
ear to chassis
:D Chip, to expound on what you mentioned about one ear further back then the other. Again you will sometimes see this occur, but more often then not it is usually the frame sitting on the persons face, where one side is in more then the other.
.......... When you have one side in more then the other, the side that is in more, makes the temple appears to be longer. This happens quite often when opticians are doing face wrap. Its a vey easy trap to fall into.
..........What i always do when i see this occur is have the patient tilt there head down towards me, and move the frame back and forth gently and see if it repositions it self, before i assume that one ear is further back. In most cases its just the frame has been put on sitting on a little angle.
I agree with Harry
Tom
How many opticians know that the temple should not touch or be hooked on the back of the ear? It's supposed to hug the head but not press opressively on the mastoid. I think not many concidering how many try to "tighten" a frame by bending the temple down. How many people do you see in church or at the shoping center with the temple turned so far down that they must wear their glasses with the bend more than an inch above the ear (presumably to avoid the pain of pressing on the back of the ear)? How many opticians "custom lenght" temples when technicaly possible? When was the last time someone told us in a "fitting siminar" whether nose pads should be verticle, or tilted bottom forward or bottom backward?
I haven't heard any one since Ralph Drew discuss nose shapes and compatable bridges. He was also the last I heard discuss ear shapes. Where are we in opticianry, only interested in the mechanics of our trade if they are a new way to make a profit?
New lenses designs and frame materials are great, but what happened to basic dispensing skills?
Chip
It still amazes me when ever I see someone with their temple bent at almost 90 degrees behind the ear. Where did the person who did the adjustment learn this? I know, I know... it shouldn't be a surprise.
And don't get me started on nose pads...
:D Chip, i agree and i hope i am creating some of that here. I do wish at times that more people with knowledge of these skills would post them. I don,t posses to be an expert, but rather to pass down what i have learned over the years.
......... I,m going to bring up another scenario that you will run across almosty everyday. Patient walks in and complains of the temples hurting. You look behind the ear and you see red marks on top of the ear, but not in the fold. This is caused by a temple that is not snug against the mastoid, and as it sits out it moves back and forth across the ear creating the sore spot.
..........You will also see this happen to men with temples that are perfect but as the hair grows more and more , the hair forces the temple outward. They either have to get the temple under the hair or get a haircut.
Tips for fitting folks with very narrow and shallow bridges:
13 mm symmetrical nosepads or swap 15 mm asymmetrical nosepads left for right and flip upside down, narrow end pointing up. If you flip the later, then the wide part will not push in on the soft tissue so much.
pano and retro
:idea: Quite often when fitting frames you will notice that many of the frames the patient puts on tend to tilt in or out a lot. There is a definite relationship, i believe for this which is the height of the ears to where the nose is. If the ears are higher, or much higher you will see more pano tilt, conversely if the ears are too low you will see more retro tilt.
..........When fitting patients , make sure you look at them from the side to see what the angle is, because after this you will now have to determine, whether or not you can take this frame and tilt it enough, not only to make it look good cosmetically, but also where it will be optically correct.
.........Certain frames like rimless can be very hard to angle at all. Of course if you are real handy you can remove the end pieces and reweld them on, to the angle you need, but this is not for the novice to try.
Back to adjusting temple ends, remember to check the frame still fits in the case afterwards. Sometimes you will need a larger or differently shaped case. Failure to supply one will result in the patient forcing them into the old case and ruining all your hard work.
ph
Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me.
temple tips
:bbg: Sometimes when you have a hard time getting a temple cover on, you can try one of these two ways or both. One is to put just a slight amount of soap on the temple end. The other is to make a very small hole in the end of the temple tip. I believe this will help get out some of the air pressure. Of course the best way is to have a stock of all the various diameters that temple covers come in.
When using heat shrink tubing to cover cable temple ends or to cover metal temples for someone who has a reaction to nickel, I always have a hard time getting the ends to lie flat and smooth. Is there a trick to finishing them off nicely?
Jo: Slice them off with a single edge razor blade and slide them up 1 mm above the end of temple before heat shrinking.
:cheers:
Chip
:idea: To save the hassle of trying to get off all the PAL markings, once the lens is edged and in the frame,do this. After you have blocked the lens for edging, take the lens and wipe off the outermost markings. This way when the lens is edged to final size, all you will have left is the cross. Now you wont have to try and get the markings off that are typically right next to the edge of the frame. Also you wont get any acetone on the edges and take a chance of cracking it.
I got a "hot" tip for you to remove all scratches from your old plastic frame:
1. Open your window.
2. prepare a metal cooking pot (with lid) allows to put in a whole plastic frame with temples open. One foot long of small gauge metal wire.
3. Drill two small holes on the lid and insert metal wire through both holes. Both wire tips must face inside of cooking pot.
4. Remove demo lens/Rx lens, nose pad and screws from plastic frame. Ultrasonic clean the whole frame.
5. Insert both metal wire tips to both hinges (between frame front and temples). Be sure to bend and form metal wire which won't contact any plastic portion. Frame front must face up and both temples must be opened and face down.
6. Fill 16 oz. of acetone in cooking pot and boil with water only for a minutes.
7. Now remove the cooking pot with hot acetone inside to a ventlized area and close the lid with plastic frame hang inside of cooking pot. Make sure plastic frame is not in contacted with acetone !
8. Remain the plastic frame inside of cooking pot for a minutes.(Do not bake plastic frame too long, it might be melt away).
9. Open the lid and remove frame from cooking pot a minutes later. Hang your platic frame to opened air to dry for another 15 minutes. (Do not touch the frame to avoid forever fingerprints).
10. Here you got a brand new plastic frame.
Last edited by JERRY HUANG; 10-27-2001 at 08:57 PM.
Jerry:
Perhaps you've been lucky, but acetone should be heated in a water bath, ie a container of boiling water, then a second container, with acetone in it...
Second, arn't there easier ways to do this?? perhaps a simpler method would be to:
1. ultrasonic clean
2. using grade 400 or higher sandpaper smooth back scratches
3. polish the frame with the edge polisher
4. if no polishing wheel is available to you, you can use a good nail hardner, with an acetate base. The good ones will brush on thin, and not appear as a lump on the frame.
this also preserves the plasticisers in the plastics of frames, and can be used on most types of frames, with step 4 not working too well on flex frames. acetate is the only product that should recieve acetone treatments!!, other plastics, such as optyl shouldn't have these treatments should they?
James
Last edited by Jimbob; 10-28-2001 at 06:23 AM.
James, you are 100 % correct ! Acetone works the best for acetate material not necessarily everything else. In addition......................
Do not dry heat acetone directly, it is very dangerous !
(Sorry, my camera does not have enough space to store in another container, but I did illustrate "hot water" outside of acetone container). Please see previous photo attachment.
I still prefer to process with "acetone fume bath" instead of sand paper/wheel polishing because the polishing mark is always existed no matter how careful I try. Acetone fume bath will clean up the entire ACETATE frame and brings luster.
Although acetone is very hazardous but it still plays an important roll on our ACETATE plastic frames. Many manufactures still use acetone to fuse nose piece and color lamination.
Last edited by JERRY HUANG; 10-29-2001 at 09:46 PM.
The process Jerry is discribing is called a vapor dip and is used often in the manufacturing world but It can be extreamly dangerous as actetone vapors are very explosive. I would sugest sticking with hand polishing as a safer means of removing scratches.
Tom
Hope you don't smoke with the acetone vapor.
Chip
fogging
:D Some of you will undoubley run into that situation in an industrial environment, where a worker is going in and out of a cold freezer and quite naturally the glasses fog up. What i do is sell them two pair and tell them to keep one in the cold storage, and the other one outside.
Some times ago I had few packets of Point Tipped Screws. You have to press those gently till Pointed end comes out from the threaded side.. then cut it with a cutter and drive the screw as usual!! It saves hell lot of all the procedure you have described..Originally posted by PAkev
Attaching temples with spring hinges was one of my first biggest challenges as an optician. My mentor taught me two little tricks which usually got this job done.
1 - Take a push Pin (the colored ones with a little plastic knob work best) and insert it through the bottom threaded hole while applying pressure on the hinge plate. Then just align the holes while inserting the temple screw from the top as you slowly remove the push pin.
2 - Take a small screw and place it on the bench with the threaded side up. With the hinge pisitioned downward pull tension on the hinge plate with needle nose pliers while holding the long side of the temple. The hinge plate will open up to form a small gap. Place this gap over the screw sticking up and then carefully release the hinge plate with the pliers. At this point the screw will be wedged in the gap with an extended hinge plate. This extra distance will afford you enough space to put the appropriate screw in and attach the temple to the frame.
Kevin
Presently I haven't seen those, Would anybody like to try if I could procure those again?
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