TIPS ON DISPENSING

[harry a saake]

When tightening hinge screws, it is often tempting to see just how tight you can get the screw. Often this results in a temple that is now so hard to close, that it will sometimes result in the patient breaking off the end piece, while trying to open or close the temple. I suggest to tighten the screw all the way, and if it seems that tight, back off a half turn. While you are at it, it is never a bad idea to loosen the screw all the way, and squirt some alcohol into the hinge, cleans it out, and results in the hinge working better.

Well making chicken salad out of chicken chicken #@%^&* is part of the job description, now isn't it? The latex fix is only good for someone who is just trying to get by until their new glasses come in. It only works for a few months. Less in the summer.

[optical24/7]

Do not hold a frame in your hand while tightening or loosing a frame screw, then slip and embed a reversible screwdriver blade into your hand/finger, then freaking, pull the handle only to leave the reversible blade in your hand, then yell to me "George! I put a screwdriver through my hand!!", and hold it out to show me and make me pull it out for you, the whole time telling me, " You told me to never, never do that, and I did it George, oh I'm so sorry...". ( It ain't my hand stuck...) Then I have to take you to the emergency clinic to get a tetanus shot....

Work backs up....... DO NOT hold a frame in your hand while tightening or loosening a frame screw.


On a related note; I've seen seasoned opticians do the above (the stabbing of themselves, not the rescue of pulling a blade out of someone..) At times, I think we (opticians) are like dogs you gotta put a shock collar on..Some of us, knowing the above consequences, do it, only to be reminded that it hurts to do that..

[chip anderson]

Oil might be a bit more useful on the hinge than alcohol. Thin light weight machine oil.
Chip

I might also mention that if you don't want to repeat putting the hinge screw in again at a later date, peening is recommended.

[harry a saake]

One of the main reasons for so much slippage and stabbing of the hands, is we tend to use the wrong size blade in our haste to tighten or loosen the screw. Always use the largest blade that will fit into the screw head slot. Also as i have stated once in another post, round off the edges of the screwdriver blade on a handstone, this will result in less cutting of your hand if you do slip.

Point two, go out to a hobby store and buy a bunch of screwdrivers with different size blades, every screwdriver does not have to be a hilco reversible, there are plenty if other better screwdrivers.

point three, sometimes when you know you are going to have a difficult time with a screw, and your right handed, put a rag around your left hand, again if there is slippage you will probably not get cut.



freaking, pull the handle only to leave the reversible blade in your hand, then yell to me "George! I put a screwdriver through my hand!!", and hold it out to show me and make me pull it out for you, the whole time telling me, " You told me to never, never do that, and I did it George, oh I'm so sorry...". ( It ain't my hand stuck...) Then I have to take you to the emergency clinic to get a tetanus shot....

Work backs up....... DO NOT hold a frame in your hand while tightening or loosening a frame screw.


On a related note; I've seen seasoned opticians do the above (the stabbing of themselves, not the rescue of pulling a blade out of someone..) At times, I think we (opticians) are like dogs you gotta put a shock collar on..Some of us, knowing the above consequences, do it, only to be reminded that it hurts to do that..[/QUOTE]

[coffee joe]

round off the edges of the screwdriver blade on a handstone,

i wouldn't use a hand stone. it isn't made to cut metal and the diamond bonding can break loose to expose the bare metal wheal. also, i find i get less slippage with a nice square end on the blade, because the rounded corners of an old blade tend to ride up over the top of the slot.

[Chris Ryser]

The use of above mentioned means to compensate for shrinking of materials over a longer time span is helpful.

However neither metal nor plastics do shrink or expand in a 6 month period, and those would be the result of inadequate lab work of whoever did the job.

Another way of tighten lenses in plastic frames is to heat them up as far as it can take it as then cool them fast under very cold water.

[coffee joe]

a way to tighten the eye-wire of a metal frame is to file down the end of the eye-wire to make the barrel shorter. not too much though - the barrel still needs to be strong enough not to split.

[Robert_S]

a way to tighten the eye-wire of a metal frame is to file down the end of the eye-wire to make the barrel shorter. not too much though - the barrel still needs to be strong enough not to split.

I've done this successfully a few times; it seems a good technique.

But I've also been told it's very bad practise. What does everyone think?

[chip anderson]

Robert, you can even go a bit further and de-solder the bottom eyewire joint and move in further down the wire and trim. Don't recommend it but it can be done.

Chp

[coffee joe]

But I've also been told it's very bad practise. What does everyone think?

well, one down side that comes to mind off the top of my head is that it makes the eye-wires different sizes, so if they ever get new lenses in them it could cause a head ache for the lab doing it. say, for example, that you did it to the right eye, and the lab doing the new lenses only traces the right eye-wire. when they cut the left lens to match the right, it's going to be too small. now their options are to make the left eye-wire match or cut a new lens. it is a band-aid of course, and it's always best not to need a band-aid. but when you really need a fix i think it's good to have as many tools in your toolbox as you can.

[pseudonym]

a way to tighten the eye-wire of a metal frame is to file down the end of the eye-wire to make the barrel shorter. not too much though - the barrel still needs to be strong enough not to split.

It works better with an older frame- say, from the 80s or older. I'd hate to rob any "new" frame of its preciously soft metal.

[krousselo]

I am looking for a Huitante+3 color 313 frame for a family member. Don't want to open an account with them and don't want to pay retail. Can anyone who carries this line help me get a frame?? Why doesn't family ever want Marchon???

[harry a saake]

It works better with an older frame- say, from the 80s or older. I'd hate to rob any "new" frame of its preciously soft metal.

Another way you can make up for a little extra space is to take the eyewire, and with your thumbs basically, keep curving the eyewire, then when you tighten it down, it will straighten out slightly, but it will take out the extra space. This really works well on + lenses, a little harder to do with - lenses, depending on the base curve. In a nutshell your overcurving the eyewire just enough to take out the extra space.

[Chris Ryser]

Here is the link to the "Vision Ease", OptiBoard's main sponsors mounting instructions for Polycarbonate lenses, into frames with drillholes.

see at: ----------------------> http://www.vision-ease.com/Portals/V...lessMounts.pdf

[DHalek]

I'm new to this forum, and finally finished reading the thread. Thanks for the tips!

I'm actually a lab tech, but I end up doing a lot of optician-ing by default, so I see things from a slightly different angle than most, perhaps.

A couple things I noticed - one was the tip about using the larger flat-head side of a reversible screwdriver and filing it down to a 45 degree angle. This doesn't help with keeping the screwdriver in the slot, in my experience, but it does help with a lot of the screws that are recessed into the barrels, that you can't quite get with the full size side, and tend to strip (or break the screwdriver tip) with the smaller.

Also, something I've found is that the regular screwdriver handles (that a majority of opticians seem to use) are pretty terrible. They are too skinny, and the grip ends way too far from the end. You get a lot more control and a lot more torque if you use a screwdriver where the grip is fatter and ends a lot closer to the screw. This results in fewer tetanus shots, scratched lenses, scratched frames, stripped screws, and time spent cleaning up blood.

Once again, that comes from a lab tech perspective, where I'm getting rather intimate with frames all day long and trying not to add to the scar tissue collection I got going on my left hand.

For whoever mentioned sliding a business card behind nosepads while changing them, what I've found works better is to use a demo-lens. You can apply a bit of pressure safely that way to help with some of the more stubborn screws, as well as protecting the lens.

Regarding shaving barrels in order to 'shrink' a metal frame, you really want to be careful and not do it on a new pair of glasses. It's far better to take the breakage and redo a lens, than have the eyewire snap open at the barrel, or end up edging a left lens all sorts of small as well, because someone down the line traces the right eye only, for a remake, or for whatever reason.

There are other options - lens liner, monofilament in the eyewire, hand-curving the eyewire (you can kind of pinch it in in a few places, and effectively shrink the frame slightly that way), and apparently this latex that I just read about on here and am looking forward to trying. It's a lot better to play things straight on a new pair of glasses than compromising it because you want to avoid a breakage, the work of redoing a lens, or are just simply feeling lazy.

I don't know about polishing a lens to remove scratches, I've simply not really seen any effective way of doing that - however, a combination of using a china marker and then re-coating/curing a lens sometimes does work, and is often well worth the attempt. It's also another way of making a lens bigger ;) However, in my experience, using leap pads in the curing oven is very risky at best - you'll find that the lens will drop off a pretty high percent of the time.

There are little disks - suction cups, with a hole in the center - that you can use however, for even really small edged lenses. It's takes some practice (and luck) and patience coating and recoating, trying to get the smallest lenses off the coater and into the curer successfully, but it can be well worth not running the risk of having the lens fall off in the curer and destroying a $400 (or whatever) bulb and the lens itself.

Keep in mind that if you do this with the front side on a poly lens, or on a plastic lens, you have to do it to the other, since it will be readily apparent to the patient that something is different between the two, the first time they go to clean them. The one with the bonus coat will be a lot more slick. Also, plastic won't take tint nearly as well after getting being coated.

This works great and can remove some pretty nasty scratches, but it's not something that will work 100% of the time. Maybe 75-80% or so.

Anyways, this turned out a lot more long-winded than I intended, hopefully it's of some help, once again thanks for all the tips, even if a lot of the stuff referenced was obsolete before I was born ;)

[uncut]

I'm new to this forum, and finally finished reading the thread. Thanks for the tips!

I'm actually a lab tech, but I end up doing a lot of optician-ing by default, so I see things from a slightly different angle than most, perhaps.

A couple things I noticed - one was the tip about using the larger flat-head side of a reversible screwdriver and filing it down to a 45 degree angle. This doesn't help with keeping the screwdriver in the slot, in my experience, but it does help with a lot of the screws that are recessed into the barrels, that you can't quite get with the full size side, and tend to strip (or break the screwdriver tip) with the smaller.

Also, something I've found is that the regular screwdriver handles (that a majority of opticians seem to use) are pretty terrible. They are too skinny, and the grip ends way too far from the end. You get a lot more control and a lot more torque if you use a screwdriver where the grip is fatter and ends a lot closer to the screw. This results in fewer tetanus shots, scratched lenses, scratched frames, stripped screws, and time spent cleaning up blood.

Once again, that comes from a lab tech perspective, where I'm getting rather intimate with frames all day long and trying not to add to the scar tissue collection I got going on my left hand.

For whoever mentioned sliding a business card behind nosepads while changing them, what I've found works better is to use a demo-lens. You can apply a bit of pressure safely that way to help with some of the more stubborn screws, as well as protecting the lens.

Regarding shaving barrels in order to 'shrink' a metal frame, you really want to be careful and not do it on a new pair of glasses. It's far better to take the breakage and redo a lens, than have the eyewire snap open at the barrel, or end up edging a left lens all sorts of small as well, because someone down the line traces the right eye only, for a remake, or for whatever reason.

There are other options - lens liner, monofilament in the eyewire, hand-curving the eyewire (you can kind of pinch it in in a few places, and effectively shrink the frame slightly that way), and apparently this latex that I just read about on here and am looking forward to trying. It's a lot better to play things straight on a new pair of glasses than compromising it because you want to avoid a breakage, the work of redoing a lens, or are just simply feeling lazy.

I don't know about polishing a lens to remove scratches, I've simply not really seen any effective way of doing that - however, a combination of using a china marker and then re-coating/curing a lens sometimes does work, and is often well worth the attempt. It's also another way of making a lens bigger ;) However, in my experience, using leap pads in the curing oven is very risky at best - you'll find that the lens will drop off a pretty high percent of the time.

There are little disks - suction cups, with a hole in the center - that you can use however, for even really small edged lenses. It's takes some practice (and luck) and patience coating and recoating, trying to get the smallest lenses off the coater and into the curer successfully, but it can be well worth not running the risk of having the lens fall off in the curer and destroying a $400 (or whatever) bulb and the lens itself.

Keep in mind that if you do this with the front side on a poly lens, or on a plastic lens, you have to do it to the other, since it will be readily apparent to the patient that something is different between the two, the first time they go to clean them. The one with the bonus coat will be a lot more slick. Also, plastic won't take tint nearly as well after getting being coated.

This works great and can remove some pretty nasty scratches, but it's not something that will work 100% of the time. Maybe 75-80% or so.

Anyways, this turned out a lot more long-winded than I intended, hopefully it's of some help, once again thanks for all the tips, even if a lot of the stuff referenced was obsolete before I was born ;)

Nice First Post.................Welcome to Optiboard!

[Psychobablr7]

+1!

[TNFrazier]

Hello Jo,

Regarding your question my method for removing a lens from a extra snugged grooved rimless mount frame consists of 1 key tool and 2 movements. As you know some rimless companies like to provide you with those thick plastic like ribbons (I never use those. I always throw it away). My weapon of choice is the nylon ribbon. First, I would insert the nylon ribbon temporally. Due to the snug fit, I would pull the lens away from the temple so that I am able to get the ribbon inserted. Once it is in I would move the ribbon in a back and forth motion in addition to pulling on the nylon downward until I am allowed to get the ribbon over the groove. This process generally takes me less btw. 8-10 seconds (not that I am actually counting) but it is quite quick.

[harry a saake]

As we all have noticed by now, we are seeing somewhat of a resurgence in retro 50-60,s style frames. For the newer ones this is going to call for a little more learning on how to handle some of these styles. In particular i want to cover the KEYHOLE bridge. This is not a bridge that was just made for the heck of it, the bridge has a purpose.
The main purpose of a keyhole bridge is to make a little small nose look somewhat larger. So with that in mind one must be careful who you put these on or you can create unwittingly a bad looking fit.

Also what is imperative when fitting these bridges, is to make sure that the bridge actually fits snug on the nose, on both sides as much as possible, and also make sure that the temples are long enough to be bent sufficiently behinds the ears, so the frame cannot slide down very much.

Keyhole bridges that slide down are much more annoying then saddle bridges as the two points at the very beginning of the keyhole will dig into the nose and create very annoying red marks, and this is why they must be fit more precise.

[manoj_verma]

Hinge Screw is Broken in Half in CK Metel Frame .......Any TIP to get it off will be appreciated !


Best Regards !

[Chris Ryser]

Hinge Screw is Broken in Half in CK Metel Frame .......Any TIP to get it off will be appreciated !


Best Regards !

Drill it out at the bottom barrel and cut a new thread or use a self tapping screw.

[NUECoptical]

First, I would insert the nylon ribbon temporally. Due to the snug fit, I would pull the lens away from the temple so that I am able to get the ribbon inserted. Once it is in I would move the ribbon in a back and forth motion in addition to pulling on the nylon downward until I am allowed to get the ribbon over the groove. This process generally takes me less btw. 8-10 seconds (not that I am actually counting) but it is quite quick.

Excellent tip! While doing this, sometimes the thread has been so tight that I've had to get someone else to thread the nylon ribbon through while I hold the frame open to make enough space for it to fit!

[Chris Ryser]

Excellent tip! While doing this, sometimes the thread has been so tight that I've had to get someone else to thread the nylon ribbon through while I hold the frame open to make enough space for it to fit!

There is always a space on both sides where the thread is attached slip in a corner of the ribbon and pull it through with a pointed pair of pliers.

[dispenser]

Hi,

Normally when I convert a standard temple end to a cable temple I obtain cable extensions that make a tight fit with the temple wire. If the cable extension is a bit loose, I used two pliers to make a slight wavy line (like a ratchet) out of the end of the temple wire so that it securely fits into the hole of the cable extension. What method(s) are suggested when the fit is a bit looser where the above method won't work? I don't think heat will shrink the housing too much, and I am reluctant to use super glue as the glue may "leach out" onto the wearer if the temple gets wet. Is there perhaps some padding or other elegant method that someone could suggest? The cable ends that I have are similar to those in the following picture http://www.nosepads.com/Cable-Temple...-Silicone.html except that the collar portion that slips over the temple wire is longer. Any ideas appreciated.

[Chris Ryser]

In the old days it used to be acetone, the standard optical solvent which still works on some materials, but on most it will not.

Actually on a perfect job, you don't chemically bond the broken material. You actually have to soften up and dissolve the broken surfaces and them stick them
back together and hold them solid together for a period of at least 12 hours. The material has bonded itself. There will be a light bulge around the joined area which has to be filed down and polished to become and invisible repair job.

With special solvents ( example=acidic acid) that have only one simples function, to dissolve the eye glass frame materials. By dissolving the broken surface for 1/2 mm and then joining the 2 surfaces you will fuse back the material to a invisible just perfect condition.
Pour some of the liquid into the bottle cap. Remove the lens from the frame and give the bevel one turn on your hand edger to reduce the size of the lens by about 1/2mm. After finishing pour the liquid back into the bottle for re-use.
Now dip the 2 broken surfaces into the liquid for not more than one to 2 seconds and remove. Repeat this a few times until you see the surfaces start to soften slightly. Then insert the lens into frame and close the break. When pressing the break together you will see a bulge appear around the fused area. Secure with some elastic rubber band crossing to each side and holding the fused spot together. Let dry overnight. Next morning you file, sandpaper and polish the fused area, and it will become a totally invisible fused job, done without any glue, just by using its own material.

check at ------------------------> http://optochemicals.com/frame_welder.htm