Steph:
To get poly out of a rimless groove I give the lens a light turn or two on the soft wheel on our buffer. It gets the shwarf out and also gives the edge a nice finished look.
Why use executives at all (except when you have a pediatric opthalmologist that wants if for strabismus)? It went over big when it was new, but it's a piece of junk and most patient's will change when you tell them so. Explain that they won't see any better if as well, and thier glasses will be twice as thick, heavy and ugly as another type bifocal/trifocal.
Chip
Stephanie:
I just take a paper clip, and grind it down in the groove. Doesn't seem to hurt anything and takes the poly out.
Chip
If peroxide is this essential maybe a simple disinfectant would do, such as dettol, others?? cream disinfectant should be used whenever you cut yourselves, even if you don't use a plaster
:angry: but a huge note, and you all should know this one...
keep your TETANUS shots and all the other shots, RE: flu, mumps measles, rubella, etc. These shots won't make you invincible, but will make life better, as a screwdriver is a great place for rust (even if you can't see it), and therefore tetanus, so just keep those shots !!
Patients carry diseases, its a fact, because we catch these things from people, especially in close contact, ie a dispenser.
Keep the disposable gloves, people will come in with horrible frames, and sometimes blood covered frames.:shiner:
james
What a bunch of wimps!
One should take a few chances in life.
:idea: To sell more Ar, try this, make yourself up a pair of glasses with one eye Ar, and the other without. Put it on and show the patient. Very obvious.
[COLOR=orange]:idea: Keep in mind when measuring and dispensing occupational segs that you can only control one of the heights. If you order the bottom 20 high you get whatever height cuts out on the top. Often that may not be enough.
.......... It is typical to have to compensate a little on the top and the bottom in these cases, so that you have enough room for both segs to work
............I also tend to use the larger frames on these type segs.
............As an example of something that might not work, you have a frame with a "B" measurement of 40 MM. You set the bottom seg at 17MM, add the 12 MM distance between the segs and you now have used 29 MM, leaving only 11MM at the top.
............Now lets say you have a frame with a "B" measurement of 50MM. Lets say you set the bottom seg at 21MM, add in the 12 MM between the segs,and you now have 17 MM left for the top.
...........Another consideration is to know the distance betwwen the segments as various companies make them with different distances.
...........Last consideration should be what the focal lengths are between the top and the bottom. If neccessary have the patient go back and measure it, as some of these occupationals can be ordered with two different powers,typically weaker on the top.
...........You would probably be amazed at how many occupations can use these lenses when made right, three of the biggest being post office workers, painters and auto mechanics. If you fabricate industrial safety glasses you should have even more call for these lenses. Have some samples in stock and show them and dont worry about the cost. When it works they will buy it.
One should also do that disinfectant thingy, promptly after stabbing oneself, in much the same way you shouldn't share needles, you probably shouldn't share instruments if you are going to stab yourself with them.Originally posted by chip anderson
What a bunch of wimps!
One should take a few chances in life.
Don't forget that you should try to have fun at work too, but just think of number one, then the rest.
(am i sounding like your mother yet??)
James
When someone brings you a pair of eyeglasses for repair that has BLOOD on it---Tell the client that you need to be safe and put on surgical gloves to take the frame, and then pour Clorox bleach on the frame. Its the quickest surest way of making sure any AIDS virus if present is killed. The result is immediate, it does not have to soak in it for any extended period. We pour it over the sink and then just rinse it. No office should be without it.
When selling any photochromatic lens, i always darken them in front of the patient under a uv light, really shows them that they work and it might just help break them in faster. Also have had a lot of positve feedback about the new transition quantams. They really get dark outdoors and a lite tint in the car. I DO NOT WORK FOR TRANSITIONS.
:bbg: If any of you are looking for matching lenses, vision ease (WHOM I DO NOT WORK FOR) has there outlook lens now available in clear,polarized and transition quantam. Very nice combination when you want to make multiple pairs and have them match in material and seg style.
Unless the medical profession and the CDC is lying to us, AIDS virus cannot live outside the body but a few minites. Most virus for that matter can't live outside the body very long. Stop worring about it and get to work! If the blood's dry it's been long enough!
Chip
Chip,
Not so much an issue of AIDS or hepatitis, but I have seen many silicone nosepads and temple covers burst and ooze; there is definitely something living in them.
Actually, I have more of a concern about folks coming in to pick out frames after just finding out they have "Pink Eye." I usually find out about the condition around the ninth frame they have tried on. No one seems to remember all of the frames the person has touched. This is one case where I think disinfection is in order. Are my concerns unfounded?
Metho, acetone, and cuts....ouch, every time it stings and can really disrupt your work, but try this tip out...
Most automotive stores will sell a product called invisigloves, or something to that effect. This product works basically the same way that PVA glue does, but is chemically resistant. it just needs to be rubbed over hands, and there you go, gloves, that can't be seen, and don't distract!
It is expensive, but you only use a little at a time so it pays off....eventually. retails for about AU$30, and that is for a 140Ml tube. probably much cheaper in US bucks, and probably only a couple of quid, in the uk.
....and the best bit, you get to peel off the stuff when your done, and your left with a cute little hand print!! (i know your thrilled dammit!!)
Bye!
James
Does anybody know what, or how the green stuff under old nosepads is, or a way to "vaccinate" a frame against this?
I'm taking a guess at the white nosepads/ temple tips and thinking plasticisers, but what is the green gunk??!!
first to answer get a drink, when i'm round your way
I am a wearer of the new sola lens, featuring the new transitions technology.... absolutley brilliant, i wear a solaMAX Velocity M/C (AO compact anyone?) which is great, gives dark when needed, lightens faster, and strangely does seem to go a little darker in the car, which by theory is a little strange (UV filter car etc) , but i'm happy with them.Originally posted by harry a saake
When selling any photochromatic lens, i always darken them in front of the patient under a uv light, really shows them that they work and it might just help break them in faster. Also have had a lot of positve feedback about the new transition quantams. They really get dark outdoors and a lite tint in the car.
no endorsment for sola in particular, but the new transitions are good...
also does anybody have any reviews by patients/ themselves, of a new lens the PPG trilogy/trivex?? i thinks its distributed by younger optics....
any way thanks all
James
James,
There's several message threads about Trivex already:
http://www.optiboard.com/forums/sear...der=descending
OptiBoard Administrator
----
OptiBoard has been proudly serving the Eyecare Community since 1995.
Been told green gunk is mixture of facial oils, sweat and copper oxide. Sees to occur on nose pads with no copper though.
Chip
:idea: When ordering and dispensing plus lenses, keep in mind that the smaller your eyesize, the thicker the nasal edge is going to be for a standard molded blank. Most plus lenses if there much above +2.00 will be better ordered custom ground for the patient, so you may derive minumum thickness. Also keep in mind that aspheric plus lenses will look there best when not decentered. They will also work better.
This may seem obvious, but from what i have seen walking into various optical shops a priority should be cleaning the frames on display. It is highly usual in the womens section for sure, to pick up metal frames and see tons of makeup on the nose pads. In all sections it will be common to see fingerprints all over the demo lenses. Ever had a patient hand you the frame and say can you clean this?
I know this is more of a fitting issue than a dispensing one; however, it would be interesting to read any quick tips on fitting FT's. How to avoid driving hyperope's insane by not fitting too high for example.
The reason so many hperopes have trouble witha flatop is, if you think about the construction of the bifocal itself, you will realize the thickest part is on the top. As the add power increases so does the thickness of the bifocal itself. On top of that you are now taking that and magnifying it with the distance rx.
........Thats why myopes have less of a time with the flattop as the line is demagnified.
.........Try using round segs, panoptics(if you can still get them), or curve top bifocals.
.........Another alternative that will sometimes work is to use a smart seg.
..........One should also keep in mind that if you are using anything above a +3.50 add, you will probably have to grind the lens slightly thicker or you will grind into the bifocal.
.........If you could see a flattop bifocal by itself, which by the way is also known as a button, you would see it is shaped like a wedge, or a prism, henceforth the problem as the thick part is on the top.
............My personal experience is they work best usually when fit high, talking about hyperopes, as i think they have less tendency to look down on the top of the bifocal
Harry,
What do you use a reference point when you fit high? (For example, normal fitting is at the lower lid.)
Harry:
You didn't mention that Flat~tops also have base up prism, Plus lenses also have base up prism when viewed below the center.. The two (seg. and distance) give a lot of jump. The flat~tops in glass which are fused as plastic should/could be, don't have added thickness inferiorly and do not have a bump on the front to scratch. Too bad plastic bifocals are made from a single index.
Round top bifocals have base down prism, this offsets the base up prism hyperopes experience when the look down, so both jump and the amount the eye must look down are reduced.
With progresives, I haven't figured out just what is happening prism wise yet. Would appreciate someone contributing some smarts on this.
Chip
Jo, i normally try and go at least that high or maybe a mm higher, if i have the option of adjustable nose pads. If i have that option i try to preadjust the frame so that i will be able to move it up or down to the patients comfort.
.......Another tip you can try is to go and by some of these paste on bifocals and see how they react.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks