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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #26
    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    This thread is soon going to get so long you are going to have to check it hourly! What a
    GREAT idea. For all of you "older"folks this kind of reminds me of the articles Ralph Drew used to write in the old Optical Index.If you are asking "Who's Ralph Drew? , you haven't been around as long as I have.(1959)

    As for wrong size screws, or replacement screws, Hilco makes a series called Tap and Snap, and I have always been able to find a suitable screw to use.You have to buy the whole tray however.
    From the Cape, best wishes to all

    ------------------
    Harry J

    [This message has been edited by hcjilson (edited 11-03-2000).]

  2. #27
    RETIRED JRS's Avatar
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    Yes sir - remember those articles very well. (1965 for me)

  3. #28
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    Many times people will say they don't want a bifocal,etc. in their sunwear,"just use them to drive". please help them consider that if they need them at all, they need them in their sunwear. they go through the drive thru at their bank, they may need to read when out doors in bright sun, they read a road map, use a car phone, want to see their guages,etc, they need their near adds, they'll thank you for making this strong recommendation, or they'll come back later asking why you didn't warn them, and have to go through the expense of redoing the lenses and wasting the sv ones.

  4. #29
    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    Dear Al, My brother has has some success with the stick on segs.The go on like a press on prism.He gets a good price for them and because of the inherent nature of that product to be temporary at best, generally winds up selling an additional pair of bifocals.


    ------------------
    Harry J

  5. #30
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    I've been out of the country for a while and missed some postings, but I just realized that Steve changed me from "insane poster" to "optiboardaholic". Is there a 12 step program for this? I need to have enough "work" to keep me busy! Cold turkey would be good( did that with tobacco), but this is way more addictive, and it's cheap! And it's keeping out of some of those "bad" internet sites. What's the next level up, Steve?

  6. #31
    Master OptiBoarder
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    Originally posted by hcjilson:

    As for wrong size screws, or replacement screws, Hilco makes a series called Tap and Snap, and I have always been able to find a suitable screw to use.You have to buy the whole tray however.
    We use these so my tip of the day, from bitter personal experience, would be -
    Don't drop the tray of screws on the floor, or else everyone who has to change a screw will swear at you until the new batch arrives. :)



    ------------------
    Maria "no amusing quote" K

  7. #32
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    Maria, several years ago, someone in the lab thought it would be cool to mix all of the screws together in one tray, so they'd all be in one place instead of in a bunch of little seperate places. I don't think they're here any more.

  8. #33
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    JRS, while i agree with what you have to say about wire frames, and we take the apropiate steps to not have it happen, the fact remains that the natural tendency of the wire is to straighten it self no matter what you do. As far as the peanut oil, i cant really say as its never produced a problem. As far as the antifreeze goes, i have seen some labs mix it in as a coolant in the dye units, which is where i used the peanut oil.

  9. #34
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    A little tip for your tools , especially your screwdrivers. If you want to keep them sterile so you dont pick up a germ when you slip and stab yourself, as we all have, keep them sitting in hydrogen peroxide while there not being used.

  10. #35
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    Here is a simple tip for replacing rimless cord. 1) Thread the cord into the nasal side first. 2) Position the lens in the frame and pull the cord around until it touches the metal eyewire on the temple side. 3) Cut the cord at the point that it meets the eyewire. 4) Thread the cord into the temple side and mount the lens.
    This technique has always worked for us and seems to provide the correct amount of tension without the hassle of trying to "pull and fit".
    Also almost any lens that has a proper safety bevel should not chip or flake when inserted or removed. For rimless mounts we always put a safety bevel on both the front and back.
    For rimless three piece mounts it also helps to use a rounded dremel tool bit to put a safety bevel on the drilled holes, both front and back side, by twisting the bit by hand.
    Hope this helps.

  11. #36
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    Confused

    Useing antifreeze as a coolant can eat the coils out of the dye unit . I have such a machine which was misused before I purchased it and has one side of the coil eaten away.


  12. #37

    Thumbs up

    I am no chemist, but I can't imagine that using anti-freeze in a dye unit is a good thing for your health....(Beta Chem?? Help me out here)....I would suggest just using heat transfer fluid and getting the proper ventilation to eliminate the smell from that and the dye and UV. I have a 9 pot unit, 6 pot unit, and a BIG UV tank and never smell any of it.....I designed a vent system that not only pulls the smell out, but pulls it AWAY from the operator as well. (this will get you brownie points with OSHA)

    **If you use the screwdriver blades that are small on one side and larger on the other....... and think the small one is TOO small, but the big one is TOO big and scrapes the heck out of the barrel on alot of frames.....try knocking the pointed edges off of the big blade with a file just slightly at a 45 degree angle......now you can use it on about 90% of screws and it bites better than the small one.....keeps it from slipping out as much and destroying your fingers......we all know how much that hurts!!!!


  13. #38
    Sawptician PAkev's Avatar
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    Attaching temples with spring hinges was one of my first biggest challenges as an optician. My mentor taught me two little tricks which usually got this job done.

    1 - Take a push Pin (the colored ones with a little plastic knob work best) and insert it through the bottom threaded hole while applying pressure on the hinge plate. Then just align the holes while inserting the temple screw from the top as you slowly remove the push pin.

    2 - Take a small screw and place it on the bench with the threaded side up. With the hinge pisitioned downward pull tension on the hinge plate with needle nose pliers while holding the long side of the temple. The hinge plate will open up to form a small gap. Place this gap over the screw sticking up and then carefully release the hinge plate with the pliers. At this point the screw will be wedged in the gap with an extended hinge plate. This extra distance will afford you enough space to put the appropriate screw in and attach the temple to the frame.

    Kevin

  14. #39
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    With ref. to moderate plus lenses in metal frames...one of the reasons I like the Optronics Horizon III (which I'm still trying to sell) and my new 6E is that on these plus lenses, you can run the bevel on the lens on a flatter curve that the frame and lens base curves; makes a nicer looking job and doesn't torque the frame. i.e lens base curve 8.25, frame base 6.00, cut the lens bevel at 5.00 curve.

  15. #40
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Try this as one of many methods to keep screws from backing out. As you all know almost any metal frame when you back out the screw tends to spring apart. I always take the frame and lightly bend the eyewires until the barrels meet together with no gap. Now when you screw it together not only will it go together easier, but there is no tension on the screw from the eyewire. Add a little loctite and you wont see that patient in for a missing screw very often.

  16. #41
    Bad address email on file stephanie's Avatar
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    Arrow

    Hi Al, I am an optiboardaholic also but apparently(go to just conversation and read) I went through the optiboard 12 step program and I think I am doing quite well. I am doing well right Pete??? I am not always sure so I have to check the optiboard to find out!!
    Have a great weekend!!
    Steph

  17. #42
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    A couple of tips...

    For stubborn screws, try placing the frame in the ultrasionic cleaner for several minutes before attempting to remove the screw.

    Also, by placing a 'dab' of clear fingernail polish to the threads of the screws before inserting, you not only keep the screw from working itself out, but it also keeps it sealed so corrosion doesn't have a chance to take place and the screws can be removed much easier later.

    Also, on a broken zyl frame, try soaking each broken side in acetone to soften, line the frame back and use rubber bands to hold in place. Several hours later, remove the rubber band and lightly file the repaired area and buff or lightly rub with acetone to smooth out and add luster.

    Lastly... a good alternative for anti-freeze, peanut oil and heat transfer fluid in the dye pot, is to use glycerin. It is the carrier used for mixing cough syrups and is also used on the silver screen to help induce tears in actors. It is available at most pharmacies. We have used it for years with great results.

    Keep this 'good thang' going.

  18. #43
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    Question

    What's your favorite method of soldering? Gas or electric. Which do you feel is least destructive to frame? What gives the best union?

    Anyone know of any ancient or modern books on frame manufacture, coloring ,repair?


  19. #44
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    Exclamation

    For CAJ2020 and anyone else interested. Glass etching acid (Phosphoric, I think) can cause a sore that will not heal. It can also do NASTY STUFF to the eye. Use rubber gloves, eye protection (and I don't usually bother with either for most of the stuff that frightens OSHA), but this stuff deserves RESPECT!

    Chip

  20. #45
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    On the subject of spring hinges. Self-aligning temple screws are wonderful. They come with their own little aligning pin on the end - no more tension headaches from attaching temples.

  21. #46
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Heres a tip for all you using a glass generator with pella oil. To prolong diamond life and keep the oil cleaner, attach a burlap bag to the discharge hose. Most of the glass will catch in the bag. Also makes it faster and easier to clean out the tank.

  22. #47
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Heres a tip on the easist way to overcome the statement you hear almost every day in optical shops. Patient walks in you approach them and they reply,"i,m just looking". Undersatnd the reason there saying that is there afraid your going to push something on them right off the bat. Instead of agreeing and walking away, with the famous ,call me when you need me, simply say, do you know about our special, or our sale, or something to that effect. Invariably it will peak there interest and they will start talking to you, and now you can find out what there needs are. works almost every time

  23. #48
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    I sure would like to see some more of you out there put some tips on this thread. What say Bob Rihl, Al, Darris,

  24. #49
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    Thumbs up

    I especially like to hear different selling tips. Harry's suggestion about mentioning sales or specials is a good idea.
    The way we phrase what we say is very important. Something as simple as saying to a potential patient who just walked in (How can I help you?) verus (Can I help you?). It makes a difference. It's to easy for the patient to say no. By asking (How can I help you?) they don't have the word no as an option.
    I would like to hear more suggestions and ideas regarding selling. While we like to think of ourselves as professional opticians, we also have to be salespeople.

  25. #50
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    This thread is sooo cool!!!
    For removing tight lenses from nylon cord mountings . . .
    5 seconds in the salt pan. More or less depending on temp. A slight tug and its out.
    For lenses too loose, remove lenses, hit the salt pan 5 - 10 seconds, and let the cord air cool, maybe a little wind. It'll shrink a little.
    Don't heat the cord near the thread holes cause everything I just said goes down the pooper!
    Happy T,X, and NY to all!

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