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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #1051
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    Redhot Jumper A good way to test visually a good grey or black colored lens .......................

    A good way to test visually a good grey or black colored/tinted prescription lens ............................

    The easiest way to see if a grey or black tinted lens is fairly neutral is by holding 2 the same way tinted lenses, on top of each other, outside without the interference of artifical light and look at some concrete wall or ashphalt.

    If there is a red tinge, the lens color does not have a neutral black color. Besides not giving a perfect color reproduction these lenses will also fade into a purplish, ugly looking sunglasses.

    The most delicate art of tinting has never been in the optical dispensing field, but in the manufacturing of photographic filters which has been searching forever for a perfect black color that has no visible red tinge, even looking through a double filter, or will show on a spectrometer graph as a nearly straight line.

    A black dye is made from a green color, of which there a thousands of variations, by adding red which makes it going into grey/black and by adding more red into brown. By choosing the different green shades, the blacks and browns can be totally different.

    These days such nearly perfect grey/black dyes are now available on the market and the opticians that do their own tinting should use them, and look to find them, and the ones that get them done in a lab should check their jobs and refuse any reddish looking black tinted Rx lenses.

  2. #1052
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Chris, your right and I discovered this trick years ago, and it works, and will show you reds you thought were never there, in fact I think I posted this on the tips some years back

  3. #1053
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    Redhot Jumper Chris, your right and I discovered this trick years ago .............................

    Quote Originally Posted by harry a saake View Post

    Chris, your right and I discovered this trick years ago, and it works, and will show you reds you thought were never there, in fact I think I posted this on the tips some years back

    Harry.....................I wish, I would have thought of checking on your thread by seaching it for this, it might have saved me some time during 3 weeks of intense R&D.
    A few month's back I received an e-mail from a photo filter manufacturer in China, the day we had finished research for a new black dye. His question was simply: "If you put 2 filters on top of each other, do you see any red ?"

    We tinted 2 lenses to 45% absorbtion and looked through them outside, away from any artifical illumination and it was a cloudy day, focusing on dull grey cement wall and there was no visible red at all. Then we put the lenses into our spectrometer and got the following result:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A nearly straight uniform line with the 2 bumps indicating the red needed to make the black but that is totally invisible by the eye.

    The filter manufacturer produces daily 3,000 (30 x 18 cm) black/grey gradient and AR coated CR39 filters for professional video and movie cameras.


  4. #1054
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    Save the plastic banding from your boxes and cut them into 3inch strips to use instead of ribbon for grooved mounts.

    Heat the mounting cord slightly and stretch the cord a little to loosen the lens in the frame remove as normal. Remount the lens and warm the cord again it will tighten right back up.

    When mounting plus lenses place the cord In the groove at the temple (thinnest edge) and use plastic banding to draw the cord into the groove toward the nasal to avoid chipping the lens.

  5. #1055
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    Those that do lens dying, I hate when youre doing a gradient, and there are a ton of bubbles after you stirred the pot up.

    Answer is a lil mist of rubbing alcohol from a spray bottle.... poof gone!

  6. #1056
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    Sorry; this should have been in the section on resiizeing wire or metal rims.
    We were filing the charniers Over 50 Yrs Ago; nothing changes. we also used to "Slip the Joint". That was heating the solder of the joint on both sides until the joints could be slipped so as to shorten the eyewire then as soon as you stopped the solder would reset, the slight overhang of eyewire was then filed off.

    Happy cheating
    Last edited by Les Coote; 12-19-2013 at 08:44 AM. Reason: confusing

  7. #1057
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    As a spin off to that Les, If I am flat outta tricks on getting a too small lens to stay in a metal frame, I will grind off where the screw goes thru the eye wire, it usually 99% of the time gives me just the bit more i need to keep it tight.

  8. #1058
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    Redhot Jumper There is also an old trick to shrink a plastic frame ................................

    Quote Originally Posted by Slim View Post

    If I am flat outta tricks on getting a too small lens to stay in a metal frame, I will grind off where the screw goes thru the eye wire, it usually 99% of the time gives me just the bit more i need to keep it tight.

    There is also an old trick to shrink a plastic frame if a lens has been made a bit small.

    Heat the frame so its nearly soft, and insert the lens, and rinse it right away under cold water ..............which makes the frame shrink and hold the lens tight.

  9. #1059
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    Have a Flexon(memory metal) frame that broke exactly in half at the bridge? Temporarily fix it with electrical butt connectors. Red or blue ones usually fit. Just remove the plastic overlay and crimp on.

  10. #1060
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    Great idea! I have always used the plastic rimless bushings instead. I cut one side so it is a tube, add a little super glue with a toothpick on the inside and then insert the two bridge pieces together. Whaa Laaa!

  11. #1061
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    Redhot Jumper

    During my lifetime in the optical trade I learned a lot of the then basic tricks, as joining broken nitrate (celluloid) frames with acetone. to a totally non visible joint after filing, sanding and buffing.

    Being in the business of developing, finding and making products for easier handling, making or repairing optical frames and lenses I came across some chemicals that would work the same way as acetone did in the old days, but for would do the same for our present day acetate frames as well as another mix which would work on Polycarbonate or Proprionate (Optyl).

    Just by dipping the broken ends, well cleaned, you soften the surfaces by repeated dipping and the join the together in a couple of clamps to hold them together and let dry for 12-24 hours. Then file and sand off the bulge and polish carefully and the joint can't be seen if properly done.

    You can also polish rimless edges on Poly lenses in seconds by just wiping a wet paper tissue over the edges.

    By sealing the inside walls of rimless drill holes with a drop of the product on Polycarbonate lenses you will prevent remakes of these lenses as they will not crack from the mounting holes anymore. That is a recommendation by the Polycarnonate lens manufacturer and main sponsor of OptiBoard, "Vision Ease".

  12. #1062
    OptiBoard Novice KiaABOC's Avatar
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    Christine Murtha. That is a great idea. I found that using heat-shrink cable works too.
    Lakia Renee Sellman, A.B.O.C.

  13. #1063
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    Yes Kia, we use heat shrink tubing for various uses as well. More so on metal temple arms that are causing skin irritation on customers. We love our market on frame repairs. So many places just don't do repairs any more. We solder frames and use the "Hot Fingers" to repair broken plastic bridges and replace hinges too. Great extra income and the new customers from referrals are great for our business!

  14. #1064
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    When taking PD,s with a pupilometer, you can shorten the process somewhat, by judging the apx. pd by eye, and then presetting the pupilometer around that figure. Thus you will get a Pd faster and without so much darting around of the eye, when they have to look at the light for awhile. IE: you have a child with an apx 54 pd, there is no sense in starting off at 35/35, put it at 29/29

  15. #1065
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suzy W View Post
    A question if I can... do any of you have you patients make appointments for frame stylings? Our office is debating about doing this to help the staff..... but I was wondering how that might work.
    What do ya'll think?
    Suzy

    we have patients ALL the time wish that we did appointments for frame selects or even a simple adjustment. it just doesn't work. we have so many people that walk in and end up buying glasses that making appointments wouldn't work. also, because people are spending so much on a nice pair of glasses, they should also get great service with that purchase. I think most of the time people are looking for a good reason to buy their glasses other than the fact that the glasses might be pretty. they are more likely to enjoy their experience and spread the word if they aren't rushed in and out. There is no real way of telling how much time you will spend with a patient. someone might pick a frame in 10 minutes and someone else might pick one in an hour.

    at least, that is the experience we have in our office. people want the full package. If they get GREAT service and GREAT product, then they are going to walk out the door happy.

  16. #1066
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Hinges, you have all seen these rather large 3 barrel hinges on plastic frames like prada, etc., there is one barrel on the temple and two on the frame front. they are constantly loose because of the cheap screws that come from the manufacturer.
    If you would like to have your patients come back less often , just to have these tightened, get rid of these screws and put in a hilco or similar 1.4 or 1.5 nylok screw and peen over the end. these screws are a lot less likely to back out

  17. #1067
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    Hi, This can work !! we don't generally make appointments for fits, styling etc but if px requests it or needs to 'come back with friend' ...we book them in.
    Then we treat it as a normal appointment reminding them and so on and rearranging if nec. The px hopefully respects this as an appointment and will actually show. Before we just said to them come back when good for you and more often as not they didn't (grrrr.) But its amazing the difference a card and follow up call can make.
    :)

  18. #1068
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    Blue Jumper One more way this worked in the old days ...............................

    Quote Originally Posted by harry a saake View Post

    If you would like to have your patients come back less often , just to have these tightened, get rid of these screws and put in a hilco or similar 1.4 or 1.5 nylok screw and peen over the end. these screws are a lot less likely to back out

    One more way this worked in the old days, was ...............to put in a longer screw and then a nut to block the screw from loosening. We even had the nut driver to properly grab it..

  19. #1069
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    Been an optician all my life and just stumbled on this trick... Large safety pin (so you can handle it easily with arthritic hands like I have) opened. point the point just at the attachment location to see if you can get a little space to wriggle in a STIFF ribbon's angled end.. Oh and by the way, I always found those 'stiff' ribbons rare.... but not if you get a package with strapping around the box... the white kind... SAVE it, Cut into 3-4 inch Strips and split into narrow pieces with an angle cut on one end. I find a 1/4" wide or a little less is perfect. Voila'! stiff ribbons we only used to get with LOGO frames in the 80's. Pre-bend the strip so you don't have to fight it to get a grip and you are on your way with only a smidge of time wasted being frustrated.

  20. #1070
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    hi Cape Codger, I am in Franklin, MA and met Ralph Drew in Texas a hundred years ago... great man with lots of insights... miss reading his articles. He was lecturing at a texas opticians association (COAT) meeting and I was privileged to have a drink with him and two others after the meeting. That was about '82 and it wasn't long after when he passed on. Maybe a couple of years. For you newbies, Read his book, OPTICAL DISPENSING, by Ralph Drew... came out late 70's.
    My mother's idea of daycare was putting me to work, about '59 also, started assembling frames and typing out rx info for the doc she worked for. back in the day.


    Tap and snaps are available from Hilco (next town over for me, too bad for all of you that have to wait long on the UPS trail) in Individual size vials... from 1.1 to 1.8 or 1.9 Diameters... for all of you who are newbies, 1.4 is the most commonly used temple screw and eyewire screws..... for now, anyway. standard length is 6mm., but you are going to snap them anyway! I have found them to be better quality than other places' tap and snaps... give it a try.

    From the town with the first public Library, donated by the one and only Ben Franklin, on one of many Boston Post Road...Franklin MA.... also birthplace of Horace Mann, father of public education... or at least one of the fathers, and site of the first public school (supposedly)now called 'the little red schoolhouse'.... and most importantly, home of Different Frames of Mind (registered trademark name entire US, Don't steal it) my optical shop should you be in town.

  21. #1071
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    when you are TRULY desperate, try shortening the screw barrel. takes a lot of time, but is do-able with patience and determination. just remember to MATCH angles on a V-shape (shorten the pointy end, silly) and keep the straight cut joints LEVEL. Will NOT work if the barrel is very short, you will not be able to tighten properly. Patience, patience, patience, and a fine metal file.

  22. #1072
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    Ever tried a round toothpick? has worked for me and doesn't easily scratch anything other than gums. works for a lot of things.

    I even tell my patients when they come in frustrated that a screw fell out on the eyewire of their frame causing a lens drop... If you are not able to get to me to fix the problem immediately for whatever reason (I like time off too, imagine that) shove a ROUND toothpick in the vacant hole from the bottom up (make sure it is the larger hole) while holding in the lens in the right place.... the quickly SOAK the toothpick and glasses in water so the toothpick swells...holding in the lens temporarily. break off the extending toothpick. I'll curse under my breath while I dig it out, but you will be able to see. for temple screws, the tiny yellow safety pins that are used to hold decorations on clothing are a handy and safer way to keep the temple on.... much better than the twisted straight pins and paper clips and sooo much safer. Also makes the patient know you care if he has a problem and calms the anger that it came out in the first place.

  23. #1073
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    the only other thing I do is to flex them so that the middle hits the lens first and press on the lens while holding the edges.... and you are making sure the carrier lens is very wet and the Fresnel is NOT wet... and that the water has a surfactant in it, right? (good surfactant is dish detergent.... TINY amount to make it slippery)
    Sympathy for the one-person store.... me too.

  24. #1074
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    acetone DOES work, but your technique needs to finish with a moleskin type fabric to quickly rub back and forth to restore the luster.
    Careful with acetone. goes right to your liver... don't be soaking your hands in it for longer than you absolutely have to. Use rubbing alcohol instead if you can. alcohol won't work on the old frames, acetone is what will.
    ONE MORE THING about acetone, newbies! it will explode your polycarbonate lens if you touch it to a place that has a scratch that penetrates the scratch coat. don't believe me? try it on an old lens... crackles between the layers of scratch coating. happened to my own lenses 23 years ago.

  25. #1075
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    too bad varilux discontinued their occupational PAL.... had a 3/4 power up top and a pre-comfort pal in the bottom... what was that called? started with an 'I'... Oh yes, Infinity.
    they couldn't sell enough to warrant making changes. If she isn't resistant, try a double D.... ugly, but useful.

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