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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #1076
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter SharonB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrgirl View Post
    too bad varilux discontinued their occupational PAL.... had a 3/4 power up top and a pre-comfort pal in the bottom... what was that called? started with an 'I'... Oh yes, Infinity.
    they couldn't sell enough to warrant making changes. If she isn't resistant, try a double D.... ugly, but useful.
    I think you mean the "OverView" - it had a visible upside down seg at the top (looked like a small Ultex) and a PAL at the bottom. I loved mine - I could take seg heights without raising my chin and messing up the measurement!
    Lost and confused in an optical wonderland!

  2. #1077
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    RRGIRL, If you hit that reply with quote button, we would better understand a post that you are referring to.

  3. #1078
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    Yes that is the name of the pal, but I was referring to the design varilux used in the bottom of the lens. I had several patients in that lens, they all loved them, but they are no more.... they did not want to revamp the bottom half of the lens. If they had revamped it with the comfort design, they would have grown in popularity I think... an would still be current.... don't you think?

  4. #1079
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    I did the first time..... sorry, getting used to the format. dropped me out of the reply a couple of times.

  5. #1080
    OptiBoard Novice cecstephen's Avatar
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    How about suggesting a frame style(s) that would work for a high plus rx???

  6. #1081
    OptiBoard Novice cecstephen's Avatar
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    How about suggesting the frame styles you would use then???

  7. #1082
    Independent Problem Optiholic edKENdance's Avatar
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    Help me with tips and tricks for shortening and stylizing acetate temples. As an example, I recently made a pair for a lady with a brilliant front but the temples were about 10mm too long. Fortunately the wire core didn't come into play so I was able to saw the excess off. File the remaining tip. Soften with acetate and buff to acceptable. I'd imagine that when the wire core comes into play in some cases I can simply reattach a shorter amount of excess length by melting together with acetate and then buffing. This would only work if the temple widths were the same.

    I don't have a lot of experience doing this so any tricks or tips would be welcome.

  8. #1083
    Manuf. Lens Surface Treatments
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    You can always shorten a temple, but stay away from trying to lengthen it.

  9. #1084
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    Agree with the post above - Have seen some nasty shortened temples.

  10. #1085
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    Personally, except under DIRE circumstances, would not shorten zyl temples.... although I have done it with some success. ( the dire circumstance was dog chewed temple tips a couple of weeks before exam date for one example.. it was painful for the patient) I really don't recommend the practice. Much more satisfactory to all involved to pick a frame with the proper size available... although I know this is not always a possibility. I have never attempted nor have I seen a successful lengthening beyond a couple of mm... (heating at the bend (narrowest) part of the temple and litterally pulling the temple end to lengthen the temple. Have seen and done many lengthening of metal temples... much easier and more successful project, even without 'lengthening temple tips'.

    Quote Originally Posted by mattybell View Post
    Agree with the post above - Have seen some nasty shortened temples.

  11. #1086
    Independent Problem Optiholic edKENdance's Avatar
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    I've only extended metal temples with temple extending temple tips. They usually add 10mm. I've done a couple more acetate temple shortenings since I posted. I did one for our receptionist. Was able to remove 13mm and then a little filing and buffing and they look like they haven't been altered and fit her perfectly.

  12. #1087
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    Quote Originally Posted by edKENdance View Post
    I've only extended metal temples with temple extending temple tips. They usually add 10mm. I've done a couple more acetate temple shortenings since I posted. I did one for our receptionist. Was able to remove 13mm and then a little filing and buffing and they look like they haven't been altered and fit her perfectly.
    I find over the long haul, the shortened temples wear 'funny'.. unevenly and with color changes... I mean wear like ages, not how they fit. to extend temples on metal frames without the aid of temple tips made for the purpose, use discarded metal temples to cut 5, 7, and 9 mm lengths of the cores in pairs (so they match) in popular diameters. when you have someone that needs just a little more and if it does marr the symetry of the design, add in to the standard tip. little longer to help get the growing child through to his annual check up when he will be replacing his frame and lenses. works also for that adult whose temples (NOT from YOUR practice, you wouldn't do this) are too short to be comfortable and stay on... when he/she must wait until the insurance kicks in or the money arrives or whatever the reason to put off a new pair temporarily when you have kindness in your heart. just keep a few in that vial you keep for unusual screws... we all have one of those! The extension gives it enough firmness to keep the right 'feel'. also handy for those rare occasions when one temple length needs to be longer than the other.
    Last edited by rrgirl; 07-30-2014 at 12:35 PM. Reason: forgot something

  13. #1088
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    Does anyone have a way to add pantascoptic tilt to a frame with very wide temples. I've tried filing down the hinge, but in some cases I need more panto.
    Thanks

  14. #1089
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry a saake View Post
    When changing screw on type nose pads, the vigor pl-5n pliers make a great little tool for grabbing the heads off the screw and pulling it out. Better then tweezers or worse your fingernails. Simply unscrew the screw and then grab the head with the pliers,and out comes the screw. Because of nose cheese it will usually stick to the plier. simply tap the plier on to the benchtop and the screw will fall out. I usually do this on top of a rag and then squirt the screw with some alcohol.
    the old nu-mount pliers...

  15. #1090
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson View Post
    Who uses salt anymore Harry?
    I was in a store last week that still had BEADS!! No kidding...

  16. #1091
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    Quote Originally Posted by CME4SPECS View Post
    RRGIRL, If you hit that reply with quote button, we would better understand a post that you are referring to.
    +1

  17. #1092
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizzo View Post
    I was in a store last week that still had BEADS!! No kidding...
    I still have beads. I goat into the business very early and have used them for 40 years.

    Regards,
    Golfnorth

  18. #1093
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    Oh I am sorry I meant to do reply with quote . This is for the person who needs more panto on the wide temple frames...

    I do hope you meant to say you filed the temple end near the hinge... If you have a three barrel hinge with the single barrel on the frame front, try taking the temples off, bending the barrel on the front down slightly ... only works well (at least for me) with a three barrel... if the single is on the temple, much harder to do, but can be done with patience and a parallel plier. trick is to panto to same degree..., but when you are desperate...

    My mother would file the inside only of the temple to tighten the fit, but for the life of me, I do not understand how this could work. too late to ask. does anyone know?

  19. #1094
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson View Post
    Been told green gunk is mixture of facial oils, sweat and copper oxide. Sees to occur on nose pads with no copper though.
    Chip
    I believe the is trace copper on Monel; surely most optical alloys 'german silver', etc

  20. #1095
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip anderson View Post
    Been told green gunk is mixture of facial oils, sweat and copper oxide. Sees to occur on nose pads with no copper though.<br>
    Chip
    <br>&nbsp;I believe the is trace copper on Monel; surely most optical alloys 'german silver', etc<br><br>
    <br>

  21. #1096
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    I left the ones I saw behind, as well. I have WAY too much old stuff. I can let go of our past. AND I have re-purposed some over the years, so I figure maybe. Some old tools are so pretty; But cones, nah...

  22. #1097
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    If I were to see a guy using glue, he'd be fired...

  23. #1098
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    Gizzo....been told 100 years ago, monel does indeed have copper, (by one of the original owners of cottet frames) been told more recently by an owner of a frame manufacturer that almost all nose pad arms are purchased and added to frames afterward and almost all do have copper.... interesting trivia found out in casual conversation! Have seen green on the most scrupulously cleaned glasses....

  24. #1099
    Manuf. Lens Surface Treatments
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    Blue Jumper Monel ........................

    Monel is a group of nickel alloys, primarily composed of nickel (up to 67%) and copper, with small amounts of iron, manganese, carbon, and silicon. Stronger than pure nickel, Monel alloys are resistant to corrosion by many agents, including rapidly flowing seawater. They can be fabricated readily by hot- and cold-working, machining, and welding.[2]

    Monel was created by David H. Browne, chief metallurgist for International Nickel Co. Monel alloy 400 is binary alloy of the same proportions of nickel and copper as is found naturally in the nickel ore from the Sudbury (Ontario) mines and is therefore considered a puritan alloy. Monel was named after company president Ambrose Monell, and patented in 1906.[3]One L was dropped, because family names were not allowed as trademarks at that time.[1] The name is now a trademark ofSpecial Metals Corporation.

    It is a very expensive alloy, with cost ranging from 5 to 10 times the cost of copper and nickel, hence its use is limited to those applications where it cannot be replaced with cheaper alternatives.

    from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monel

  25. #1100
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    Hello fellow Opticians/Optometrists

    I have a problem with my Kappa edger, where do you think I should request help?

    kind regards

    Jeff Plaskow (Optom, London UK)

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