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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #101
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    Here is another tip for rimless mounting. When re-stringing a rimless frame it is very easy to get the string just a hair to big. I have found that the easiest way to correct that is with a lighter. Just apply a little heat to the string and it will shrink. You have to move quickly because the string will melt. But once you figure it out it saves a lot of trimming time and frustration.

  2. #102
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    5 - 6 thin coats of Varathane protect metal frames beautifully.
    Corrosion of metal temples can be prevented with clear 3M shrink tubing. It comes in several diameters and lengths and its cheap.
    Remove the end piece, slide on the tubing, hit it with a hair dryer or lighter, it shrinks down tight and forever, replace the end piece. When you get good at it no one sees the tubing. Angry customers become angels when you do this . . . believe me.

    You can get real creative with this stuff, too. It comes in tons of colors.

  3. #103
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    I am looking for everyone's techniques for avoiding "stars" on the safety bevel of glass lenses.

    I used to start out on a diamon stone and then clean up the bevel on a ceramic wheel. I no longer have a ceramic stone available so I am looking to our experienced OptiBoarders for tips and techniques.

  4. #104
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    Jo, Get your ceramic stone back.

  5. #105
    Bad address email on file optigoddess's Avatar
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    I recently found out that when struggling with a dried-out, nasty figure 8 liner that refuses to budge : lubricate with good ol'WD 40 - it slid right on out - slicker than a whistle !

  6. #106
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Jo, Al is right , you will have to get back the ceramic stone and also run it with a lot of water. From one who has done close to a half million pair of glass lenses, i can also tell you that it is a matter of running the lens around the stone the right way, which is not to hard and several times, until you see the stars and flakes disappear. Of course you have to do it on the front and back, and usually your back edge will be the worst. One clue, and you will especially see this with flint glass and photocromatics, is to watch for an orange glow where you are beveling. If you see this you are pressing too hard or you need some more water. Its really easy once you do a few thousand. You should be able by that time to hold the lens between your thumb and first finger and push the lens around evenly with your left thumb, assuming you are right handed. When you really get good you will be able to hold one lens in each hand between the thumb and first finger and do two at a time. We use to do this as a joke years ago at B&L when the execs came down from Rochester.

  7. #107
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    Redhot Jumper

    Hope someone hasn't mentioned this yet. New product from Hilco. Universal mount nose pads. Same pad fits push-on, Screw-on and snap-in. Means you only have to have about 1/3 the number of nose pads to keep up with. Comes in several shapes including round.

    Have been using about a month or two and find I am much less likely to not have a nosepad I need.

    Chip

  8. #108
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Harry,

    Believe it or not (hopefully not); I am old enough to know how to do a one handed bevel. With my left hand, now that one I don't believe I am quite co-ordinated enough to do.

    This one if for you, Al and Chip. One of the old Guild Guys I used to work under, Norm Wheeler, told me he used to make custom sized segs then attach them to the lens. I can't imagine grinding the things let alone edging them by hand with a stone and bull nose. How well did the adhesive actually work back then? He told me in a pinch he used to use corn syrup or starch; I can't remember which.

  9. #109
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    Jo: In Glass, the custom segs were ground as a thin wafer and attached with Canadian Balsam. Could be removed with Zylene. These were and are used more for the rare cases when a different prism requirement is needed for near than distance. We could do this in our small 4 man in house lab in a few hours. It takes specially labs months to do this in plastic. Strange isn't it?

    However when you need to do this in plastic, you can make two pairs of S-V lenses and split them (touch up with a disc sander) and mount them in the frame. You can do this quickly and much less expensively than having something custom made.

    Chip

  10. #110
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    How about dispensing troubleshooting tips? We could all probably stand to touch up on this area and some of us could use some training as well.

    OK - Px comes in after wearing glasses for a week. New Rx with + Rx on top over 3.00 add. Seg is fit to lower lid. Px is having trouble with glare watching TV and reading isn't as good as old RX. Letters look fine but things don't feel as comfortable. What do you do?

  11. #111
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    I personally would check the old rx for - AR coating on old but not on new, different axis, and difference in OC's. Also frame fit and BVD, particularly if it's a high Rx.
    Now can the people who know please post what you're ACTUALLY supposed to do, in case someone mistakes this for a correct answer? :)

    (And the edit was for some shocking grammar to be corrected, Harry)

    [This message has been edited by Maria (edited 04-05-2001).]

  12. #112
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    Jo, had the lab do a job the other day that called for +4.00 add on a photo-gray X , did a SV carrier lens and a bonded on ft-30.. segment, worked great! Took a few "days" to get. ha ha Al.

  13. #113
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Al:

    How does the lens look in its darkened state? More consistent color I bet.

  14. #114
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Here is a common troubleshooting tip. Patient comes in wearing pgx lenses and you switch him to clear lenses. In most cases they will hate it as they are so use to a tint that everything now seems too bright and they will swear the rx is wrong. Probably best to keep them in that tinted lens.

  15. #115
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Harry, good point; we often forget about tint changes.

    OK, the above troubleshooting exmaple - same as Maria, tell me if I am wrong or add to it if you have more tips.

    I would compare Rx to see if add is much higher. I would also compare new seg height to old. High plus on top with high add means the Px may catch reflections of the top of the seg. I would try a little panto and try dropping the segs a little bit by opening up the nosepads. If the new seg is way off from the old height I might need to remake them lower. As long as I am remaking them I probably should mention AR.

    Along these same lines, what would you guys put a round seg or blended wearer in with the same Rx, would you keep them in the same or try to get them into something else?

  16. #116
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    This one is an actual problem I encountered some time ago. Px never came back so I don't know how she fared in the end.

    Who: Kindergarten teacher
    What: Presbyopic
    Special Needs: Needs to hold book or see board above her head to read read them and have them be visible to kids at the same time. Needs to be able to see kids sitting on floor when looking down. Wants to see clearly to back of the room. Hopes to get it all out of one pair of glasses, very reluctant to use 2 pair.
    Fit With: PAL
    Problem after dispense: Uncomfortable trying to hold head in right position to focus on everythin. Freqently looks from one near point to far things out of focus most of the time.

    What would you guys do in this situation?

  17. #117
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    Jo,
    If the problem you're describing is what I'm understanding it to be, occupational bifocals might be the answer. That way, she would have the reading power for looking above her head, and also for normal reading - and distance vision to look out and see little Johnny pulling little Suzy's hair... again!
    The main problem is summed up in the fact that she wants one pair of glasses to do everything. Maybe one day someone will invent such a creature (and we will all invest in their company).

    Blake

  18. #118
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Blake,

    Yes she is trying to get alot out of one pair of glasses. An add on the bottom won't work for her because of the little ones at her feet and the way she holds her head when reading to the class.

  19. #119
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    Jo, have you thought about using a ribbon seg for this problem?

  20. #120
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Harry:

    No, I didn't even think of that. One of my thoughts had been mounting a lens with the add at the top of the frame.

  21. #121
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    My wife has serious cylinder in her prescription. She also likes frames with metal at the top and string at the bottom---whatever you guys call them.

    Well them suckers are prone to pop the lenses out of the frames.

    Years ago, I instituted the process of making a small scratch to index the lens with the frame with a Swiss pattern file. I can get the lenses back in right when they pop out.

  22. #122
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    Lightbulb

    Jo,
    If the pt is having trouble with their new Rx did the new bifocal power increase significantly? If so they are getting a glare off the top ledge of the bifocal. AR, light tint or glass will take care of it.

  23. #123
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    Jo
    The two worstest of the 5 worst patient types are teachers and engineers. Opticians get gray hair from them right before their eyes and they are absolutely clueless why.

    We had a contract with the LA City Unified School District. Teachers filed past us like an Army recruiting station. After they drove us nuts we learned that they are really impressed with Double D segs. That so-called upper reading requirement is actually intermediate. It's been a long time since I've dispensed them. When I see a teacher I pull the shades down and go to lunch!
    Unless things have changed there are some options for seg size, power, and distance window size (distance between segs). Remember that the upper seg is upside down and is 60% of the add unless ordered otherwise. Whoever runs a lab on this forum would know better than me about availability.

    Your patient with the 3 add . . .
    As Maria says: Check for AR. When the add gets to +3.00 it's no longer an edge. It's a shelf! The add line will reflect light, will generate color from prismatic dispersion,and sore bunions! Everybody else has offered the right things on the impact of the prescription so I'll leave that alone. You might slap a rose tint on the lens. I have been known in certain circles to mask the lens and tint the line the way Univis did a thousand years ago. But, if others are watching you may be facing some time in a padded room.

  24. #124
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    Dilbert
    You're hired.
    The depth of the groove is determined by the technician if it is done on a manual groover. It can be regrooved if the technician is not a klutz. To reduce the possibility of a klutz chipping the edge of the groove, pick up a black foam board emery board. The edge is nice and clean and once or twice around the inside of the groove substantially reduces the risk. The nylon eyewire will need to be tightened a bit.
    Start 9:00AM Monday morning.
    $7.50/hr to start as a trainee.
    Benefits in 90 days, 401K someday.
    Free pair of glasses once a year, 50% off for family!
    Call 18005551212!

  25. #125
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    :bbg: two of the ways i use to remove the debris on a rimless lens after edging. One is to put it in an ultrasonic cleaner. Second is to use a toothbrush and go around the edge.

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