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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavyChief
    I heard "Marks Away" isn't made anymore, this true?
    http://optochemicals.com/products/info_markaway.htm

    right there

    I used to be a non-believer of those type of products (thinking that they were as good as like methal hydrate.

    I was wrong. This stuff, imo, is better than acetone.

  2. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavyChief
    I heard "Marks Away" isn't made anymore, this true?
    I use Essiclean from Essilor, and there is another product similar from Hilco

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    Redhot Jumper Restringing Nylon

    There is a simple and easy way to re-string a nylon frame.
    1. Start on the nasal side and insert your nylon.
    2. String the nylon through the bottom hole on the temple side
    3. Put your lens in place and tighten the nylon (this is without threading it through the top)
    4. Fold the nylon over once tight and put a tiny dot with a felt tipped pen on the bend
    5. Remove the lens and thread your nylon through the top so that the felt mark comes just through on the other side.
    6. Trim
    7. Insert lens
    8. Perfect fit every time!
    :cheers:

  4. #579
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    use pencil grips on screw drivers, you will notice less stabbings

  5. #580
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    Big Smile Bad rumor...............................

    Quote Originally Posted by NavyChief
    I heard "Marks Away" isn't made anymore, this true?
    Must have been a competitior spreading a rumor as they periodically do.

    Markaway is one of our bread and butter items used just around the whole globe. It removes all the markings fast and easy and does not even cost half the price competitiors sell similar products. Find it at http://optochemicals.com

  6. #581
    OptiBoard Professional Lewy's Avatar
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    Markaway

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser
    Must have been a competitior spreading a rumor as they periodically do.

    Markaway is one of our bread and butter items used just around the whole globe. It removes all the markings fast and easy and does not even cost half the price competitiors sell similar products. Find it at http://optochemicals.com
    Just to confirm, can it be used on Poly? As I have a full bottle in front of me, as oposed to a full frontal lobotomy!

    Lewy

  7. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lewy
    Just to confirm, can it be used on Poly? As I have a full bottle in front of me, as oposed to a full frontal lobotomy!

    Lewy
    yep

  8. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry a saake
    :idea: When measuring pd,s, especially for progressives it is not always a good idea to rely on the pupilometer. The pupilometer can be off for two reasons, one being the reflection your seeing is not always the center of the pupil.
    .......Second, a pupilometer does not fit on the bridge of the nose the same way the average frame does, even more so with wire frames with adjustable nose pads.
    .....Because of the assemetry of the human face and the fact that the human body has a natural curve to the left, you will notice in a good many people the nose curves slighlty to the left also. This is why you will quite commonly notice these differences in pd,s when taken in a monocular fashion. It is typical to see less on the left side of the nose and a slightly higher reading on the right. This is because the nose is slightly more concave on the left and a little more convex on the right.
    .....Due to the actual shape of the nose and how the pupilometer sits on it my vary the correct reading, thus it is probably better when fitting progessives and aspheric lenses to also dot the pupil and compare your readings. Of course dotting lenses should always be done after the frame has been fully adjusted in the as worn mode.
    _________

    I was reading through this ( as suggested :D ) and I have a question.

    Whats wrong with using your PD measuring ruler? I used that for a long time before even using the dotting method on the lenses ( which is fine) . Just wondered if no one uses the PD ruler anymore.

  9. #584
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    Jewel: The PD stick has fallen into disfavor because it requires a little professional expertise and judgement. Other tools are designed to be idiot proof so we can hire idiots for the job and train them for minites instead of months.

  10. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson
    Jewel: The PD stick has fallen into disfavor because it requires a little professional expertise and judgement. Other tools are designed to be idiot proof so we can hire idiots for the job and train them for minites instead of months.
    When it comes to our patients vision objects need to be idiot proof. Mistakes cannot happen.

  11. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson
    Jewel: The PD stick has fallen into disfavor because it requires a little professional expertise and judgement. Other tools are designed to be idiot proof so we can hire idiots for the job and train them for minites instead of months.

    Hmmm. Does everything these days have to be 'less then , instead of more then '? What I mean is, todays generation ( not all ) seems to do whatever it takes to do less.

  12. #587
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    I actually once listened to a long trieste on the theory that all man's progress was due to his laziness. All inventions were perported to be ways to avoid doing laborous or tedious tasks. It had something to be said for it.


    Chip

  13. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson
    I actually once listened to a long trieste on the theory that all man's progress was due to his laziness. All inventions were perported to be ways to avoid doing laborous or tedious tasks. It had something to be said for it.


    Chip

    Yes, I guess I can agree there. But only if it accomplishes the same quality of work.

  14. #589
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    Since the beginning of time people have always been lazy. Just as we get older we tend to blame the new technology and young generations for it.

    What do you think people were saying when the Romans invented plumbing, or during the industrial revolution. Fact is, the more we move forward the more is expected of us.

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    <Spamming from drug company removed>

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    Morris:

    We are opticians, we fit, manufacture, fabricate, modify and design optical products. We leave medicine and desease to doctors. We are being extra smart if we can recognise a desease or condition and send it to a doctor.
    We need not be smart enough to treat anything.

    Sorry,

    Chip

  17. #592
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    tips

    Hey guys, this is suppose to be a thread about tips on dispensing, griping needs to go to another thread

  18. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lewy
    Just to confirm, can it be used on Poly? As I have a full bottle in front of me, as oposed to a full frontal lobotomy!
    Lewy
    If is say's polycarbonate edge polish from OMS that is the baby.

  19. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cindy Hamlin
    For removing AR coatings, there is a product called Armor Etch (for etching glass). It can be purchased at most craft and hobby stores and removes the AR (all but glass) as well as the acid with less risk!
    I have used Armor Etch and found that it is messy and does not give a consistent result. I have been using Whink, which you kind find in any store that sells cleaning products. It is a rust remover and comes in a brown bottle. I find it works well and its cheap!;)
    Jeff

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    Exclamation Being cheap can get you sick......................

    Quote Originally Posted by jjlabra
    It is a rust remover and comes in a brown bottle. I find it works well and its cheap
    The main ingredient that will etch glass and remove AR (SIO2) coatings is Hydrofluoric acid. This acid is the most dangerous of all acids.

    Therefore handling AR strippers should not be a matter of price...............but a matter of safe and easy handling of the product without endangering your health.

  21. #596
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    I'm not asking you to drink this stuff. You think the other product is "safe"? I was merely referencing what works for me better than Armor Etch, beside the cost. Go ahead and spend $40 for a little bottle for every few jobs. I'll get my $4 bottle to last me a lot longer. You can let us know how you like it after you use it.

    For those of you interested in the product; it's in a brown bottle.

    Whink, Rust Stain Remover; for all colorfast fabrics, white sinks and white toilet bowls. NOT a general purpose rust remover. "AS ADVERTISED ON Dr. Laura"
    Jeff

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    Big Smile Dr. Laura.........................

    Quote Originally Posted by jjlabra
    Whink, Rust Stain Remover; for all colorfast fabrics, white sinks and white toilet bowls. NOT a general purpose rust remover. "AS ADVERTISED ON Dr. Laura"
    Dr Laura is now the specialist who switched from the sex to the optical trade. Toilet bowl cleaner to work on lenses.

    I bet you still tint your lenses in your kitchen with WRIT DYES for home fabric tinting in a saucepan on your kitchen stove.

    :bbg: :D :bbg:

  23. #598
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    corn cushions (on the feet) also work

  24. #599
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    Corn cushions....................

    Quote Originally Posted by eyegoddess1028
    corn cushions (on the feet) also work
    Even better if you soak them first, for 12 hours in balsamic vinegar

    :D

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    I'm Confused. Drip wax on the screw and that helps get the broken/ stripped screw out? Tell me more.

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