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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #1026
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    Above advertising should be moved to Marketplace and paid for

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    Hopefully this has not been posted before (if it has I have not seen it):
    Tip for removing the poly residue in a grooved lens.

    Cut a wooden stir stick (like the starbucks ones) at an angle so it has a sharp point. Soak it in water to make it a bit softer. Run the pointed end through the groove in your lens to clean out the poly. I find this the quickest and most effective way to clean the lens.

    I use ladies tights (socks) on the waste hose of the edger. It filters a lot of waste that the manufacturer filters may miss. It will keep the water in your pump tank a lot cleaner or if your edger is connected to a waste drain it will prevent some waste going down the drain.

  3. #1028
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    What would antifreeze in the lab be used for? I'm not a lab person but I would think that peanut oil would be a better choice all the way around.

  4. #1029
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    Blue Jumper What would antifreeze in the lab be used for?..................................

    Quote Originally Posted by spekladie View Post

    What would antifreeze in the lab be used for?
    I'm not a lab person but I would think that peanut oil would be a better choice all the way around.


    It is used by the cheapest of cheap opticians in tinting units, instead of a proper heat transfer oil which is harmless. Antifreeze is usually made with ethylene glycol.
    When heated it emits toxic vapours which are ingested by breathing.

    The first symptom of ethylene glycol ingestion is similar to the feeling caused by drinking alcohol (ethanol). Within a few hours, more toxic effects become apparent. Symptoms may include nausea, vomiting, convulsions, stupor, or even coma.
    An overdose of ethylene glycol can damage the brain, lungs, liver, kidneys, and lungs. The poisoning causes disturbances in the body's chemistry, including metabolic acidosis. The disturbances may be severe enough to cause profound shock, organ failure, and death.
    As little as 120 milliliters (approximately 4 fluid ounces) of ethylene glycol may be enough to kill an average-sized man.

    ------------> http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001778/

    A few years back I got a telephone call by the Vancouver BC Fire Department who had evacuated all people in a 10 story office building where some toxic chemical fumes had been reported in the buildings ventilation system.

    They traced to source to the optician on the ground floor who claimed that he was using dyes manufactured by my company. They wanted to know what were the toxic fumes emitted by dyes. I explained that dyes were made with pigments, surfactants and water, and the only and the only evaporation would come from the water. The only other evaporation of chemicals in a tinting unit could be from the Neutralizer or the heat transfer media, which it was.

    It is always best to use water based chemicals if you have no proper outside ventilation to get rid of the fumes.


    By the way this was my post No 16,000, just for the record.
    Last edited by Chris Ryser; 01-07-2013 at 04:20 AM.

  5. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by spekladie View Post
    What would antifreeze in the lab be used for? I'm not a lab person but I would think that peanut oil would be a better choice all the way around.
    In a glass lab, antifreeze is an inexpensive substitute (and a safe one btw) for cutting solutions (water soluble oils). A cup or so in 5 gallons of water makes a wonderful edging solution. Higher concentrations are used in generating. Fumes are non-existent when properly diluted, and it does not "grow" and generate mold or yeast growths, unlike many of the "oils" currently in use. Just don't use RV antifreeze. That stuff is crazy stinky.

  6. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeAurelius View Post

    In a glass lab, antifreeze is an inexpensive substitute (and a safe one btw) for cutting solutions (water soluble oils). A cup or so in 5 gallons of water makes a wonderful edging solution. Higher concentrations are used in generating. Fumes are non-existent when properly diluted, and it does not "grow" and generate mold or yeast growths, unlike many of the "oils" currently in use. Just don't use RV antifreeze. That stuff is crazy stinky.

    When somebody talks about the lab and difference between antifreeze and peanut oil they talk tinting units and not glass cutting.
    When ethylene glycol gets heated up the vapours become dangerous to your health...........just as simple as that.

  7. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser View Post
    When somebody talks about the lab and difference between antifreeze and peanut oil they talk tinting units and not glass cutting.
    When ethylene glycol gets heated up the vapours become dangerous to your health...........just as simple as that.
    Two part question, Chris. TWO PARTS. I answered the first, you answered the second. Can't you just leave it alone, do you always have to be right?

  8. #1033
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    Blue Jumper

    Mike........it was not a 2 part question. Today's optician has no notion about glass lens surfacing and does no such thing in his backoom lab.

    To save money some do use Antifreeze or Peanut oils as heat transfer means in their tinting unit, plus most of them that do so, also have no ventilation.

  9. #1034
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Ryser View Post
    Mike........it was not a 2 part question. Today's optician has no notion about glass lens surfacing and does no such thing in his backoom lab.

    To save money some do use Antifreeze or Peanut oils as heat transfer means in their tinting unit, plus most of them that do so, also have no ventilation.
    Actually, you are correct, there was only one question in the post:

    "What would antifreeze in the lab be used for?"
    You seem to making huge assumptions about what a lab is. I answered the question from the viewpoint of someone who uses antifreeze IN MY LAB every day. Why do you assume there are people who don't work with glass in their labs? You are looking at things from a very narrow, blinkered and fettered point of view. Relax. Allow others to be right occasionally.

  10. #1035
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    Geez, knock it off! If you guys want to fight, take it to another playground.

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  11. #1036
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    Blue Jumper Guaranteed no more slippage on slick coated AR lenses.............................





    Guaranteed no more slippage on slick coated AR lenses, by following these steps:


    1) Order your preferred AR coated lenses without any slick coat.

    2) Edge and prepare lenses for mounting into frame.

    3) Apply the easy clean slick coat yourself, in house without any extra equipment, just before mounting.

    You will have no more redo's because of that reason.
    An easy search on the web will find you suppliers for the needed materials.

  12. #1037
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    How do you do panto and retro tilt to a semi rimless frame with a very thin edge thickness without chipping the lens if the material is plastic.

    It's a nightmare sometimes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrmessi View Post
    How do you do panto and retro tilt to a semi rimless frame with a very thin edge thickness without chipping the lens if the material is plastic.
    it really depends on the frame design. you mentioned the material being plastic; i don't know if you mean the lens or the frame. if the frame is plastic you can put it in a frame warmer to soften it up, but if your lenses are a/r coated, you'll have to remove them before exposing the frame to heat. if the frame is metal then, ideally, you'll be able to grab the end-piece with a pair of pliers - half rounds are usually a good bet. then you'll want to grab the henge to adjust the temples. if you have henge pliers, this is what they're for. if not, you need to get some, but in the mean time you can try to get a grip on it with a pair of hollow snipe nose pliers. if the frame design doesn't allow you to get a grip on the end-piece then you'll need to remove the lens to make the adjustment. with the lens removed you should be able to use a pair of nylon pliers to grab both the end-piece and the eye-wire together to be able to make the adjustment. if flaking is already a concern, then be sure to take your time removing the lens as overly thin edges can flake very easily while trying to get the string out of the grove. if it's a plus lens with a thicker nasal side, start working the string out from there.

  14. #1039
    Bad address email on file Randle Tibbs, ABOM's Avatar
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    since you are apparently new to the industry and some of the lingo may be unfamiliar to you, i would recommend purchasing "System for Ophthalmic Dispensing" by Clifford Brooks and Irvin Boorish. It is essentially a step by step instruction book with great illustrations as well.
    You may also want to check out the resources section of OptiBoard , there are some really great resources listed.

    Randle

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    Quote Originally Posted by Randle Tibbs, ABOM View Post
    "System for Ophthalmic Dispensing" by Clifford Brooks and Irvin Boorish.
    this might actually be the most helpful tip out of this whole thread. this is a GREAT book! anyone that hasn't read it, no mater how long you've been in the industry, will learn something from it.

  16. #1041
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    Antifreeze is also used in the chiller machines that are in a full service lab. A chiller is used to pump cold water through the chilling ring in the bucket that is full of polish or water during the fining and polishing process.

  17. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrmessi View Post
    How do you do panto and retro tilt to a semi rimless frame with a very thin edge thickness without chipping the lens if the material is plastic.It's a nightmare sometimes.
    Yes, this can be very difficult, particularly if the side is quite thick. I introduced a policy in our practice of only selling half frames with high index lenses for this reason amongst others. That would be my best suggestion.
    Last edited by Robert_S; 01-30-2013 at 12:36 PM.

  18. #1043
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    A couple of random tips:

    1. If you have a phillips head screw where the "+" grooves have been stripped in the head (especially if you don't have a screw extractor), try taking a metal file (the kind that is 2mm thick or more), and place the edge of the file onto the screw head at a 45 degree angle (so that the edge of the file will make a "v" shape in the screw head), and carefully make a few passes back and forth, being careful to keep the file level so as not to damage the frame. You'll create a new groove that will allow a regular slotted tip screwdriver to remove it. This is a life-saver, especially in certain types of frames that don't allow two-sided access to the screw. If you have access to both sides of the screw, a screw extractor tool might cause you less stress, especially if you're worried about etching or marring the frame near the screw hole.

    2. If you sell Italee frames, we have found that the hinge area may need routine maintenance. Over time the tension in the hinge will diminish, or sometimes you may find that the temple sort of squeaks and works itself out of the hinge. Note, you don't have to send these back to Italee. Just try the following.

    If it's too loose and easily pops out, this means you have too little tension horizontally in the hinge. Remove the temple, cover the lens, and heat the hinge are in a frame warmer. Then, gripping the hinge area with one hand, use your opposite hand thumb to push the hinge gap together. Hold it that way for about 10 seconds while it cools. Then, replace the temple. You will know it was a successful repair when you hear or feel the temple click into place.

    If the temple is squeaking and working itself out of the hinge, the problem is likely due to the temple not having enough vertical clearance in the hinge area. This can be remedied by gently filing down the top and bottom edge of the temple area that snaps into the hinge. Just use an emery board, and go easy. You don't need to remove much material. Once you reattach the temple, you should notice that it clicks into place, but it now moves freely (without tension noticed previously).
    Last edited by Roscoe; 02-19-2013 at 04:30 PM.

  19. #1044
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    Hi everybody, new to the board, and I read the last 15 pages of this thread (working my way backwards).

    I've used this trick that works great for me: Do you know those heavy duty plastic bands that office supply companies wrap around heavy reams of paper to hold them in place? Cut those bands making an angle at each end. This allows you to easily slip the band around the eyewire and easily remove or install a semi rim lens.

    I've been an optician for less than a year, but this field is very fascinating to me. Many of these tips wil be beneficial when dispensing.

    What a great forum. Thanks for all the tips!

  20. #1045
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    [/QUOTE]I use ladies tights (socks) on the waste hose of the edger. It filters a lot of waste that the manufacturer filters may miss. It will keep the water in your pump tank a lot cleaner or if your edger is connected to a waste drain it will prevent some waste going down the drain.[/QUOTE]

    We found that the black ones seem to have a finer mesh than the natural color. Got a pkg by chance one day and they seem to work better.

  21. #1046
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    Is there a technique for smoothing out scratches or melted acetate? I have read that acetone works for smoothing out plastic frames. I have a pair of vintage frames which I recently bought and it looks like someone tried to adjust the temple at the hinge with a lighter.

  22. #1047
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    Redhot Jumper Never try to fix a plastic frame surface with acetone................................

    Never try to fix a plastic frame surface with acetone. The proper way is to use fine sand paper to get rid of the scratches, and then buff the surface on a buffer using some white polishing compound.

  23. #1048
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    We use clear plastic shrink tubing. You can get it from Hilco in a variety of sizes. It slides over the temple, and shrinks with heat. This product also works great to repair a broken hinge.

  24. #1049
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randle Tibbs, ABOM View Post
    since you are apparently new to the industry and some of the lingo may be unfamiliar to you, i would recommend purchasing "System for Ophthalmic Dispensing" by Clifford Brooks and Irvin Boorish. It is essentially a step by step instruction book with great illustrations as well.
    You may also want to check out the resources section of OptiBoard , there are some really great resources listed.

    Randle
    Absolutely. I first got this book in my first semester in Opticianry school and it goes into great detail on adjustments, frame materials, lens materials, and helpful tips on adjusting all types of frames. I forget how much I paid but it was well worth it

  25. #1050
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyeslv View Post

    We use clear plastic shrink tubing. You can get it from Hilco in a variety of sizes. It slides over the temple, and shrinks with heat. This product also works great to repair a broken hinge.



    ..........................this sounds like repairing a punched hole in the tire of the car by putting a screw into the hole

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